FrankEV

I was not being sensitive or taking any offence and it certainly isn't the words of the quote by Fred Rogers that was my of concern. By themselves the words are absolutly great. To me it was the message that MAY/COULD be construded by the quote WITH the image when received together. I saw an implied message that there was something wrong with the receipient (even if not intended) especially if that recipient was going to be a young child (my assumption). Even Charlie, in his reply to me, seemed to say he had to explain to his grandchildren what the piece really ment!

My comments have nothing to do with the very well done scroll work. It is more so, about how the message may be received. Quite a while ago I used to teach Couples to Dance. When they would sucessfully finish a routine I had a habit of saying: "That wasn't too terrible" and ment it as a complement until It was pointed out to me that I was really saying; "It was terrible". Until it was mentioned to me I had no idea that what I was saying was realy hurtful. When Mister Rogers spoke he was talking to a wide aduience of alll kinds of children. And all those chilldren received the meaning of such words in their own minds and circumstances. My comment is; isn't the cutting and message conveying the idea that there is something actually wrong with the child who will be the recipient. Kind of like what I was doing with my offending complement to my students. Consider what you might think if you received a Valentines day card with that image and saying. Hoping my comments are not out of place as they are just for consideration.

Welcome for the East coast of Central Florida. SVV is a great place and a bunch of great people with a welth of information and willing to share. I went from a PC to the 21" Pegas also, great saw. I tried top feeding....does not work for me. Too easy to kink the blades and I find it very hard to find the groove in the lower clamp when tightening to grip the blade. So I still bottome feed but the ability to lift the arm out of the way makes it a lot easier than on the PC. If you want to do more challenging fretwork patterns, learn to use spiral blades as well as the standard blades. Spiral blades take a lot of practice but the amount of detail you can accomplish is amazing. Don't forget to post pics of your finished projects. We all enjoy seeing what others do.

Very nice. I guess the red wasn't too half baked and idea. The Alex Fox pattern was more detailed than many of the Santa portraits that were available. I'm not sure Santa was his "Jolly Old Self" when he posed.

The season is fast approaching, so I thought it fitting to add to my Christmas projects. This first portrait is an 11X14 Alex Fox Santa pattern cut in 5/32" solid core Maple plywood with a 1/4" thick solid core Mahogany plywood backer stained with Minwax Barn Red. The panel is finished using multiple coat of clear gloss spray Lacquer. A majority of the cutting was done using Pegas #0 spiral blades The panel is set loose in a simple custom Poplar frame that is painted dark rattle spray can Hunt Club Green. I had a difficult time choosing which to use, a standard black backer or the red backer as both looked good to me. So I let my lady, Robin, chose and she selected the Red. She also suggested the green frame. My second portrait was inspired by recent postings by Woodrush of his very well done Jim Blume Pattern Gandalf. I have had the H. Botas Gandalf pattern in my "TO DO" pile for a while, but I kind of liked the background on the JB version slightly better. However, I was unable to find the JB pattern so I used Inkscape to modify the HB pattern to be similar and fit an 11x14 panel. When comparing the two patterns, I did note that the HB pattern was quite a bit more detailed and required a lot of holes. This cutting was also done in solid core 5/32" Maple plywood with a 1/8" BB backer painted rattle spray can Gloss Black. All cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and the panel was again finished with multiple coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a custom Poplar frame that I distressed and stained with Minwax Espresso (dark brown - almost black) and then protected it with multiple coats of clear spray Polyurethane.

Impressive and very nice. I'm sure will be loved by all recipeints. Any stack cutting involved?

Hey Sed, welcome to the Village from Central Florida, US. Hope you can make time for both hobbies...they are both very addictive.

Very nice! Good work on the pattern. I can relate to your hsbands perdicament. About six weeks ago I tried to pick up something very heavy and strained my back. I heard a pop so I may have actually torn a mussle. The pain was real bad in the beginnning but has gotten better but is still there and I suspect it will be there for quite a while yet. Ibuprofen helps but I'm limited on how much I can take because I'm suseptable to bleeding ulsers, so I just have to power through. I do wish him a speedy recovery.

