crupiea

I will be making this. here is the pattern i will be using. its from a book of tattoos.

That chart is very handy. You will notice that you might have less control if the blade is too small or it seems like a buzz saw blade because its so big. then you just fine tune it from there. Its a pretty constant thing so once you have a few blade range to match your wood its a simple thing. For me I basically make everything out of 1/8" bb. I use the same for backers so the biggest blade i will use is maybe a 3. thats for the 1/4" piece front and backing together. That or a 1. I doo the rest of the cuts with a 2/0. so really i only have 3 blades that i use all the time. 3, 1 and 2/0. thats it, usually i dont even use the 3 so its really just the 2 sizes.

I get more tear outs depending in the direction f the grain. For letters i like the grain to go up and down instead of side to side.

very nice set up

I pretty much just hang them on the wall and look at them. eventually would be nice to seel some but no hurry.

Just finished this one a week or so ago.

How do yu like that dremel set up? every used it for routing stuff? been thinking of getting something like that. Nice work,

Watched some youtube videos about it and it seems pretty simple. yeah, not exactly the same results when i tried it. still mystifies me.

I cant stand spirals. tried them but just not my thing. some people get great results with them though. I use jewelers blades, they are about 54 teeth per inch. Mainly 2/0. They are cheap too, a gross on amazon is $18. The downside is they dont have reverse teeth so you need to sand the backs but thats not that big of a deal. Its worth it for the smooth cuts and the ability to really get tight with the tiny turns.

Just a reminder. i have been talking with a friend about it and got to looking at mine, been a while since I waxed it and had a load of oil from my hands on it. Sanded it down and waxed it up and now its just like brand new. Good weekend to do this.

The first rule of mystery holes is we dont talk about mystery holes.

My kind of darts board! none of those pesky numbers to have to hit. too much pressure. just kidding, it looks great, i would love one of these. used to have one but moved and got rid of it. not as nice as this one though.

i think we all know what is going to happen. there will be an outbreak of oddball scrollsaw injuries out of nowhere because of this thread.

Have never been hurt but do get a bit of a start when the blade breaks sometimes. I scroll really slow so i can literally hold the blade while its going up and down. not advisable but I have done it. side to side of course, not the front. I usually take my glasses off to work but will wear them if cutting thicker stuff on a higher speed.

Its fantastic, really impressive.

If its like the dewalt has its this thing with a bunch of nub like pieces. What will happen is they might crack and will just fall apart or swivel around alot. what i did when that happened was remove the offending piece. I heated it in hot water so they come apart and then rinse under cold to shrink them back up without the cracked piece. I also use an aquaium pump now with the tube just taped to the one on the saw.i like it because its constant and not dependant on the motion of the saw. total cost, $8 from walmart.

Your regular drill bits and such should work when you are starting out. As for wood think about what you want to do. For portraits like people do the easiest is baltic birch. The most common thicknesses are 1/8" and 1/4" so either one will be fine. For things like puzzle like those animal type puzzles you see just use some basic pine boards. no sense getting too wrapped up with too much money when first starting out. You will need some blades, its possible to go through a lot of them at a single sitting so spend a few bucks on getting a lot of them. Flying dutchman, olsen, pegasus are a few that people use. i prefer flying dutchman and many will agree on these. They are sold by size so look up a size chart, easy to find online. An example would be a #7 would be for thicker stock, the numbers will go down the thinner the wood gets so for starting out on a pine board that is 3/4" thick you will be fine with a #5 blade, for thin wood use a smaller number. Its best to but them online as most stores just dont carry them and it will drive you nuts looking for them. woodenteddybear is pretty much the outlet for flying dutchman blades. you will see a bunch of types as well. i use fd-sr, flying dutchman, they have reverse teeth so they cut on the up and down strokes so it leaves a smooth finish without a bunch of burrs. also fd-ur will work great.

My take on a Max Grundy piece. he is the original artist, i just did my interpretation of it, If you like hot rods and such check him out.

I dont keep notes. of course years later I look at the piece and cant for the life of me figure out how i did it.

If you have the actual puzzle, put in on your scanner and scan it, bada bing, instant pattern. That or take a good picture of it and email it to yourself.

I always just assumed it was bottom feed as thats the way my old delta was. never tried top feeding it but dont see why not. its just thumbs screw things top and bottom. will try it today.

I use the cheapest generic spray glue they sell at walmart. no idea what the brind is. Spray a super light coat in the back of the paper, super light coat, like 1 second for the whole pattern. Now wait a few minutes so it is just barely tacky. Picture a post it note amount of stickiness, thats almost too much but will work. apply it to the wood. It will stay on just fine and peel right off when done.

There is always a hegner for sale near me for like $100. of course how could it be for sale week after week, month after month? The answer is, its not real. They are just trying to get valid emails so they can later spam you.

Here are 3 items i just completed.