preprius

That project made a long hard day.

FAILED attempt #1. Clamp drill motor to upper arm. Use upper arm to act like plunging mechanism. That is just push arm down to drill. Failure was my clamp structure was not 90deg. drill won't go straight even it I did have 90deg. Next attempt will be to use the fixed bar (on the other side) and add plunging mechanism. Change drilling motor to smaller device.

2 ships passing ?

Nice. I can smell the cedar from here. Hah his belt buckle was stolen

I like it. I think the choice of wood was great. I will need to order some bubinga. But I see a lot work and a lot of holes. I need a vacation to make it.

I also like the first one. The roses in circle is great. My wife likes the humming birds.

I am glad that I became member. The more I ask questions and share my problems the faster I learn. I had my scrollsaw in my garage for >8 years. 5 months ago I signed up in this village and learned about all kinds of techniques. Intarsia, fret work, bowl making, box making. Any shape can be a bowl or a box. I am not a facebooker. This village is the first site I signed up for. I appreciate all the help in the last 5 months.

I decided to make this my next project. I ordered stuff to do it today. We will send pictures when I get it going.

What we need is an accessory that clamps to the upper arm of the scroll saw. This way we can reuse the same tilt mechanism. We dont have to set 2 tools for same angle. For the Hawk the upper arm already has a spring mechanism to have the drill motor act as plunge spring. So a sturdy clamp for small drill motor would simpify the accessory. The upper arm already has side to side sturdiness built in also. The depth of drill will need to adjustable but the upper arm already moves the maximum drill depth. Can a seyco drill motor be adapted to this kind of clamping accessory? For other types of saw upper arms maybe the spring plung will be needed.

Indians and bears. Nice topic. The background of blue seems nice. Kinda turquoise in color which indians used alot. I hope you keep that color of background.

my hand drill does not hold #60 drill. But the video was good for bigger drill sizes.

I wanted to try to make a football bowl. So I made an oval about the same size as a football. Outer ring is about 11inches. I chose Myrtle for the wood. I wanted about 1/4 inch thick walls. So it comes out to 22.5 degrees angle. So I drilled the holes and cut the rings. Glued the rings together but left off the bottom. That way I could sand the inside of the bowl. I used a foam pipe cover to hold sandpaper easier. The outside was sanded with palm sander. After is was all glued up, I used butcher block conditioner which has Carnuba wax. Here is a youtube video that shows before oil and after oil. Here are pictures. I think it looks more like an egyptian boat.

it looks like I need to go buy another one for in the house. They work good for removing cat hair in hard to reach corners.

harbor freight $8.00

Always tacky lasts forever. A sandpaper eraser. Thr rubber stick you use to clear clogged sandpaper. This works well rubbing over the wood after sanding. Even with 400 and 600 grit. Just rinse with water and let dry for next time.

ahhh my favorite movie. Tombstone.

i would say the experiment was a success.

There is a cabinet finishing company near me. The sign on the street says "It is not done till it is finished". I thought was cute. So I had a guitar that needed to be clear coated. So I went to them and discussed my project. They only finish cabinents. Other companies give them the built cabinents. So they are very specialized company. So I do like your preference. I was just extending the finishing company's motto to your preferrence. I thought others might like that also. I sometimes use the deployed as the final step. If the project is painted, finished, and shipped the project still might not be considered done until it is installed or deployed into service. Like a statue being presented at some ceremony.

So the project is not completed until it is painted/finished AND presented.

i was just doing the sanding between coats this morning. I also was thinking is there a better way. Thanks. Now you gave me the answer ! !.

very clever. hah, for the next one... you could put winter harvest on one side (oranges) and summer crop on otherside.

Where is the lasagne?

so I stacked cut purple heart and Myrtle. purple heart janka hardness 2520 lb. Myrtle janka hardness 1270 lb. 1.0625 inches in total. Thrn for the center double stacked Myrtle. for a total of 1.125in thick.

That is so beautiful. The high contrast from edges to white background make it stand out. Therefor the edges have to be perfect. And they ARE. !!! Beautiful.

Some guy at my work is leaving. So I made him a farewell gift. The D and S are the logo. Attached are two pics. The tiny logos are my first attempt at angled cut for easy inlay. The purple heart should have dropped into the brown wood. But it didn't go all the way down. So I filed sanded until it fit. I had a setting of 1.8 deg angle. I should have accounted for 2x the blade thickness. The purple heart was 1/16th inch less thickness (1/2 vs 9/16.). So i played with fitting the brown wood into the purple heart hole. Ok I knew it would have gaps. I could put I could put a led light behind it and hilight the S. Also I can enhance the S by leaving the 1/16" above the D... I think that is called "relief". Anyway I was playing. The 2 big pieces I did not use angled cut. So I planned on making the inverse coloring. Why waste wood? On the boxes, they came out ok. One was better than the other. Both are acceptable. I will add 3 tiny magnets to hold the top on. Also I need to add semi-gloss finish. Maybe 4 coats. The tiny logos have Satin finish 3 coats. Mark.