Jim Blume

We are in good company then.

I am happy to see that I still do this all wrong.

No, you are not the oddball. I see these methods being touted all the time and since I have been scrolling for, well let's just say a couple of years, and although I tried those methods, I find no appreciable difference, and essentially save steps and money simply using a repositioning adhesive to affix my patterns to the project. I do lightly sand the top piece though which helps the adhesive to better bond. I am not simply a sceptic either. Whenever I see a new method or idea, I do give it a fair test to see if it works. I did that and found it to be a complete waste of my time and money. As to lubricating the blades as some say, I find the opposite. I do use blue painter's tape on the edges when stack sawing to hold the pieces together, and when I hit some of that tape, I notice it being harder/slower to cut. Slower means friction to me and what dulls blades in my opinion is heat. But, as I will always say, people should do whatever works for them. And I will never say that this way or that is best. What's best is what works for each person. I am sure some will disagree, and that of course is the way of the world. Regardless, enjoy the journey.

Thanks Barb. Now I'll be thinking about that all day. LOL

Now and again any blade manufacturer will have some problems with tempering blades. But this doesn't sound to be the case here. There are many reasons for a blade dulling quickly, but it basically all comes down to heat. Hard or pitchy woods with too small a blade or running your saw at too high a speed will produce friction, thus heat and a loss of tempering. Pushing too hard will do the same thing. The idea is to let the blade do the work, and if it is too slow for your tastes, find a different blade perhaps. I cut 4 stacks in most things using 1/8" Baltic Birch, and my go to blades are FD Ultra Reverse # 1. 3 and 5. For example, cutting ornaments with a dozen or so holes, I can do 3 or 4 ornaments with each blade. The blades are dull to me when I can't "feather the edges" to line up the beginning with the end of a cut. White the blade still cuts, the set iss gone and therefore I chuck it. Some folks try to save blades and keep using them beyond what I do. But when blades are purchased by the gross, the cost per blade is less than 25 cents each. There are many suggestions on this thread and hopefully one if us mentioned something that will help you. Good luck, and remember, what I or anyone else does is only offered as a possibility. What you end up deciding for yourself is best....for you. And that comes with a bit of trial and error.

Great job on that for sure. Love it. I have that image, from a movie poster and was about halfway through making it into a viable scrollsaw pattern. Looks like someone beat me to it. LOL

That came out beautiful. Well done all around.

Stunning. Here is the pattern to make it easier to find than digging through the files.

Heirloom piece for certain. Well done.

I was paying 15 a sheet last year and 35 a few weeks ago. But in perspective, everything else has gone up as well. Too bad we can't raise our prices like that. But I won't quit my work. I just find ways of being more efficient to offset the costs increases.

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder they say. Did you enjoy your time making them? Win Win.

Stunning workmanship for sure.

Spectacular.

An amazing job on that pattern. Thanks for sharing your work. Keeps me motivated to cut more.

Check "Default Printer"

I get the little guide marks on the multiple pages using Adobe Reader. Not sure about other programs. The guide marks sure help to line up the multiple pages on the larger patterns. Some program I used prior to Adobe didn't have them and it was hard...at least for me. I cut most of what I cut with straight blades. Been using them for, ah, let's just say a few years, so I'm used to them and I like the crispness I get. I only use spirals for extremely large pieces.

Which pattern? I'll check to see what size I posted it.

I really love what you did there. I have a fondness for paper cut patterns, but when I modify them to make them scrollsaw friendly, they are the same in regards to close and narrow lines. But again, If I cut that I would certainly be proud to call it my own.

Great job all around, Guaranteed you have more patience than I to do all those colors underneath. But the results are certainly worth the effort.

Her you go DakOta52. I did both the patterns. I'm going to do the cropped version on a piece of live edge cherry, and only have 12" in width to work with. As to changing the color on Inkscape, I believe the problem was that the pattern was in gray. I just tried it and had to fist changed the pattern to black and then when I loaded it on Inkscape, I could change it to red. This computer and technology stuff keeps me realizing why I need my grandchildren to help me do things with my phone.

I'll send it to you in red. Also, if you download Adobe Reader, you can print any sized pattern although it will be in sections with guide marks so you can line up the sections. Let me get that to you in red. BRB.

I put up all of the Americana Series patterns I could find earlier today. Enjoy the ones you like. Also, if you have any other ideas or images you would like to see made scrollable. don't hesitate to reach out. Happy to assist where and when I can.

I wouldn't have even tried that pattern at 8 1/2 X 11. I cut it at 11 X 14 and it was 385 cuts with some of them being pretty tight as it was. You Da Man Brent.

YES. Keeping up with the Honey Do List is essential to one's survival. I'm retired so I was thinking I'd have more time to work in the shop. Sadly however, my Honey Do List has turned into a scroll, a never ending one too. LOL We don't have snakes up here nor grass this time of year, but I'm getting tired of shoveling snow. It's keeping me from working in my shop.

I'll make sure I get them all to you. I may have not loaded them all up in the files here.