Jump to content

jollyred

SSV Patron
  • Posts

    869
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by jollyred

  1. Like Sycamore67 I use a drafting chair for scrolling, and other things I need to sit while working on. I worked as a drafter for many years, and can vouch for the comfort of these types of stools. Tom
  2. Made this several years ago, using the technique you suggest. It is from one board, except the claws and branch are from a different piece of wood. I used poplar, and about 4 different shades of brown stain and some yellow, black and white paint. Tom
  3. Put a screw eye in one of the sides which will not be visible when assembled. Use this and a bent wire hook to hold the piece up while painting. Won't have to touch it once it is hung up, and all painted sides can be done at once. Tom
  4. That is the first intarsia I cut, back in 1996, from a pattern in Scroll Saw Woodworks and Crafts. I cut it entirely from western red cedar. Looks like you did a good job on it. Tom
  5. A different idea is to glue the pendulum to the back of the frame, with spacers to hold it out. Then the acrylic could be nailed or screwed to the back of the front frame. Would also look more realistic. Tom
  6. Very nice. I gave my wife that one last year. It was well received and I am sure yours will be also.. Tom
  7. Not sure, but that might be a drip to keep the blade cooler while sawing metals Tom
  8. I haven't bought wheels in a while but bought a bunch when I did. I now have enough that I should never have to make the smaller sizes anymore. I will make larger wheels or custom wheels if needed, since there are not many to make. By the time you consider the time required to make them, you are probably ahead of the game to buy ready made wheels. Tom
  9. Looks good to me. The best black "stain" I've found is India ink. Tom
  10. I have heard of people making a belt by wrapping twine around the pulleys till a nice belt is formed. They say these can last for a long time. I think they also wrap twine around the cords to keep them together. I would keep any knots on the outside of the belt for a smoother turn. It would at least let you get some time in on the saw. Looks like it would be a lot of fun and a good leg work out to use it. Tom
  11. Built one for my first scroll saw and lathe. Worked well but had to give it up when I got a bigger lathe and scroll saw. Decided to build separate stand with wheels so I could move the one I wasn't using out of the way. Still have the scroll saw on the stand that flips, but it is now on wheels and isn't flipped. Tom
  12. Looking at the reviews on it, this is just the same as the birch plywood from the box stores. There is one ply for the core, and one reviewer said the core is fir. Tom
  13. Good idea. Tom
  14. Made this for my cousin, who is really into Halloween. In case you can't tell, it is Dracugnome. I made the pattern from a clip art drawing, which I modified for scroll sawing. The paint is acrylic craft paint and was applied with my airbrush and a paint brush for the details.
  15. The way to get a glass like finish with shellac is called "French polish", and it is a bit of work. Don't think you can get it with an airbrush. Tom
  16. Waste of good Vodka! Any alcohol will work, I use 91% rubbing alcohol. Lots cheaper and not drinkable. Also, why run the Vodka through the air hose? Tom
  17. Scrappile, I think he paints the spoons black to use as a base for checking other paints. The color under some paints will affect the hue of the covering paint. White will make the top paint brighter and black will make it darker. A lot of paints are not opaque, so this can make a difference. Tom
  18. I am getting rid of most of my spray cans and using the Harbor Freight Quick Change airbrush in place of them. I think the "regular" airbrushes have too small a paint cup to cover much area with one filling, so you are constantly stopping to add paint. Also, one of the important parts of using an airbrush is keeping it clean. The HF Quick Change airbrush only needs the bottle cleaned, the other parts of it never touch paint. Most importantly, the learning curve is much shorter. Here is a YouTube video on using one. (1) Scale Model Tips - Testing Harbor Freight's $10 Airbrush - Is It Any Good?? - YouTube I also have a "regular" airbrush that I use on more detailed and smaller work. But I still use brushes sometimes. LOL Tom
  19. I use this stand for my Kindle tablet every day. Made it last year. Tom
  20. I think you might consider coloring it. That could mask the difference in the color of the surface. Otherwise, looks like a good pattern. Might seem kind of obvious, but you could cut it again using the suggestions above. Tom
  21. Nice work. I recently needed a decal for a BMW motorcycle plaque. The cycle was their first production model, so I needed the logo from then. They have had several over the years. So, I looked it up on the internet and printed it in color to the size I needed. I then pasted it to a piece of 1/8" BB plywood, covered it with Hodge Podge, and cut around the perimeter. This was glued to the plaque. Worked really well. You might try that for your team's logo. Tom
  22. Made this for my grandson, who is on the Havana Ducks basketball team this year. All cut on the scroll saw, with 3/4" poplar for the body and 6mm BB for the wings. Finished with craft acrylics, but still needs the final clear coat. I have a lot more to make, and I don't work very hard at them, so it takes a while. Tom Havana duck movie.mp4
  23. I have about 3 projects in various stages at this time. Work on them a little bit at a time. Still have to rush the last week before Christmas. When you have 4 grandchildren and 5 great grandchildren, it takes a while to go through the list. Tom
  24. Nice idea. Do you prepare the edges before painting to get a more even finish. I always get a different look from each layer of the plywood. I usually use a coat of Elmer's school glue as a sort of gesso to prepare the edges. I think it looks better when it is more even. Tom
  25. I think you would be better off to cover the aluminum, maybe with one of the magnetic covers such as the one sold by Seyco. To keep the cast iron on my DW788 from getting on my projects, I covered it with a piece of tempered Masonite. The Masonite was coated with a couple of coats of polyurethane, then waxed. This also is a lot slicker than the original table, which makes moving the piece easier. Tom
×
×
  • Create New...