The "Pumkins" are cut from 1/2 X !2 X 12 Sanded Ply from patterns purchased from https://theholzbrothers.com/ ($3.79/downloadable). You can get any name of letter you want. Painted with rattel can orange and acrylic green for the stem. The "Happy Fall Y'All" is a Steve Good pattern. He gives you a small and a large pattern. I did the large approximately 12 X 11. I used 1/4 BB for the cut and afixed to 1/2" sanded ply backer painted dark brown. The Leaves were painted with acrylic craft paint. Applied a multi coats of polyurethane to make it suitable for outdoor use.

Welcome to Denny's Pegas Saw users Club!!!!. You will probaqly find, like I did, that you don't need the hold down foot and as Denny recommended, you will probably want to remove the plastic diaphram and vacumn hose connector under the table. Both are in the way unless you actually hook up a vac to it. I also found I had to snug up the bolt the arm pivots on as the arm would not stay up only after a short while of using, Other than those little items the saw is a dream to use. Oh, as others have mentioned in other posts, it is a good idea to wax the table top. Enjoy and let us see what you can do on it.

I had the 18" PC (a little over $300 at Lowes) and quickly upgraded to a Pegas for two reasons.. The blade on the PC jumps around a lot and is not instant on/off. It takes a second or two to reach full speed each time yopu turn it on. Very difficult to start a cut that is at apoint. Also the 18" throat is limiting. I do not recommend this saw! The PC stand, however, is quite heavy and solid. Minimum vibration. Almost as good as the Pegas stand I now have. Do your research and save your pennies so you can get a better saw. You would have to pay twice.

Lumber yard 1x pine can be wet and/or have pine sap near the board surface. Either could cause the wood to not slide well, even if sanded. However, it sounds more like (to me) blade problems and an attempt to cut too quickly. Inavertantly installing the blade upside down can also cause some of the problems you described and trying to cut too fast will cause many of the same problems. I recently stack cut two pieces of 1/2" sanded ply and it seemed like I had to slow my push speed WAY down to let the blade do the cutting. As soon as I pushed a little too hard it was impossible to stay on the pattern line and the blade went dull real fast. Even though they need to be changed more frequently as they dull rather fast, I find smaller blades do better when cutting thicker panels.

Actually pushing the bulbs into the holes I drilled for them was the eaisest part of the project. Everything I had to do to get to that point took more time and effort then expected. Putting lights in the wreath seemed like it would be a good idea and it actually looks good fron the front, but the jungle of wires makes the project a little impracticle.

I should have included these pics from the side and back. They do sell sets with smaller LEDs but I could only find them in 50 bulb strings and did not want to hang two batterypacks from the back. I only needed 88 so there is 12 hanging in the back that I plan to trim off.

Frank...sure I'm not writing to myself Please don't take my comments about the pattern wrong. I just did not plan ahead enough and tried to do something that really wasn't what it was designed for...so it took me forever to complete. I forgot to remember KISS and made it much more complecated than it needed to be. Looking at the Pattern I received, the Triscuit for laying on a table my actually be a better project..

Sue May NW1902 Christmas Tree Wreath Pattern. Believe it or not I did not see the little trees untill I started to cut the pattern. I used 1/2" sanded ply for the top and 1/4" BB ply for the backer. This seemed to be a very simple project but took way too much time to complete. The cut was relatively simple and repetative, but when cutting the 1/2" ply I cut out the middle before doubble stick tapeing the backer to it, so I had to do the middle cut out twice. All cutting was done with Pegas #1 spiral blades except the small stars on top of each tree for which I used a Pegas #1 MGT. to get pointer stars.. Then I decided to paint the trees green and the backer that shows behind the trees red. That was easy, until when overlayed, the red was vissable all around the edges both inside and outside which ment I now had to hand paint all the exposed edges of the backer green. I also painted all the stars gold, but the craft paint did not cover the green sparay paint very well reguiring multiple coats and my hands are not to steady these days. I'm Not quite finished yet. I had the bright idea (no pun intended) to add mini LED lights through holes in the backer. I found a cheap 100 bulb string of the mini LED's in Big LOts. Searching through my numbered drill set I finally found the correct size bit that would hold the light in place with out glue. All is good except there is way too much wire bunched up behind the wreath. As they say: Live and learn. Not, IMHO, the best project to undertake and wouldn't do it again. I'll hang it in my house for the holidays but not sure is it will be a keepsake. And I did not mention that it takes 3 AAA batteries that will need to be replaced regularly if left on for any length of time..... Unlit Lit

I love eagles also...great job.

