JimErn

Cindi I had a sound like that on a different brand. Look under the table as the machine is running, at the lower blade clamp area, as you increase the speed, mine was knocking on a blade guard but only at higher speeds like yours. Once you see how the arm moves down there you can touch different parts to see if you can alter the knocking sound, if so you found it.

I expect you know that if you create an account at CL, you can enter search terms, and every new post with those terms will show up in your email. Check face book too. In our area we have facebook based garage sales, marketplace, we even have a FB recycle where if you just want it hauled off, post it and someone will want it and get it.

Very nice work. I especially like the trivet. Everyone says straight lines are the hardest in scroll sawing, but curved parallel lines are even harder in my experience - kudo's.

Very nice clean cutting

Consider a bar stool, one with a back

The issue with a bench like that is power. You wither have to put the main power plugs on the carousel part and have one cord down through the bottom to the wall, or visa versa. Either way, there has to be enough slack so the table can turn and twist the incoming power lead(s), and at some point that might well be a problem. Unless those plans include a slip ring assembly source for 120vac In that pic the whole shop has no dust, makes me wonder if it is actually used

So how does it cut? the cut line should be the same size (thickness) as the blade being used. Is it a straight line or is there wobbles? It could be that what you see with no load on the blade is just immaterial to what the saw meant for..

Wow, 12" and I thought my 4" was high. I too find it easier to see the line with the table tilted and have not experienced the "sliding" of the work piece. Your shop space should work for you, as said elbows at a 90 degree position is the most common starting point, experiment from there - whatever is comfortable to you is what is right. Very few of my friends find it comfortable to work in my shop for any length of time, I am 6'4" and my work benches, table saw, etc etc are all higher than "normal."

Very very nice

In print try using any graphics program, and try using the fill/bucket function to change the color or contrast. Try gray for black, or a pastel color On screen about all you can do is try adjusting contrast and brightness on the monitor

Thanks Jim, I'll keep it in mind. If you go on a spring cleaning craze and start tossing stuff, let me know first. Russ, ROFL, I alternate between Coors and Coors Light so both are in stock usually. Long Necks of course. Mom bought a new refrigerator back in '61 when we came back from being stationed overseas, it still works and is now the refreshment refrigerator out in the garage. Turns out my buddy is buying storage units, he got one for $100 and the scroll saw was in it.

Friend drops by and says hey, I have an old scroll saw in the truck, yours for $20 and beer. Done! Edit - it works too

I thought I knew what fractal figures were, sorry I do not see it in this beautiful piece, could you explain? What kind of wood is that? Again, beautiful work

I buy sanding discs for my bench top 8" sander, and just use them on the 6" orbital. The outer edge of the disc when on the smaller sander lifts up when in use and does not snag on any of the fret work

Very ingenious. I thought of several ways to hold the ball, but none as simple and elegant as yours, thanks so much for sharing.

Super nice layout and cutting.

All good advice and as new as I am to this hobby I probably should not chime in. When I stack cut I use hot glue along the edges of the stack, just works better for me than taping the edges. I had that bleed kind of thing once, the next time I put pieces of wax paper between each piece in the stack, that worked for me.

Yes that is what I meant, the jig to hold the pool ball while drilling.

Stunned is the only thing that describes my reaction, amazing work. I can't imagine the hours of cutting much less the sanding and finishing to get perfection like that - wow! I would love to see the jig or whatever you use for cutting the relief in the pool ball.

Very nice cutting and I really like the presentation, kudo's

A friend did something like that long ago, from his experience I suggest that the hole that the removable pin goes in have a metal pipe as the lining of the hole. The tighter the fit the better. Over time the drilled wood hole enlarged from use and vibration.

Beautiful, just beautiful

I totally agree that blade clamping design and access could be better, and I am sure that some (in fact I know one) have been frustrated and pushed the saw off to the side. But if you look at it from the corporation view, they are in business to add to the bottom line, and selling a starter saw with the highest margin is the way to go. Will the customer come back and buy another? Do you really think they care? They know that in today's world brand loyalty is a thing of the past for the general population. Is there anyone here who has only one brand of power tools in their shop? There isn't even brand loyalty for disposable blades, many here really like the FD line, yet a recent thread about the Pegasus MG blade found some saying things like, I need to try those. I'm fairly new to this hobby, I started with a Porter Cable from Home Depot and lucked into a used Ex-21 that I use now. But I have to tell you that from a newbie point of view, the lower blade clamping design is just as awkward for me one to the other, the Ex is slightly easier, but still needs something better.

Wow, awesome

Beautiful work, no way to tell that two people did the work. My prayers are with you and your father.