FrankEV

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Just learning to use it. Was trying to get some very fine lines but couldn't. Had to speak with my son. He said I needed to lower the pressure. Had not tried that. Still lots still to learn.

Wanted to see if I could do a decent job on a Dog portrait. Found a bunch of stencils and images of various breeds. This Pitbull Portrait with a Heart, caught my eye. I converted it to a scroll Saw Pattern and sized it to fit on an 8x10 Panel. The panel is 5/32” solid core Birch Ply. Using my Air Brush, I painted both the 1/4” BB Ply backer and the cut panel with Artist Acrylic Air Brush paints. The Panel was cut using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. As usual, after painting and assembly the panel was protected with multiple coats of Krylon Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. The panel is mounted in a very inexpensive 8x10 frame I purchased in bulk on Amazon. I think it came out fairly nice, if I have to say so myself! Comments and critiques always welcome. EDIT: I posted the pattern in PATTERN EXCHANGE

Very nice woodworking. A tray for wine and cheese would bube better .

Great job. What is a pencil?

The idea for the cutting is wonderful and I'm sure it will be much appreciated. However, the use of MDF for the cut panel and frame, to me, was a poor choice. If cut and framed in nice looking wood and properly finished, the progect would have been something that would be proud to display for many years to come. Painted MDF will collect dust, is easily marred, and can be affected adversely by humidity over a relatively short time.

They are already cut up and on the burn bin!

I posted, in Bragging Rights, the Individual Tree and Moon project a while ago. This set is a commission project I got for a mirrored set of the B&W Tree and Moon. The cutting for this set was a stack cut 5/32” Birch Solid Core Ply. The painted White Backers are 1/4" BB ply. Why, when you take a commission project, everything that can go wrong will go wrong. So read on only if you want to know my sad story. First time, after cutting was complete (with no cutting problems), the double-stick tape I used left residue on what was to be a finished side of one of the panels. No matter how much cleaning and sanding I did, the tape outline was visible through the paint finish. Then, after what seemed like an eternity for the Black paint to dry, when I clamped the glued-up assemblies in my press, when removed from the press the paint surfaces were marred. Obviously, the paint was not fully cured hard enough. Trying to salvage the work, I sanded the surfaces lightly, to make everything uniform, and applied a Clear Gloss Krylon coating. Again, it was immediately obvious that something was wrong with the combination of finishing materials as the painted surface all bubbled up. Both went to the bin of scraps that will be used in my fire pit this fall. On to a second cutting, again this time with no cutting problems. Made sure there was no tape on the finished panel face. Decided to try using a Black Lacquer Finish instead of Paint for this second set. The lacquer dries much more quickly, but again when the glued-up assemblies came out of the press, the surfaces were again marred slightly. I guess it needed to dry even longer. However, Lacquer is more forgiving, and an application of clear Gloss Lacquer returned the surface to the finish desired. Things were looking good at this point. I had made the floating frames earlier and they are designed to have a 1/8” gap between the panel and frame. The dimensions of the panel and frames are never an exact match as intended, so I usually need to slightly trim the panel to make the 1/8” gap uniform all around. Trimming panel number one and then fitting and mounting it in its frame went perfectly. Not so much with the second piece. While trimming the second panel, I took my eyes off the panel momentarily, and the edge of the panel was slightly gouged by the saw blade. CA glue and sawdust came to the rescue and, with a little black Lacquer touch up I was able to repair the damage. However, while installing the mounting hardware clips on the back side, although the face down panel and frame were lying on a protected surface, a small area of the now finished surface got damaged somehow. With careful sanding and applications of both the Black Lacquer and Clear Gloss Lacquer, I was able to repair the damage. Although I should charge double because I had to make them twice, I will be giving the customer a discount on the price I quoted. If there is a moral to my story, I have not figured it out yet, other than "don't look away while timmimg a finished panel on the table saw".

You can get smaller bits from Danny at Artcrafters. I would have been using a #68 bit and #2/0 spiral blade to cut small fretwork like that. BTW, very nice.

You can get smaller bits from Danny at Artcrafters. I would have been using a #68 bit and #2/0 spiral blade to cut small fretwork like that. BTW, very nice.

Very nice. Nice pattern and great cutting. Where are you able to obtain premade frame material?>

Cutting looks great, but it sure doesn't look like Walnut in the picture. I might have dipped in a stain to enhance the color before finishing. And, correct mr if I'm wrong, but I see fuzzies the mop may have missed. After looking more clossely, I think I was seeing the mat/rug below. I should know bwetter. You would not leave any fuzzies. I personally am not found of thick wood for even Trivets. To me 1/4" thick would would be better, but I realize more delicate also.

