John B
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Everything posted by John B
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Looking good Clive. one of the nicest looking train cuttings I have seen. you are just around the cnr from me. Welcome mate.
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The finished item looks gooder than before I do prefer the plain backing as IMHO the burnt grain detracts from the cutting.
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A few beauties Kevin, I like the "Boxer"
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A real beauty Ron,
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I've seen the pencil lead carvings and writing on a grain of rice. That's new to me carving cherry pits.
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If you like you can finish something with water call it done, but it offers no protection, however it may bring out the grain. When doing my apprenticeship and in the "polishing" segment ,a finish was an application that protected the article. Oils and waxes can be a "finish" but they offer little in the way of protection. If the item is going to placed on a shelf in a non dusty area, they would suffice. Dust however does collect and penetrate oil and wax finishes. A true finish seals and protects the item from outside influences such as spills, dust etc and can be wiped and cleaned with no detrimental effect. Any finish that that allows the grain to remain open which includes oils and wax must be reapplied regularly to maintain it's purpose.
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Good stuff Mimi, i especially like the 3d desk plate at the top.
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Nice pattern and cutting. One of my favourite westerns and I like almost all westerns
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What Dan said Tod. Oils can be thought of as a finish eg they are used as a top coat, however they do not seal and make a very soft, non wearing coating. What I believe has happened is the oil has lifted either the stain, but more probably the water based marker and thus has allowed it to be transferred to the nippers hands. I would use a polyurethane, or water based clear top coat or lacquer to seal in the colour and give a durable finish. I personally don't like the water based stains very much, The giraffes puzzle looks nice.
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I have used this technique, on frames eg mitres, but would never use it on furniture without a physical support, such as a joint, dowels etc.
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Les, I use PVA, almost any marked "for wood". Selly's or Parfix Almost all PVA glues are stronger than the timber. Butt joints or end grain can be a problem, but only in where stress is involved. When making frames I usually just staple across the joint on the back and then clamp down flat to a board. If mitres are cut correctly this will give a serviceable and sufficient bond. Sometimes I will use a feather across the cnr, more for decoration, but it adds strength.
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Been there, done that
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Very nice Don. Those spirals take a bit of controlling on thin material!
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My daughter would like that. Super nice cutting
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Very nice and touching pieces
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Super nice. Willie is a great subject, lots of lines and creases from a life lead to it's fullest.
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Looking good Marg. They are one thing I have not tried as of yet. You may of given me inspiration
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looks like you are having a ball
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Some really beaut pieces Ben. The intarsia is fantastic mate. looking forward to seeing some of the new stuff you turn out. Cheers -
Nice piece Les. You had me a bit confused with "Lauan" as the stuff I have seen is much redder, however a little investigation reveals that Lauan is generic name for timber (especially ply) from a variety of trees. It was the 1st ply I used when I started scroll sawing, as it was all that was available, with the exception of MUCH MORE expensive marine grade, witch was also Lauan, just better grade. There is a face side, and this tends to be thicker and won't tear out near as much as the reverse, in my experience.
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I don't know nothing about nothing, but I do like the box. I'm sure it will be big hit.
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A talented couple. Very nice
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Hoping you Kill the Pig.
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I get my blades form an Australian Supplier (manufacturer). Some have hardened teeth, similar to the hand saws you buy these days. They cut pretty good, but you can't sharpen them and you definitely can't set the teeth as they snap.
