Which foot switch

[Dennis51]

Which foot switch do you use: one which simply turns the saw on and off or one which requires you to maintain pressure on the switch to keep it running?

Thanks

Dennis

[don in brooklin on]

I own both.

On the Scroll Saw  I have the Deadman version (hold on to remain running).  If you want to stop you don't want to be fishing around for the switch.. Like if you break a blade.

I use the other version on my sanders (I have a max mop on one and  the other on a grinder set up with a sanding drum and a wonder wheel)  When I turn on it goes to a two way prong so my dust collect starts too.

The other is n my Dremel with a flex shaft.  That could be either.  

I got all mine from Harbor Freight.  

[FrankEV]

I got my "Power Maintained Foot Switch" at Harbor Freight. Less than $15.  Works good with out any problems so far (about 6 months).

[tomsteve]

deadman here,too. one thing i love about it is if i need the power shut down quick,just lift my foot.

[amazingkevin]

I made my own and still working since 2007 from a sewing machine foot switch. I had to by pass the resistor ,rather remove it and some other slight mod like adjust the points closer.

[Jim McDonald]

Deadman switch. Took me about 3 minutes to adapt to it several years ago and I sometimes forget the saw has a power switch.

Harbor Freight is the one to get. 

[Denny Knappen]

The same here, the deadman switch.  On both the EX21 and Pegas.

[scrollerpete]

I have both, in my shop I have on and off, with my Florida saw I have the deadman switch from Harbor Freight

[Roberta Moreton]

Deadman switch. Instant off.

[kywoodmaster]

Dead Man from Harbor Freight.

[Dennis51]

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll go up to Harbor Freight today for a deadman switch.

Dennis

[Gonzo]

Dead man here also. Well, not me, but the switch. Harbor Freight

[dvdneal]

Same as everyone else.  Dead man switch from Harbor Freight.  I like being able to lift the foot to kill the power when the saw scares the crap out of me by breaking a blade.

[Jim McDonald]

2 hours ago, dvdneal said:

Same as everyone else.  Dead man switch from Harbor Freight.  I like being able to lift the foot to kill the power when the saw scares the crap out of me by breaking a blade.

You just haven't broken enough!

My old Delta single speed would almost make my heart stop.

On the rare occasion I break one now, I barely notice 

[OCtoolguy]

On 10/17/2020 at 3:22 AM, FrankEV said:

I got my "Power Maintained Foot Switch" at Harbor Freight. Less than $15.  Works good with out any problems so far (about 6 months).

Frank, I have two of those switches and hated that the one cord came out of the side so I took both of them apart, drilled a hole in the front of the switch and re-routed the cord out the front. Now, both cords are at the front and it takes up a lot less room on the floor and is much more manageable. 

 

[Jim Finn]

It depends on what you are sawing.  If you are doing fretwork the dead man saw may be best (I do not do fretwork) While making toys and doing inlay I use the click on/click off switch from harbor freight. IF I want to have the saw stop quickly by just lifting my foot,  I start the saw then, as it is running, I step on the footswitch and hold it there until I want it to stop and then I just raise my foot and it stops.

[DRugerH]

Jim, The click on/off, it remains on when depressed until you lift your foot?  I've always used a dead man's foot pedal, but your way sounds interesting, and might come in handy for something, like, say, my spindle sander.  I sand instrument parts, and things can go awry quickly, so that idea might fit the bill for something like that.

Dan

[Woodrush]

If you sit, the deadman is the way to go. If you stand, get the on off

[Jim Finn]

On 12/7/2021 at 9:04 PM, DRugerH said:

Jim, The click on/off, it remains on when depressed until you lift your foot?  I've always used a dead man's foot pedal, but your way sounds interesting, and might come in handy for something, like, say, my spindle sander.  I sand instrument parts, and things can go awry quickly, so that idea might fit the bill for something like that.

Dan

Yes  that is how they work.  As I come near to the end of my cut, while doing inlay, I depress the foot switch and hold it .  I then release it when finished and the saw stops.  I use the Harbor Freight foot switches on my two scroll saws, drill press, and two stationary belt sanders 

[OCtoolguy]

Rather than start a new topic, since this one is regarding foot switches, I'll ask here. I know there is a very good reason why but I've not heard it yet. Why can't a variable foot switch like on a sewing machine be used to control a scroll saw? What I'm asking I guess is some explanation as to how they work and why they won't work on  scroll saw. I know there has to be a sound reason and I also know that there has to be someone her in The Village who knows and understands electricity and motors. Please, whoever answers, give as many details as possible. More than anything, I want to be educated on the subject. 

[preprius]

Ray,

deleted lot of stuff, miss understood intent of question.

Me.

Mark Eason

Edited January 16, 2022 by preprius
removed technical discussion

[OCtoolguy]

11 hours ago, preprius said:

Ray,

I make IC power controllers for my profession. 

I also have made LED light drivers that had to use dimmers. 

I just saw a variable speed footswitch type on youtube. This is like a light dimmer, or ceiling fan controller.   It uses a triac semiconductor to turn on the power to the motor at different phases of the AC sine wave.   The foot changes a resistor that triggers the Triac . The more you press foot the more of the AC cycle power gets used. 

Now depending on the scrollsaw they also have one in the unit.  Or they have a DC motor motor contoller.  

Having 2  AC dimmers in series won't work at all or might be really weird control.

Having an AC dimmer going to a DC controller circuit board would not allow the full cycle of AC to the internal power converter. It really is designed to have full AC cycle.  This setup would cause internal circuitry to be overworked and under powered. Higher heat buildup.

The internal power converters usually use a switching power supply with small transformers that switch at 80khz or faster.  Before the transformers are caps that can charge up to 200v (here in US). [115v x 1.414] , only if there if full ac cycles.  An IC turns on a FET transistor at 80khz. This short pulse turns on current through the small transformer and to the output of specified voltage,  maybe 24v.

If you have an exact schematic Email it to me.  I can help you understand it.

Me.

Mark Eason

What I am actually trying to get at is why does it work in sewing machines and nowhere else that I'm aware of.

[JustLarry]

Ray,  This is my understanding of why the sewing machine speed control will not work on a scroll saw.  It is because of the different type motors in use.  Scroll saws have a DC (direct current) motor.  The sewing machine has an AC (alternating current) induction motor. The speed of a DC motor is determined by the amount of current flowing through the brushes.  The DC motor is wound to produce a max speed at full current.  Example – a 12v DC motor will run at 7500 rpm when 12 volts enter through the brushes.  Drop the input voltage to 6 volts and the speed slows down to 3500 rpm.  This is done by a rheostat, the speed control on the saw.

 

The Alternating current is 60 cycles per second.  To change speed of an AC motor the current cycle need to be shortened.  This is done by using a variable frequency control, the sewing machine speed control.

[preprius]

@OCtoolguy 

 

Ok, my opinion..... Dimmers suck.

 

Edited January 16, 2022 by preprius
long winded technical stuff deleted.

[preprius]

I forgot to stop discussing technical enginnering on my posts.  So edited them out.

Me.

Mark Eason