My Grandson and his Girlfriend (soon to be wife) are expecting a baby boy in September. When my Grandsons' were born, I was only in my early 40’s and felt I was too young to be called Grandpa so I said just call me Grumps. That has stuck to this day, so now I’m going to be a Great Grumps! I was looking for something to make for them and stumbled across this Stencil that I thought would be perfect. I converted it to a 12” x 18” pattern that I cut in 5/32” Solid Core Birch ply. The cut panel was affixed to an Air Brush painted ¼” x 12 x 18” BB ply Backer. The Pattern is very simple, taking me less than two hours to cut using my go to Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. Painting and drying took a lot longer. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Krylon Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. While the paint dried, I made a Gallery Style Floating Frame constructed out of 3/4" wide Poplar rails and finished with Glidden Max-Flex All Surface spray can Armor (Silver) paint. I will let the Frame paint fully cure for a few days and then get this into the mail by early next week so they can hang it in the Baby Nursery. Yes as always, comments and critiques are welcome.

NIce! Never too early to cut for a hoilday. I'm already cutting a couple of pieces foe Xmas.

Well done! Don't know how you handled it, but for "positive" patterns like this I like to keep the surrounding board in one piece using a drilled hole. I will tape the cut panel to the surrounding wood as I cut the perimeter. This holds delicate piece for you as you cut. I also make my cut panel the exact same size as my backer so I can than use the surrounding wood to locate the cut panel on the backer. That assumes the cut panel is properly located in the first place. I compliment you on placing the image on the backer with a nice balance amount of free space all around. ..KUDOs.

I found this stencil of a pair of tiger cubs that I thought would make a nice cutting. The scroll saw pattern I developed just seemed to look good in an 8x10 format, so I used a piece of 5/32 x 8 x 10 solid core Maple that I mounted on a painted Black 11 x14 x 1/4 thick BB ply Backer. The pattern is relatively simple but has a lot more holes than what I expected at first glance. For the cutting I used Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. This piece gave me an opportunity to practice my skills using the Air Brush to add color. Since, in this case I was adding the color to the cut panel, I removed the pattern with the underlying liner, from only the image area so the remaining pattern paper and liner acted as a mask while I sprayed. Happily, there was no paint bleed under the mask. I’m quite pleased with the results but I’m only beginning to learn and would welcome any comments or suggestions about Air Brush work that would help me improve my skills. How to mix paints to obtain a specific color is top on my learning list. I happened to have this natural Red Oak Frame already made and used it for the picture. Not quite happy with it and thinking I will make a new one, but because I used black for the perimeter area, I’m unsure what color (stain or paint) the frame should be. Suggestions welcome. I'll share the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

Great job on both. The HOG hits close to home as I ride a HD Street Glide and have cut a few MC patterns a while ago. Wish I could find a good pattern of a Batwing Fairing Glide to cut. In reference to your comment about using FD 3/0 spiral. I have tried them and found that they aren't any smaller than the pegas 2/0. In fact the resulting cut is, to my eyes, actualy wider. Enjoy the new saw.

JFI, I also prefer the B&W version. The color version was an experiment. It is OK but not as nice as I was hoping it would turn out. Thanks to all for the replies with a preference noted.

I converted and resized this original White on Black image into two (2) slightly different 11” x 14” Scroll Saw Patterns. Being true to the original, for the first pattern (which I consider a Nighttime view) I simply inverted the image so that the cut out areas, that would show the White, would be Red outlines with grey fill. For the second, using a copy of the first pattern, I reworked the area around the Moon (now to be a Sun) so the image is a Daytime view, which allowed me to add color. The conversion work also included the removal of a lot of unintended bridges created by Inkscape. Since most of the cut panels would be painted, I felt the panel did not have to be the normal better quality solid core ply that I typically use, I decided to stack cut two pieces of 1/8” BB Ply that has been hanging around in my workshop for a very long time. Unfortunately, the stack was bowed slightly which made cutting very difficult. The stack cutting was completed up to a point where the area around the Moon/Sun had to be done. The two panels were then separated, and the areas cut separately. As usual, all cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. For the Nighttime version, the cut panel was primed and painted with Krylon spray can Black and the backer primed and painted with Krylon spray can White. The assembled panel was set into a Painted Black Floating frame. For the Daytime version, both the backer and cut panel were both sealed with a clear Krylon sealer and then painted with Acrylic Artist paints using an Air Brush. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of a Clear Acrylic Protective Coating. The assembled panel was set into my usual 1 3/4” wide Pine Frame that was primed and painted with Glidden Spray Can Max-Flex, Earthy Cane Satin (Glidden likes to use fancy names. This is just a light cream color.). Comments and critiques always welcome.

