FrankEV

OK call me stupid, but what is a 50/50 brew? BTW, nice cut.

You are going to cherish that cut....nice job! The pattern must have been good because the cut is.

Hey it is your boat to float. Never saw a Xmas tree that shape or those colors...but then again what do I know. Opps, did note that you are from Illinois...that could be the reason .

That sounds like a nice undertaking. These Underwater Sea Creature patterns are from the Scroller Website. (https://www.scrolleronline.com) There are a few different subject patterns also, like butterflys and frogs. They come in a 3 pack but a slight discount if you buy the 6 pack. The patterns are nominal 8" diameter and that is why I had to stagger them to fit on a 48" backer.

In a thread under Q&A I previously asked the question about how "Wall Art" is normally displayed, as there are no suggestions for backers or frames. Based on some of the answers I received this is what I did. My lady, Robin, specifically found these six Underwater Sea Creature patterns from the Scroller Website and she asked me to cut them for her. They are cut from 1/4"BB Ply and left unstained. I mostly used Pegas #0 spiral blades to cut the patterns. As they are "Wall Art", I decided I would need to create my own "wall", as I did not think they would look good hanging by themselves on our nearly white walls. The backer is 12" x 48" long piece of 1/4" Luan plywood painted with 3 coats of custom colored wall paint. The base color was Valspar Blue Turquoise that I streaked the wet third coat with Valspar Turquoise Tint to add some light colored high lights. I purchased sample jars of the paint from the Lowes paint department. After mounting the cuts to the backer I finished the panel with multiple coats of spray Lacquer. I made the custom size frame from cut down pre-primed brick mold, also from Lowes, which I then finished painted with rattle can spray high gloss white enamel. I think this project came out fairly well and we now have our own Wall Art Aquarium and Robin is happy...that is all that matters!

Lots of nice work. Just wondering, don't you sleep? All those would take me weeks to complete as my shop time is only about max 3 hours a day. Project glue up time and finishing accounts for a lot of that time. I may start a second project while paint dries, but my normal routine is to cut, glue, finish and when needed build a frame. Kevin, your monica say it all!

Quite well done. Definately needed the backer!

The table of my 21" Pegas with the Pegas stand sits (when level) at full extention just about 37" off the floor. The leg extenders can be changed in two inch increments or about 6" total vertically. I currently have my front extenders down one hole (about 2"), so the front of the table is at 35" with the rear of the table angled up to around 38". I puchased a workshop stool from HF that was much too tall so I had tho cut the legs down by 3", so my seat height is now 26". This combination is working for me, but still have not decided if it is optmal. I am short and have short legs, so even with these dimensions, I had to make a support for my foot switch that raises it off the floor about 5". If I have to satnd up to do any cutting these dimensions are OK as the vertical location of my head and hands are not that much higher then when sitting on the stool. My bigest concern is seeing the blade/pattern line intersection comfortably. If I sit up straight it is hard to see. If I want to see the blade/pattern well, I find I'm hunching over. I also find my body position is effected differently when using spiral blades vs. regular straight cutting blades. When using Spirals I want to look down on the work while when using regular blades I can look at the blade/pattern more head on, if that makes any sence. So when using spirals I'm definately hunched over more and it is felt in my neck, shouldeers and lower back. As for my arm position, I think my forearms/wrists are just about on the same plane as the table. Elbows extend out from my body and the table, but are not drooping down, unless I holding the work piece from below. This happens sometimes when the cut is near the edge of the piece and the piece extends out from the table significantly. The table of my Porter Cable saw on its stand was just about at the same level as the Pegas. I have to beleive (I know giving more credit then may be due) that saw manufacturers who offer stands have chosens the stand hights to be suitable for most people.

No matter what dill bit I use (#68 and up) I use a dremel carving bit, that looks like a ball at the end of a shaft, to debur the hole and create a funnel shaped dimple on the back side at each hole. Makes threading a 2/0 blade, or even larger blades, from below much easier. I think this might be easier than the Awl trick.

I was not being sensitive or taking any offence and it certainly isn't the words of the quote by Fred Rogers that was my of concern. By themselves the words are absolutly great. To me it was the message that MAY/COULD be construded by the quote WITH the image when received together. I saw an implied message that there was something wrong with the receipient (even if not intended) especially if that recipient was going to be a young child (my assumption). Even Charlie, in his reply to me, seemed to say he had to explain to his grandchildren what the piece really ment!

