FrankEV

You did not mention what kind of camera you ar using. Phone camera are good but can be difficult to get well framed pics. A decent digital camera will do better and give you more latitude with lighting situations. A simple hanging backdrop in a neutral color {I use light grey}, a set of LED photo lights from Amazon {under $30}, and tripod for the camera is all that is needed. I also use a ring light to supplement the photo lights to knock down shadows, but not always needed. My biggest problem with the light boxes they sell is the inability to hang flat work on the back wall. I want my pics to be framed square and to do so they must be hung.

Nicely done!

I was refering to any frame. Not the panel.

Very, very nice. Red with a little green backer is great. Very well done. What is the source of the second blanks?

Very well done. I just finished cutting two ornament patterns from one stack of six 5/32" thick Maple and Birch scraps. Cutting with Pegas #0 MGT R blades was a very easy. I just pin nailed the 4 corners and applied the pattern with spray adheasive to the top board.

Very nice simple but elequent portrait...well cut. A simple frame would make it a finished piece. What are the panel dimensions (TxWxH) ? Sorry I don't speak metric but I can covert!!! If the wood is a standard photo (eg; 8"x10") or Paper size (eg; A3) you can buy rather inexpensive frames at department stores or craft stores as long as the panel is not too thick to set into the frame rabbet. If not, you can make your own from any nominal 1"x2" or 1"x3" wood (I like Poplar) if you can cut neat 45 degree corners and cut a 1/4"W x 3/8" or 1/2"D rabbet. I do this all on my table saw. A band/strap clamp is needed to hold the frame square while the glue dries. I reinforce my corners with V-nails from the craft store (Hobby Lobby over here). I like the frame rails to be 1 3/4" wide. I rip down 1"x8" boards into four 1 3/4" wide sticks that I use to make my frames. Sand, stain/poly or paint, add a sawtooth hanger and you are are done. Although I do make my own frames, I do try to plan my cut panel sizes to fit standard Photo sizes whenever possible so a commercial store bought frame can be used.

Absolute great job. Voodoo Lounge...very interesting concept!

Just one word: Beautiful!

Very nice work. Yep, taking good pic's of flat work is almost as much work as cutting the panel. Good lighting is key. Very dificult to get proper color reproduction with out proper lighting.

Very nice work and a good conversation starter. While my wife was alive, we always had a minimum of two cats and one dog. Always loved having pets but since I moved to Florida have I gone animal free. At this stage in my life I prefer not to have to worry about the pets when we want to travel.

I too thought the the octagon parts were end grain glued. Yep, I could not make the one piece hoops on a table saw.

Fancy garbage pail ypu have there . Looks great, but you might want to tell this ignorant person what it realy is. Not sure why you are using a scroll saw for the project, seems to me I could make all the parts on my table saw. I'm I missing or not understanding something?

The nativity senes are nice and well cut. I'm just not a fan of dust collectors (my name for multiple layer cutting like those). The horse and owl are great. The colloration (grain or stain??) of the horse is a distraction to me. The Owl would look perfect mounted in a cabin somewhere up north.

A natural stain will richen the natural wood color, or just use a clear lacquer or poly coating. A clear coating will just brighten the wood a little.

Not my type of scroll work. but they are both very well designed and cut. Exclent work!!!!!!

You are welcome. Nicely cut. Mounting is quite unique and very imagative.

FOUND #20, SEE ORIGINAL POST.

S. Good offers on his site the option of purchasing at $1 each (min 5) the patterns for three different ornaments. You reply to him with a list of names/ornament and he sends you back the patterns with the names included for each ornament. He sends you an invoice with his returned patterns. No upfront payment required. The offer was/is in his regular daily emai I get. You can sign up for that email.

This is the one I made with some mods I added for my use. There are many others also.

A Rotary (Dremel) tool with small sanding drums or burr bits work well to smooth inside of cut outs. If you are trying to smooth out "blade wobble" along straight lines, the sanding drums work well, but dont get in close to corners. For small cut outs or into corners, I use very thin burr bits in my Dremel tool wand to clean up a sloppy cut. I don't normally need to sand plain rough blade cuts but for some cases I can see where it mightg be necessary, especially when exposed to view. Needle files and the like are about all you really can use to smooth these type cuts.

Bought 20 of Steves Name Onament PATTERNs to CUT AND give out to family and friends. Cut twenty by stack cutting 5 at a time from scrap 5/32" solid core Maple and Birch ply. While in stack, only cut the basic pattern leaving the enclosed name area uncut. Stack cut only two of the nativity ornament. After all were cut, went back and individually added the pattern for each name. Funny thing is I did cut 20, but as you can see in the pic, there is only 19. NOW 20. Looked everywhere and can not find number 20...have no idea wher I put it FOUND HIM, MUST HAVE JUMPED INTO MY SCRAP PILE...they say "memory is the second thnig that goes when you get old" and I can't even remember what the first thing is! I guess number 20, "Gregory" won't be getting his. HE DID NOT MELT AWAY!!! Front and back painted white with rattle can spray paint. Added colors in Artist Acrylics and coated all with clear gloss Polyurethane. Not my best work and the paint work is sloppy....hopefully they will be hung deep iwithin the branches of their Christmas trees. Enjoy. You are welcome to comment but I'll be my own critic for these. EDITED TO INCLUDE GREGORY #20 And, BTW, now I have to order, cut and paint 10 more....me bad, forgot my ladies family!!

There is high temp paint available, but I think it only comes in Black. I don't really think wood Trivets are intended to be used as a hot pads although they do sell bamboo trivets for that reason. As Kevin said, mayybe just a oil finish would be the best after a fairly long drying time. I know I can stand hot pans directly out of the oven on my cutting boards that are just protected by cutting board oil with out scorching. Edit: Google says oil based varnish and polyurethane is resistant to heat...but I not betting it won't scorch if the pan is toooo hot.

Reading this, monofiliment came into my mind. Almost invisible and very strong.

Xmas ornament wire hanger would work also.

Sorry SW, I think that logic is completely flawed. A simple statement like "I'm cutting portrait patterns in 1/4" ply and looking for what is a good sanding and finishing process?" would have given you a much more set of informative responces. Or, "I'm working on thick solid wood boxes", what sanding and finishing do you suggest. ETC. Both extremes of no details and too many details just make any help this group can offer almost meaningless. You have already jumped to a conclusion that blade selection will eleiminate 'Fuzzies". Think again, there is much more to it than JUST blade selection. In you original post you said you don't like to hand sand. Well, many offered a multitude of options to hand sanding...did you actuly learn anything from those suggestions?...noot likely as there was no actual suggestions as to which toi use for what reason, as we did not know what kind of sanding you were doing or needed to do. Againb sorry, you can't expect to get help if you do not identify a specific problem. As in almost anything these days, there is a thing call Google and You Tube that can provide you with many answers to generic questions and the ability to gain some degree of KNOWLEDGE before coming to this group for help with specifics. Please undersatand we all love to help others including experienced scrollers and newbies alike.