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John B

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Everything posted by John B

  1. I have completed 36 stand up puzzles to add to the cache. These are 4 new designs that I have cut from 30mm Radiata Pine, using Olson #7 Mach for outside cuts and a Olson PG #5 for inside cuts Two coats of gloss lacquer over acrylic paint. Boats 170 x 150mm. Cat 215 x 130mm, Utes 230 x 100mm, 3 little pigs 220 x 170mm
  2. I would be a supporter of The Wooden teddy Bear as they sell Flying Dutchman and Olson blades. Their service is top notch and they also have a very reasonable priced range of other items, hardware and patterns that would interest a scroll sawyer https://woodenteddybear.com/
  3. Your own fault Kevin, You should never, let the smoke out:
  4. I have 2 pedestal drills. My old one I use for sanding mops and home made drums. It's an 18 speed, but I changing belts for various jobs gets a bit beyond the joke after awhile, So I got a variable speed unit which I use for just about everything else. It has a light and and laser pointer, which is pretty useless as the drill bit points to where the hole is going to be anyhow. A pic of my new (Newer) Pedestal. I like the free standing units as I don't have to find bench space to place them.
  5. I like Roger Miller, but have never heard this one Charlie. I like this one, You have probably heard it, but this version is by Slim
  6. Wow, I'm not alone when it comes to Xmas songs, I like them too, Not so much the carols. BTW good job on the key rings and good on you for delivering meals on wheels.
  7. I agree. sort of like a fine rasp. I find I do this a lot when using spirals to straighten cuts take a little more off etc.
  8. I use FD modified spirals, still get fuzzies but not as many as other spirals. I also find them easier to control. Spirals are good for texts, but I find you have to be careful when their are narrow bridges as they can break the them out. For example I am currently stack cutting 2 portraits and the rear one is buggered as a bridge was broken out.
  9. It is below considered safe levels, lots of things we use have formaldehyde in them, Particle board, Plywood, mdf etc
  10. Another tip, that I use that may help a few members. For small items such as Xmas Tree Decos, or small sections of an item that requires a bit of colour, I use Nail Polish, What's left after I do my nails There are some fantastic metallics and glitters available in nail polish and if you go to the discount shops you can pick up pots from 50c each. Another good source is chemist shops when they are getting rid of unwanted stock and have a tub full discounted. If the polish is a bit thick a few drops of lacquer thinner fixes that.
  11. Top of the Wazza Charlie
  12. A nice varied selection Frank. I tend to do the same with my framing, wait until i have a few before doing them.
  13. Excellent. So glad you are having success.
  14. Congratulations on a job well done Dick. They are real nice. Now sit back, grab a beer and relax.
  15. I vary my approach, Some times I cut freehand and cut various shapes and whimsies, other times (Especially if there are a lot of pieces) I use a pattern. You really only need to do a search for "Jigsaw Puzzle Templates" and there are plenty. Just grab the one with the most pieces then use how many pieces you need for your puzzles. I print it on thin card, tape the card to the front of the puzzles and away I go. You can either shrink or enlarge the pattern or just use a part of it, once again shrinking or enlarging that part.
  16. Nice work Dick, love the coloured backgrounds.
  17. I think you are probably correct Rodney. I started out using Luan ply from our "Box Store" Bunnings and it presented no end of problems. Even their so called up market They charge like it's the top of the wazza) has veneers so thin you can't even think about sanding them or your through. I truly like that piece mate.
  18. No Barb, It is hidden until the puzzle is taken apart. I also try and put the hole in the thickest, unseen place so as not to weaken the puzzle.
  19. I also use dowels Bob,, When I mad name trains I would place all of the letters on dowels to spray. I have boards piled up with holes for various sizes I must post a pic of my wheel painting machine one day.
  20. Kevin, I cut these with a #5 as they are kiddies puzzles so need to fit easily. The trick with painting the surfaces that come together is not to apply the paint thickly and to ensure that there is no build up on the edges. I did run into that problem once when cutting a rather intricate design and used a #3, it made some bits a little tight, but working them in and out a few times loosened everything up. Another factor is the bloom, I knock this back with 220 paper and only second coat the exterior.
  21. I was going to make a couple of napkin holders, reckon I missed the boat
  22. This is the method I use to paint my Stand up Puzzle pieces. It may come in handy to somebody sometime. I have lengths of 4mm steel rod, cut at about 100mm (4"). I drill a hole into the puzzle piece where it wont be seen, insert the rod and by holding it, I can easily paint all around the piece. Then place it in a hole on a board to dry. If I'm doing a lot my hand get a bit tired holding onto the thin rod, so I use Vice grips. Makes it easy. I also use this method when spraying small items.
  23. These are the ones I use in my shed Charlie. The only downside is you have to alter the volume on your phone. These are the ones I wear for work when using the mower, chainsaw, blower etc
  24. For intricate fretwork I use FDUR #1 and #3 I also have few dozen of the larger sizes. The #5 and #7 cut through the 30mm to 50 mm pine Ok and leave a nice surface. For the thicker timbers I prefer the Olson PGt blades. They cut quicker than the FDUR and still leave a nice surface, however for a blade that lasts and cuts like a hot knife through butter, I don't believe you could go past the Olson Mach blades. The #7 outlasts the FDUR by heaps and even cuts a lot more than a PGT blade, however the finish is not as smooth. As for spiral blades, I like the Flying Dutchman New Spirals, they seem easier to control than other brands. I get my blades from The Wooden Teddy Bear and their gross pricing is pretty good, actually bloody cheap if you compare them to the cost of blades in OZ. They also post quickly and take the time to package the items the least costly way. I also get quite a few other bits and pieces from them at the same time, such as toggle buttons, Clear nylon buffers, picture frame inserts and anything else that catches my eye.
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