My comments have nothing to do with the very well done scroll work. It is more so, about how the message may be received. Quite a while ago I used to teach Couples to Dance. When they would sucessfully finish a routine I had a habit of saying: "That wasn't too terrible" and ment it as a complement until It was pointed out to me that I was really saying; "It was terrible". Until it was mentioned to me I had no idea that what I was saying was realy hurtful. When Mister Rogers spoke he was talking to a wide aduience of alll kinds of children. And all those chilldren received the meaning of such words in their own minds and circumstances. My comment is; isn't the cutting and message conveying the idea that there is something actually wrong with the child who will be the recipient. Kind of like what I was doing with my offending complement to my students. Consider what you might think if you received a Valentines day card with that image and saying. Hoping my comments are not out of place as they are just for consideration.

Welcome for the East coast of Central Florida. SVV is a great place and a bunch of great people with a welth of information and willing to share. I went from a PC to the 21" Pegas also, great saw. I tried top feeding....does not work for me. Too easy to kink the blades and I find it very hard to find the groove in the lower clamp when tightening to grip the blade. So I still bottome feed but the ability to lift the arm out of the way makes it a lot easier than on the PC. If you want to do more challenging fretwork patterns, learn to use spiral blades as well as the standard blades. Spiral blades take a lot of practice but the amount of detail you can accomplish is amazing. Don't forget to post pics of your finished projects. We all enjoy seeing what others do.

Very nice. I guess the red wasn't too half baked and idea. The Alex Fox pattern was more detailed than many of the Santa portraits that were available. I'm not sure Santa was his "Jolly Old Self" when he posed.

The season is fast approaching, so I thought it fitting to add to my Christmas projects. This first portrait is an 11X14 Alex Fox Santa pattern cut in 5/32" solid core Maple plywood with a 1/4" thick solid core Mahogany plywood backer stained with Minwax Barn Red. The panel is finished using multiple coat of clear gloss spray Lacquer. A majority of the cutting was done using Pegas #0 spiral blades The panel is set loose in a simple custom Poplar frame that is painted dark rattle spray can Hunt Club Green. I had a difficult time choosing which to use, a standard black backer or the red backer as both looked good to me. So I let my lady, Robin, chose and she selected the Red. She also suggested the green frame. My second portrait was inspired by recent postings by Woodrush of his very well done Jim Blume Pattern Gandalf. I have had the H. Botas Gandalf pattern in my "TO DO" pile for a while, but I kind of liked the background on the JB version slightly better. However, I was unable to find the JB pattern so I used Inkscape to modify the HB pattern to be similar and fit an 11x14 panel. When comparing the two patterns, I did note that the HB pattern was quite a bit more detailed and required a lot of holes. This cutting was also done in solid core 5/32" Maple plywood with a 1/8" BB backer painted rattle spray can Gloss Black. All cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and the panel was again finished with multiple coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a custom Poplar frame that I distressed and stained with Minwax Espresso (dark brown - almost black) and then protected it with multiple coats of clear spray Polyurethane.

Impressive and very nice. I'm sure will be loved by all recipeints. Any stack cutting involved?

Hey Sed, welcome to the Village from Central Florida, US. Hope you can make time for both hobbies...they are both very addictive.

Very nice! Good work on the pattern. I can relate to your hsbands perdicament. About six weeks ago I tried to pick up something very heavy and strained my back. I heard a pop so I may have actually torn a mussle. The pain was real bad in the beginnning but has gotten better but is still there and I suspect it will be there for quite a while yet. Ibuprofen helps but I'm limited on how much I can take because I'm suseptable to bleeding ulsers, so I just have to power through. I do wish him a speedy recovery.

The "Pumkins" are cut from 1/2 X !2 X 12 Sanded Ply from patterns purchased from https://theholzbrothers.com/ ($3.79/downloadable). You can get any name of letter you want. Painted with rattel can orange and acrylic green for the stem. The "Happy Fall Y'All" is a Steve Good pattern. He gives you a small and a large pattern. I did the large approximately 12 X 11. I used 1/4 BB for the cut and afixed to 1/2" sanded ply backer painted dark brown. The Leaves were painted with acrylic craft paint. Applied a multi coats of polyurethane to make it suitable for outdoor use.

