jollyred
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Everything posted by jollyred
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Lots of brownie points in that one. Tom
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I have heard that using a wood burner to outline the area to be stained will block the stain from spreading. I guess the burner "cauterizes" the wood pores to stop the stain from wicking to other parts of the wood. I haven't done it myself, so cannot guarantee it will work. It should also work with water colors. Tom
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I release the tension and raise the upper arm on my DW788 every time, This leaves it ready for the next project which usually have an inside hole to cut. Tom
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You are going to like that cutter. I made one from his pattern, with a few modifications, and use it regularly. My change was to make the cutting platform shorter, for easier storage. I also used an aluminum bar for the cutting guide. I know how easy it is for me to damage a wood straight edge with a sharp knife. Tom
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Welcome to the Village. Lots of good information and some friendly people here. Two things are required on this forum; ask lots of questions and show pictures. Didn't happen if no pictures. Tom
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I could be completely wrong, but the only thing I can think of is a hole saw. Tom
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I carved a walnut shell once. Made a little owl on it, glued a pin to the back and gave it to my wife. She promptly lost it. Tom
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Check the member's map in the Community forum. You can also check the member's activity to see if they are currently active. Tom
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You can make the frames by using tape at the corners to hold them together before putting on the clamps. This is a trick used in box making to hold the corners together. Lay the outside edge of one of the frame members on the sticky side of a piece of tape, with some of the tape extending out. Then put the next one against it, then tape to the rest of the frame in the same manner. Leave the last piece of tape sticking out. Put the glue on the joints and kind of roll up the frame so the joints are together. This will hold the frame together while you get the clamps on. Or just put staples in the back or nails into the joint to hold it without clamping. Hope you can make sense of this. Tom
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This is a cheap plastic cyclone, direct from China. Tom
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All I did to the bottle is cut a hole in the bottom to fit over the output side of the vac. Then I used hot melt glue to attach it to the vac. I measured the decibels on the vac before and after, and got a drop of 8 decibels, which is supposed to be a drop of half the volume. The decibels were read on an app on my phone, so don't know how precise they are. This was suggested to me by Ray, and it works. Tom
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Your experience is showing. I'm only 72, but hope to be as good as you by the time I get to 80. Tom -
Here's a photo of my setup for dust collection on the DW 788. The stand I have had for a lot of years, and is on casters to roll around where I want to use it. The vac is a Metro Vac 'n blo, with a plastic bottle to act as a muffler. It is connected to the mini cyclone, which is fitted to a 6" pvc pipe I liberated from a construction job a long time ago. Turned a bottom for it on the lathe, and used a pvc cap for the top. This is all connected to a scrollnado dust collector. I have been sawing on mdf lately and this really catches a lot of the dust from that, so I know it will do a great job on wood and plywood. Tom
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Into the recycle bin. Tom
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I'm retired so that would be handy for me all year long. Thanks. Tom
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I like all of your projects, but really like the dragon on the paper towel holder. Could you tell me where you got the pattern? Thanks. Tom
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If cleaning the clamps doesn't help, I just looked at ereplacementparts. com and they have some in stock. They are about $20 plus shipping. Tom
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Nice to see the combination of scrolling and carving. Great job. Tom
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Adds extra fun to a project when it is your own pattern. Good job on all of them Tom
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That one has a high pucker factor, but you pulled it off. Thanks for showing. Tom
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Try sealing or finishing the backs before cutting. Don't know if your table is rough enough to abrade the finish or not. If it is, you could use a piece of tempered hardboard double face taped to the top of the table to cut on. If tempered hardboard is waxed, the wood will slide over it very easily, without abrading the finish. I put some on my DW788 and also put a couple of coats of polyurethane on it. When waxed, it is almost too smooth and easy to move the piece being cut. Tom
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Interesting bowl and very nice inlay. As far as the mineral oil and wax, it is not a durable finish. If the bowl is used much it will need refinished. I do this on some wooden kitchenware, and all you need to do is rub some on the bowl (I use my hand to apply it, it is actually good for your hands), let it set for a while, then buff it up. Tom
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Sacrificial backer for thin projects
jollyred replied to Crosstimbers's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Guess I'm the weird one here, I use the same size and style of blade I would normally use, but go slow on the speed. I don't need to cut fast, so I don't worry about having the saw at a high speed. -
My drafting stool does that also, so I cut a length of pvc pipe to fit around the upright. Now the pipe keeps the seat at the right height. Tom
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My profession was a draftsman, and I did manual drafting for about 30 years, till I had to learn to use a computer to do drafting. So I am used to a stool that is high enough to allow you to stand or sit at the drafting board while working. So when I built my workbench, I made it the height I kept my drafting table and used a drafting stool at it. When I got my lathe and scroll saw, I made the table for them high enough to use the same drafting stool. Now that I can't stand for any length of time, this works real well for me. Tom
