Another Hummingbird - A project start to finish

[FrankEV]

This is the image of this hummingbird as I found it on the ZM Creations Website:

As you can see, the image is an illustration and therefore does not represent the image of a real Hummingbird.  However, I liked the artistry and simplicity of the illustration and I thought it would make a nice colored scroll saw fretwork portrait.   

These images are free to use so I just simply saved the image to my PC.  I then inserted the saved PNG image into the Inkscape program and did a “Trace Bitmap to obtain a scalable/editable line image. I edited the image (which was now a pattern) to eliminate unwanted lines and make sure I had no “islands (drop outs)”.  In this case I had to add a bridge to the eye center.  I then converted the black lines to a slightly pinkish red and infilled the cut out areas with light grey.  The finished pattern was sized to fit on a 9 1/4” x 12 1/4” inch panel that will be mounted centered onto an 11” x 14” backer.  Here is a picture of the finished t=pattern::

I trimmed a piece of 3/32” thick Solid Core Maple ply to  9 1/4” x 12 1/4”, sanded it smooth with 600 grit sand paper, applied the clear Duck brand shelf liner and used spray adhesive to attached the pattern to the panel.  This pattern was a real easy cut and only took me about one and one half hours.  This is a picture of the panel on the saw just before making the last cut out and a picture under the magnifying lamp:

 

  

 

I cut an 11” x 14” backer panel from 1/4” BB ply.   Since I the cut panel will be the light Maple color, I want the oversize backer to act like a dark black mat.  However, because the backer will be painted in colors under the cut out areas of the cut panel, I did not want to paint the entire baker black,.  I used painters tape to mask off the center of the backer and just spray painted the surrounding edge with a flat Black.   Here is a picture of that step in the process: 

 

After the paint dried I removed the tape to expose the unpainted center area.  The following pictures show the panel and the backer with black border together.  Note that I have not removed the pattern from the cut panel.  It needs to be kept as clean as possible during the painting process. The first laying askew, the second centered on the backer:

   

 

I then used painters tape to set the panel location on the backer.  The tape allowed me to remove and replace the panel in the same position repeatedly. 

 

After getting the panel centered, using the tape, I proceeded to use a mechanical pencil with the lead extended out so I could trace the outlines of the cut outs onto the backer.  (I broke a bunch of pieces of the pencil lead.)  The pencil lines are a little difficult to see because of the shadows but they are needed to show where to paint.

 

Next, I used Acrylic Craft Paints to fill in the areas behind the cutouts.  Sort of a paint by numbers like task but I actually extend past the lines to make sure no backer shows within a cut out area.  I paint one color at a time allowing drying time between each color, so as to not accidently smear the wet paint when trying to do a different color in the dame area.  As a result the painting process did take some time.  Also note that in the following pictures you will see that I took some liberties with my color selections and did not follow the original illustration exactly:  

    

The pictures above show the painting progress.  With Acrylic paints it is best to start with light tints and add shading with darker tints allowing time to dry in between coats.  Color mixing and adding the shading is not my strong suit but I’m learning. The last picture above shows how I overlaid the cut panel to check that I have not missed any areas within the cut outs and check if was happy with the colors that are showing.

 

When I was happy with the painting, I used Titebond to mount the cut panel to the backer.  After the glue dried I removed the painters tape and the pattern as  can be seen in the following pictures:

  

 

After some light sanding and signing the panel on the back with my wood burning tool, the panel got multiple coats of spray can clear Gloss Lacquer.  I did a very light sanding with 1500 grit paper between coats just to knock off the fine tooth the spray leaves.  At this point the panel was finished and it just needed to be framed. 

I had previously made a simple 1 3/4” wide Pine frame that just needed to be finished.  Since the black border was to act like a mat to separate the panel form the frame, I decided to keep the frame a light natural wood color.  I finished the frame, that had been sanded smooth with 600 grit wed dry sandpaper, with first, a pre-stain soft wood  conditioner followed by a coat of Minwax Natural Stain.  After the stain dried the frame was then protected with a two coats of Minwax Classic Oak/Polyurethane.  I decided to use the stain/polyurethane color just to tone the light pine color down a little bit.

I set the panel into the frame using framing points and a saw tooth hanger added.  Here are the pictures of those final steps framing steps:

  

 

The finished product!