The inability to sit for more tha an hour has certainly not done anything to mess with your cutting skills. May have taken a little longer to complete but it is very nice work. Hope thing get much better for you and your saw (no pun intended) time.

I'm by no means an expert, but from what I undersatnd there is BB ply and there is BB ply, and the two may not be the same quality. I'm not sure your sourse may be the quality that you may want to be using. I've been using BB Ply that come in 12"X24" panels without any cutting backer and I have not experienced any tear out top or bottom. I do get a lot of fuzzies, but between the sanding mop you reccomended and a small butane torch, I'm able to get rid of them after a cut. I do sand both sides of my panels before cutting. This mainly helps with strand pull out when removing the film (clear shelving liner I get from Walmart) that I use under the pattern. Also, after drilling the blade holes, I debur each hole on the backside with a dremel round head carving bit. Makes installing the blade much eaiser and eliminates blade causing tearout at the hole. Just some thoughts from this newbie.

I'm a relatively newbie and started out with a 18" Porter Cable, but became very unhappy with it as the blade jumped around a lot so I decided to upgrade. The 21" Pegas is a very good machine and used by many on here and is highly reccommended. E-mail Dennis Knappen (he one of us) at [email protected] for a price. He does VERY good by us. Don't forget to order the stand with it. It is good and solid. It took about a week to get mine as it ships by ground from PA and I'm in Florida. He has good prices on Pegas blades also. Dennis can get you a good magnifiying light and a foot switch also, if you don't have them....both are an absolute necessity. I'm confident you would be happy with a 21" Pegas. I know I am.

Like everyone else said: Looks Great. Unfortunately the Tablet hides that cute face. Nice scroll work.

This is a Russ Beard Marlin pattern that was slightly modified and resized to suit a standard 11x14 Frame and cut from 5/32" thk Maple solid core ply with a painted 1/8" thk BB ply backer. All cutting was done with Pegas #0 spiral blades Panel finished with multiple coats of clear lacquer. I made a simple Poplar frame stained with Minwax Early American and coated with clear satin polyurethane. If you look close you might see that the backer is painted black behind the Marlin and painted a fairly dark aqua green behind the water area.

Brown backer very appropriate. I did the same for my recent Horse portrait. The Frame is perfect and makes a beautiful finish project.

I noted in your previous post, that you were cutting to fit a 8X10 frame. From this pic I can't tell how large the pattern is or what the panel size is, but if you used a whole sheet for an 8X10 frame you wasted a lot of valuble wood. I always try to pre plan what size I want the panel (8X10,11X14 or custom) and then trim my pattern (and possibly resizing as needed), to fit a pre cut panel. That way I can usually get as much excess wood to use for another poject. For examp0le you can cut two 8X10 panels fron one 12X19 1/2 panel. BTW, very nice cut on that sad faced pooch...looks like he wants a scratch behind his ear.

Agreeing with your wife, the Fretwork version is , to me, much more apealing as is is more "ARTSY", for lack of a better word. I think all of the multi-layered projects, including this one, are nice and have a certain attraction, but to me they are more of what I would think of as a nick-nack. Sit on a shelf only to be replaced by something else in time. I don't feel they do well as a wall hanging and are better suited to the use of a table top stand. I think your fretwork version, and as is true for many of the portraits/scenes cut by our members, when hung on somebody's wall, just like a beautiful canvas painting, would remain there for many years to come. BTW, both pieces are very well done including cut panel and the interesting and unusual frame consfigurations. Curious, were the frames done with a router or scroll saw and are they rabbited to allow insetting the panels?