Here is what I did back in '21. I was wanting to know how long pieces took to cut. Real saw cutting time. After a lot of research I found what I wanted from Grainger. I ordered it a few days ago and it came today and it is now installed on my Pegas saw. It is an L6 series LCD Resetable Hour meter By ENM of Chicago that reads hours and minutes. Yes it is a litlle bit pricey at $71.42 + S&T, but I wanted the simple push button reset. Cheaper models did not have a reset capability which would be fine if you just wanted to know how long the machine was operated for maintenance purposes. After cutting a hole in the side of the Pegas (just needed to take out a piece between two of the existing oval holes) I mounted the provided plastic frame that the meter slips in to. After which I simply cut the black and white wires in the plug wire, stripped them back a short didtance, twisted them together and inserted the black into pin # 1 and the white into Pin #3, tightening down the screws to hold them in place. I reniforced the plug wire behind the meterwith some electrical tape and slipped the unit into the mounted frame. A quick test run produced a one minute indidation to show on the meter. With a push of the button on the front it returned to 0-00. Here are pics: Yes, I did gouge the adjacent metal with the cut off grinder...me bad. This set up only shows saw run time. Actual saw sit time can be once or more as much, depending on number of holes. Threading time is often more that sawing time. I'm adding this comment today. My setup has bee working fine, but I just do not think about reseting it at the beginning of each new project. When I do look it will have quite a few hours recorded. It is interesting to see the cutting time, but I think I need to add a second timer to record just how long I sit at the saw on a given project.

Very nicely done. Great work on Jims patterns that are wonderfuly created and timeless. All they need now is some nice frames.

Thank you for listing the woods you used. With that verity, It kind of makes me wonder how much stock of various woods do you have and how do you obtain such a veriety to choose from? Kowing the price of the various exotic wood available from Ocooch, it must take a fairly large outlay to get started. Would love to know more about this subject. I have not attempted any Intarsia, but it reminds me a lot of work my Dad did many years ago (maybe close to 40 years ago) called Marquetry, with the major difference is that in Intarsia you add depth and sculpture to your work. I know back then he used to buy his vaneers in large variety packs so he had lots and lots of choices. However, I also remember how he would complain that, with all the coices he had, he could not find a piece that gave him the color ot grain he needed. I suspect some of that is the same for your work.

Try sandind to 600 grit. Remove dust well before applying linner. Press gently to remove any bubbles but do not emboss too much with a plastic squeegee or the like. Remove ASAP because the longer it is on the stronger the linner adhesive gets. This may all help but a better grade ply will make a real difference.

Cute! Water color paints could be used if you want to color them. A non-hardening stain and BLO would also work. Any hardening finish, like oil based paint, poly and probably even Lacquer will mess with the flexability. A light coat of Lacquer or Polycrilic finish might work if you can pull and hold the flex cuts apart a little until the coating drys. Have fun.

I found this B&W ‘High Noon Show Down’ image on-line and thought it would be a good Scroll Saw subject. I know there are few fans of Old West among the SVV members that might like it. I understand this is a scene from a movie/series of a while back of the same name. I never watched it. The conversion consisted of no more than resizing and inverting the image, so the cutout areas were red lines with grey fill. Added a few bridges to the pattern and I also found that I needed a few more bridges during cutting. I didn’t count, but there were a lot of holes. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades, except I used a Pegas #1 MGT R for the long straight cuts along the narrow 1/4” wide edges (under the frame rabbet). The cut panel is 5/32” x 11 x 14” solid core Walnut ply that was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/4” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply backer that was left natural. This project is “Old School” - two tone wood, and it took a lot of will power on my part not to try and add color. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Premium Pine rails sealed with non-wax containing Shellac, stained with Minwax Honey Maple Gel-Stain, and finished with two coats of Clear Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Since I have been using Acrylic Paints and Polycrylic finishes recently, I almost forgot how long oil stain and Poly takes to dry - seems like forever. Comments and critiques always welcome. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.