 

 

I hope this documentation of this "Start to Finish Project" may have been helpful to some.

I'm attaching a PDF of the Pattern for anyone who might like to have it.

Hmbird5 - ZM Creations.pdf

 

 

 

[preprius]

This write up is very good. I like it because it touches every step. Thanks for pointing out the re-check for pattern issues. The added bridge to eye is a step I am referring to. 

Thanks for taking the time to document all the pictures. The documentation probably took longer than sawing time. 

Mark.

[FrankEV]

36 minutes ago, preprius said:

...The documentation probably took longer than sawing time... 

.

Atual cutting was real quick, only about 1 1/2 hours.  Editing the pattern did take a few hours.  Then all the prep and painting took up most of the time.  Probably about 10 hours, a little here and there, with drying time in between, over 4 days.  

Since I had decded to document this project, I would do a little, take the pics and write up the blurb.  So the project and the post got completed almost simutaneously.

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2021 by FrankEV

[amazingkevin]

Your keeping your skills sharp and in tac!!! Done like a pro!!!

[Ken Lotts]

Thanks so much for your detailed instructions!  It turned out super!  Very skilled with every aspect.

[planeur]

MAGNIFIQUE  Frank ! I like very much that kind of work, and thanks for the pattern !

 

planeur

[Frank Pellow]

Thanks Frank.  You did a great job both on the project and on the description of same.

[ben2008]

Very nice. Good looking project from start to finish.

[Scrappile]

Beautiful piece.... and thanks for the tutorial....  You certainly have "the artist's touch".

[down time]

Your attention to detail in both process and procedure is outstanding! I keep thinking about the tracing process with a mechanical pencil and extended lead must have been intense.

[Wichman]

Very nice Frank.

One question comment; what kind of pencil were you using for tracing the pattern?  I like to use Graphicgear pencils (Hobby Lobby), the slim nose and extended barrel allow me to get in tighter without extending the lead so much, HL also has additional packs of lead. Different grades of lead may have better breakage, I haven't checked that yet.

A couple of pictures of different pencil tips:

 

 

[FrankEV]

2 minutes ago, Wichman said:

Very nice Frank.

One question comment; what kind of pencil were you using for tracing the pattern?  I like to use Graphicgear pencils (Hobby Lobby), the slim nose and extended barrel allow me to get in tighter without extending the lead so much, HL also has additional packs of lead. Different grades of lead may have better breakage, I haven't checked that yet.

A couple of pictures of different pencil tips:

 

 

Actually, since I posted this tutorial, I have modified a number of the steps.  The pencil tracing of the cut pattern was just tooooooo much of a PITA.  I now just print out a couple more paper copies of the pattern and  use then as stencils.  I use an exacto knife to overcut the areas to be painted, but do so carefully so not to overlap colors.   I will use one or more paper stencils depending on the number of colors I need to paint.  Some can be used for more than one color.  The most dificult part of using the paper as stencil is making sure to establish some repeatable registration points.

I have also gone to using edge spacers to locate the cut panel rather than the tape.  The edge spaers locate the panel repeatably so I can verify the paint coverage/location is correct as I go.  Acrylics dry fairly quickly so I can check soon after applying each color to make sure all areas under under the cut outs are fully covered.  There is always some touch up needed!    

[Loskoppie]

will try to use your tips and try to do what you did.

Barbara Loskoppie

[don watson]

Thanks for this Frank. Such a useful and informed project, you have done very well with the making of this WIP and I thank you for your sharing of the pattern and the WIP. If you don't mind, I have taken a copy and hope to introduce this WIP to the learners at the 'Mens Shed' where I try to teach the scroll saw and its use. I am hoping to get the new out of town 'Mens Shed' up and running soon and this will be a definite in the library for my scroll saw pupils and as one of the keenest pupils is an International artist she will come in handy with the painting and other suggestions. I don't really know when this will happen as the Council have been reluctant to lease premises to us and are continually putting up objections. Hoping to see a change of attitude from them soon but it remains just a hope.

take care and stay safe

Don W 

[WolfmoonCT]

Love the finished work,and I love how you showed everyone step by step what you did to create it. Doing so can definitely help someone improve their work.  Great job. 

[Joe W.]

This is a perfect example of why I like this place.   Information you just can't find in DIY books.  
 

Nicely done Frank.  A work of art with a touch of class.  Thanks for sharing.