Welcome to Denny's Pegas Saw users Club!!!!. You will probaqly find, like I did, that you don't need the hold down foot and as Denny recommended, you will probably want to remove the plastic diaphram and vacumn hose connector under the table. Both are in the way unless you actually hook up a vac to it. I also found I had to snug up the bolt the arm pivots on as the arm would not stay up only after a short while of using, Other than those little items the saw is a dream to use. Oh, as others have mentioned in other posts, it is a good idea to wax the table top. Enjoy and let us see what you can do on it.

I had the 18" PC (a little over $300 at Lowes) and quickly upgraded to a Pegas for two reasons.. The blade on the PC jumps around a lot and is not instant on/off. It takes a second or two to reach full speed each time yopu turn it on. Very difficult to start a cut that is at apoint. Also the 18" throat is limiting. I do not recommend this saw! The PC stand, however, is quite heavy and solid. Minimum vibration. Almost as good as the Pegas stand I now have. Do your research and save your pennies so you can get a better saw. You would have to pay twice.

Lumber yard 1x pine can be wet and/or have pine sap near the board surface. Either could cause the wood to not slide well, even if sanded. However, it sounds more like (to me) blade problems and an attempt to cut too quickly. Inavertantly installing the blade upside down can also cause some of the problems you described and trying to cut too fast will cause many of the same problems. I recently stack cut two pieces of 1/2" sanded ply and it seemed like I had to slow my push speed WAY down to let the blade do the cutting. As soon as I pushed a little too hard it was impossible to stay on the pattern line and the blade went dull real fast. Even though they need to be changed more frequently as they dull rather fast, I find smaller blades do better when cutting thicker panels.

Actually pushing the bulbs into the holes I drilled for them was the eaisest part of the project. Everything I had to do to get to that point took more time and effort then expected. Putting lights in the wreath seemed like it would be a good idea and it actually looks good fron the front, but the jungle of wires makes the project a little impracticle.

I should have included these pics from the side and back. They do sell sets with smaller LEDs but I could only find them in 50 bulb strings and did not want to hang two batterypacks from the back. I only needed 88 so there is 12 hanging in the back that I plan to trim off.

Frank...sure I'm not writing to myself Please don't take my comments about the pattern wrong. I just did not plan ahead enough and tried to do something that really wasn't what it was designed for...so it took me forever to complete. I forgot to remember KISS and made it much more complecated than it needed to be. Looking at the Pattern I received, the Triscuit for laying on a table my actually be a better project..

Sue May NW1902 Christmas Tree Wreath Pattern. Believe it or not I did not see the little trees untill I started to cut the pattern. I used 1/2" sanded ply for the top and 1/4" BB ply for the backer. This seemed to be a very simple project but took way too much time to complete. The cut was relatively simple and repetative, but when cutting the 1/2" ply I cut out the middle before doubble stick tapeing the backer to it, so I had to do the middle cut out twice. All cutting was done with Pegas #1 spiral blades except the small stars on top of each tree for which I used a Pegas #1 MGT. to get pointer stars.. Then I decided to paint the trees green and the backer that shows behind the trees red. That was easy, until when overlayed, the red was vissable all around the edges both inside and outside which ment I now had to hand paint all the exposed edges of the backer green. I also painted all the stars gold, but the craft paint did not cover the green sparay paint very well reguiring multiple coats and my hands are not to steady these days. I'm Not quite finished yet. I had the bright idea (no pun intended) to add mini LED lights through holes in the backer. I found a cheap 100 bulb string of the mini LED's in Big LOts. Searching through my numbered drill set I finally found the correct size bit that would hold the light in place with out glue. All is good except there is way too much wire bunched up behind the wreath. As they say: Live and learn. Not, IMHO, the best project to undertake and wouldn't do it again. I'll hang it in my house for the holidays but not sure is it will be a keepsake. And I did not mention that it takes 3 AAA batteries that will need to be replaced regularly if left on for any length of time..... Unlit Lit