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Baltic Birch


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Ok I have a question that Im hoping someone can answer. Whenever I cut a pattern, I cover the wood with painters tape and glue my pattern to that and cover that with packing tape and it works great. But now when I use baltic birch plywood (1/2 inch) I take off the blue painters tape after I cut and it pulls up tiny splinters out of the wood and makes the surface really rough which is annoying when I sand the wood before. and this problem only occurs with baltic birch. the surface is very rough with tiny splinters sticking up. So I wanted to know if anyone else has similar problems and if anyone knows how to prevent it from happening. Thanks!

-Joe

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This has happened to me, only when using BB. I tried FrogTape since i had it on hand from a painting job, and it seemed to work better (especially the delicate one). Those aren't cheaper though, about the same if not a tiny bit more.

 

Honestly I've stopped taping over everything, and then attaching the pattern on tape. Yeah it's a little bit easier to pull off in the end, but it takes extra time and money to put it all on in the beginning. Now I just give the pattern a good spray of adhesive and slap it right on the wood. Maybe roll over it with or dowel or your hand to make sure it's really on there and you're good! It doesn't peel, even on delicate areas.

 

Take a towel, rag, or whatever you want with some mineral spirits when you're all done cutting and the pattern peels right off. You do have to let the mineral spirits dry, but it's not that big of a deal. Maybe like 30 minutes.

 

Maybe give it a try, at least when you cut BB.

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I used the blue painters tape for a long time and swore by it.  However I had the same issue as you along with the annoyingly long time it took me to remove it all from fretwork.  I recently switched to gluing the pattern directly to the wood and using Mineral spirits to remove it.  So simple that I can't believe I didn't do it earlier.  Pattern peals right off with no pulling up of the wood.  Also I noticed I had less of on issue with the pattern lifting during cutting as well.

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I still use the painters tape and to solve that problem, I lay the finished cut on my 6" sander for a good surface then sand the piece with a palm sander or my random orbit sander.  Cleans it up quick and as long as it is laying flat, shouldn't be a problem even on delicate work.

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I use the blue painters tape. Never experienced this problem on baltic birch. Sometimes it is tough to lift and get off but normally no issues. The trick of using mineral spirits works great but you have to let the piece dry for a day till you can put finish on it. That's the system Karl Taylor uses. And it works great. I just normally have the time to wait for additional chemicals to dry.

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That's happened to me from time to time.  It might be the difference between birch and baltic birch.  I usually don't think much of it as I give it a quick sanding afterwords too.  But if it becomes a problem, you can heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun.  That will soften the glue.  The trend lately has been people attaching the pattern directly to the wood and using Mineral Spirits  to remove the pattern.  Once the paper turns translucent, it practically falls off.

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I'm a blue tape guy also. I order 1/8 & 1/4" BB ply from here: http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htmand don't have a problem.

 

Also, I order "Good Both Sides" for fretwork. That way, if there is a blemish on one side, you can flip it over. I tape both sides for the strength. IF you do that, as soon as you put on the first row of tape, mark the top, because once it's covered you could put the pattern on the "wrong" side. For the number of hours spent on a piece, I feel it's inexpensive to buy "good both sides."

 

jerry

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  • 4 weeks later...

Take a look at the wood before you even start.  Mine has sort of a fuzz of tiny splinters all over it if I dont address it.

 

I use a pre stain type stuff which brings up the grain and then I sand it down real good.

 

To attach the pattern I use spray glue, a very light coat so it comes off easily.  very light being the key.  too much and it stick on there and you have to sand it off which creates a whole new problem.

 

No burrs or tiny splinters anymore.

 

 

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As I have stated before, I used the painters tape and a glue stick for years and I swore by it UNTIL I tried just spraying my patterns and putting directly on the wood. After I finish cutting out my pattern , I simply brush on paint thinner or mineral spirits and wait about 15 seconds and the pattern almost falls off on it's own, leaving what looks like a paper cut pattern. All in one piece. After I remove the pattern I run my finger over the wood, if there is any feel of residue on the wood, I dampen a cloth and run it over the wood , removing any residue that May be left behind. I find that any residue that gets left behind happens when I get in a hurry and try to remove the patter without waiting or if I have sprayed my pattern with an over needed amount of glue. The good thing is I never need to peel those numerous tiny pieces of painters tape from a fret work piece that has several hundred holes in it. It also does not have those tiny slivers of wood coming off any longer.

I buy my spray glue at Harbor Freight because they have a good brand at a really good price. Under ?$10 and the size is double others I see on the market. The brand is CRC. If you are not familiar with the company, let me tell you they have been around for a long time and I have been using their products since 1978.

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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Tried it a couple times way back but I now never apply tape to my plywood.  This goes for packing of clear tape.  This goes for Baltic birch or other types.  I apply my patterns directly to the wood using 3M Super 77 spray.  The only time I use tape is on hard woods and there I apply clear packing tape over the top of the pattern for lubrication purposes.  Part of my logic is like to play with the position of my patterns to take advantage of the character in the wood. I cut my patterns so I have very little waste showing and being able to see the wood helps be find the perfect position before the actual glue up.Being able to see the wood also helps to work around knots and defects that might ruin the project.

 

The cheapest place I have found for Super 77 Spray is Lowes.

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BEEN SCROLLING OVER 10 YEARS AND ALL I HAVE LEARNED IS FROM THIS AND STEVES FORUM.  I HAVE

TRIED DIFFERENT METHODS OVER THE YEARS FOR APPLYING THE PATTERN.  ALL MENTIONED ABOVE.

ALL SAID AND DONE I FINALLY DECIDED THE BEST FOR ME OVER-ALL IS TO SAND THE BLANK AND MAKE

IT AS SMOOTH AS A BABIES BOTTOM BEFORE STARTING WITH THE PATTERN.  SIMPLE AS SPRAYING THE

BACK ON THE PATTERN LIGHTLY AND APPLYING TO BLANK.  WHEN FINISHED CUTTING I SPRAY THE PATTERN

WITH MINERAL SPIRTS AND WITHIN ..A MINUTE..  ITS LOOSE ENOUTH TO REMOVE.  WIPE OFF EXCESS

SPIRITS WITH RAG AND LET DRY.  I ALWAYS GIVE A FEW HOURS BEFORE FINAL SANDING.  TA-DA.  Danny  :+}

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