Joe W.
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Everything posted by Joe W.
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And another Hiddy-ho (long distance) neighbor from Delaware.
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Welcome from the other side of the Nation - Delaware.
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You are in the right place. Enjoy!
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Along those lines, I have come across a some websites (i.e.; FreeCycle, Facebook, Nextdoor) that have a free section. I've see various furniture listed made with wood. My wife likes to walk the neighborhood and on occasion has made some good finds. The latest was a king size bedframe with the headboard and footboard made of creamy poplar. Also, a couple of our friends, knowing I do woodworking will call us from time to time, letting us know if someone has put something on the side of the road that I might be able to salvage for wood. -
Welcome from Delaware. This is a good place to learn and share scroll-sawing.
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Welcome from Delaware. For some immediate reference/help, check out Steve Good's website. He has several videos on scroll-sawing I feel certain will give you some valuable information.
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Roger that! Just got our yearly home owners insurance policy - went up over $200.
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https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/ I found the above link helpful and there are also a variety of You Tube videos with variations of the formula for reference. What I like about making my own is being able to create small batches at a time and store any leftover in small containers. One video mentions the need to eliminate excess air from the container as the air poly will cure from it and skim over. One suggestion was to add glass pebbles what would raise the level to the top of the container. Another was to turn the sealed container upside down, allowing any poly to skim on the bottom of the container. I have used plastic prescription bottles with success to store small leftover amounts. If you wanted to, you could forego using poly altogether and just use a mixture of pure Tung Oil and MS (or turpentine). I've done a few pieces with my home made Danish Oil and liked being able to apply two wipe on coats in a day, and the way they looked.
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Finishing has been a journey for me. Started out using Watco Tung Oil. Used Shellac a few times. Spray on Poly and Lacquer also. Mainly used Tung Oil, so decided to try my hand at making my own: 1-to-1 ratio of pure tung oil/MS/clear gloss poly. It wipes on easy and dries quickly, allowing me to put several coats on if I want. I'll still use the other finishes for various items, but I think I'll be using my own tung oil mixture from now on for the majority of what I make.
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I get distracted and . OH LOOK - Squirrel! (see what I mean )
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Well, for a 1st, I think you got it down pat. Well done and look forward to seeing what comes next.
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I may have missed it in previous postings, but consider a solid core door for building material. I've seen them at our local Restore store between $50-70. And there is always the long shot where there is a laser forum out there and somebody has a set of plans on hand. Ya never know.
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If you haven't tried power wood carving, consider giving that a try. An angle grinder, wood carving disc for it, and a good sized log. (or wood of your choice). Then let your creative juices shape it into a functional item or a piece of artwork. Sand and finish as desired. Lots of YouTube videos on the net to help you get started.
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I have started milling green wood (Beech/Cherry so far) and am using up my old leftover latex paint to seal the ends. It works. Sometimes I have to apply a second coat to get a good thick seal, but it definitely does the job. I've also read heated wax can be used, if you have a lot of that lying around.
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You're gonna like it here. Welcome from Delaware.
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Welcome back from Delaware.
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You are in the right place. Welcome from Delaware.
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I struggle with setting a price on some things I've made. I take into account my location (not a high priced area to live in), complexity of the item (how long it took to make), and type and cost of wood it was made from. Plus, the "ready made" competition of similar items found in stores like Hobby Lobby. Some of my items have taken 2 years for the right person to come along and buy. Over the past 3 years doing this, I have reinforced and come to believe the best I can do and am quite OK with, is that I have a hobby/pastime that pays for itself, and makes me happy as well as the people who buy my works.
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Welcome from Delaware. This is a great place for anyone starting out in scrollsawing.
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I like that idea better than using marbles. Thanks!
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My backyard neighbor's large beech tree feel down a few months ago and I got several large pieces from it. Milled some of it into useable blocks and I like the color and grain pattern of it. Reminds me of a creamy colored wood.
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I've just started mixing my own wipe-on finish: 1 part pure Tung Oil, 1 part MS, I part gloss polyurethane (found on a YouTube Video). I like that I can mix it in small batches and now use the smallest container for the mixed amount as needed. Sometimes I've used empty prescription bottles to hold the leftover amount with no problems. The first couple of times I used a larger container and was surprised to see how quickly the poly started to skim over in a day or two. Between the small container (less air space) and turning the container upside down when finished, it seems to minimize the amount of poly that skims. I also came across the suggestion to use glass marbles to take up the air space. I haven't tried that yet as I tailor my mix to the item(s) I am finishing. I've only done this for applying finish to dough bowls and it's worked well - I can wipe on a coat or two a day and so far, 4 coats have produced a good finish.
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Welcome from Delaware. Many board feet of answers here to any questions you have about scroll sawing
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I got my Jet 14" from HD - free shipping + veteran discount. No regrets.
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Agree - I got the Jet 14" last year mainly for resawing and have not been disappointed. Recently got into making dough bowls out of logs. It has not problem cutting a 12" diameter log in half. And for making rough cuts and resawing. But I am ready to buy a smaller bandsaw (9"-10")for smaller more intricate cutting (i.e.; bandsaw boxes/cutting the outline of a scroll saw pattern). On the fence about ceramic/cool blocks vs. roller bearings. While I could use a smaller blade, I don't like having to take the time to swap out and tune the blades.
