JTTHECLOCKMAN

I agree dipping is the easiest and most complete way of finishing a piece. As I said I used it as my top coat as well. People loved the feel of the smoothness of the wood. Has alot to do with sanding. I sand all pieces to 220 grit.

Oh I can relate to this. It will be my brother who discards my tools when I am gone. If I can not operate them any more in a few years they will sit there. Now I have sold off a few tools to make room for newer models. The next tool to go will be my Delta 12" planner. I am waiting to pounce on a deal for a Dewalt 735X planner as soon as I see Amazon runs one of those ridiculous sales like I seen them do before. My entire shop was built with Delta machinery when I first started. Best tools on the market at the time. Now not so much any more.

Besides all that if it is single speed or VS, footpedal with VS are not robust enough to control that motor. Besides who would ever want a foot speed controller. You have enough to concentrate pushing wood through a blade and following lines and now you want to sit there with your foot semi pressing to control speed. Just does not make sense whenever I see this question come up I cringe. Pick a comfortable speed and stay with it I can count on one hand the amount of times I changed speed on my RBI saws. Adjust your feed rate that is a speed controller. My opinion only. I can not say for certain if it will work on that motor or not. I do not know the ratings of the motor or the foot switch. This goes for drill presses too that use pulleys for speed control.

Gee Wiz . What if he sprayed the laser area with Shellac? Wonder what it is that causes that reaction. Is it all oils? What about a walnut oil being that is a walnut piece? Lacquer is harsher than any oils because of the hardeners in it. Now Danish oil has poly in it. Maybe that is the ingredient that causes this.

Sam just to be clear here so you do not blame me for any problems. If Kevin says there could be problems with the laser work then I would listen to him he is the king of the laser on this site. I have no knowledge. As far as spraying shellac and lacquers that is tricky. But it will not darken the woods so that is a plus. As I said I have used the dipping method my entire career of scrolling and used various of woods. Now I will tap the edge of the piece after dipping to shake any puddles of oil out. My method may not work for you. It is always hard to explain a method with words. Now any oil you use will darken the woods or give the lighter woods a more amber look. If you are going for clear finish than stay away from oils. Good luck.

No not a good idea. Never put a variable speed foot pedal on a variable speed motor.

No you have to wipe it down after you dip it. At times depending what type wood it may bleed some but if you wipe it down it should be fine. Danish oil does have a after smell and does take a few days to dry. I used Watco Danish oil on just about every project I made. Many times if I want a little more shine I wiped on a coat of Watco paste wax to really give a nice sheen. Just my way of doing things. If you are worried about pooling in nooks and crannys you can always air blow them out before they dry. The bottom lettering came out very nice and kind of figured it was not scrolled. I am sure it will be well received.

Very nice. I am trying to figure out how you did the lower lettering. Could you explain a little. Precision is excellent. Are they 3D letters added onto the face and did you make them? For finishing, depends on what is your version of finish. Are you looking to top coat after you seal the wood and with what. Most of all my projects when I was scrolling and selling were dipped in Danish oil. It leaves a sealed project and also a nice warm feel to the piece. Rarely did I top coat but if a piece called for it I always used lacquer. Never ever have I used poly. The poly that is in Danish oil is so small amount it just is there to seal the wood.

I believe you will have to look at coping saw blades for they are at least 6" long. You probably will be limited. Sears use to carry long scrollsaw blades but Sears is no longer. Another option would be to cut a bandsaw blade to length you need. 1/16" blades. https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/scroll-saw-blades/plain-end-scroll-saw-blades-5-in-6-in/6in-regular-tooth-blades-12-packs/

Yea I was being facetious. I do know how they clamp because as I said I owned a Hegner for quite awhile. But again they could have gone to a thru bolt like every other company to secure blades and used one size holder. To me another money grab for a saw that cost so much already. Stubborn to change too.

No, blades from different companies can vary as well as within the company. The thinner the blade the smaller the blade. The larger blades are thicker. Maybe call Hegner to see if they have a code that is somewhere written to identify which holder is which. I can not help there. I just found out there were 3 sizes. Have no idea why they would do that.

Check to see if the table is 90 degrees to the blade before you move the table. If it is then do as other suggested and move the table top.

Rest in Peace.

Isn't that like the locking knob on the Harbor freight saw. Out to unlock and in to lock. Just a guess. I have no knowledge of either saw.

Now that you mentioned it I remember my clamps had a dimple too. I never paid attention to it .I guess that is why I never had a problem because I always was in range of the blades I used. I never used less than a #5 or more that a #9. I switched right away to that knurled knob clamp and that I guess is a universal so did not see any effect there either. That actually is a good thing because it was so easy to tighten.

Well I just got educated. Not that it matters I do not have my Hegner any more. I did not know they made 3 different blade clamps and never used them I used the knurled knob type and never had a problem. I used all kinds of blades and sizes in that saw but mainly #7 when I was cutting baskets out. Times I switched to #9. I actually think that is one stupid set up now that I know. Was never informed from sales person and guess never read this in booklet. I really did not like their blade clamp holding system to begin with but it did work well. Is there numbers, markings, or some other indication to let people know what size they are so OP can check his?? That universal blade clamp is what I used. Now I assume the lower blade clamp needs to be matched with blades. Again I never did that and how did I ever cut as much as I did. I never snapped any bolts or broken a darn thing. Kevin you should stay away from machinery. You have to rebuild everything you touch. Just a side note. Back in 1993 those blade clamps were $13.95 per set. It is in their catalog back then and never paid attention I guess. Now the use of spiral blades, not sure how they work in those clamps maybe someone can comment on them too. They were not around when I bought my saw. I assume they too need certain size clamps per size blades.

Tom Hegner has one blade holder type so concentrate on that. Forget about all others for different saws. Learn on your saw which is an excellent saw. It is one of the top of the line saws out there. Forget about spiral blades for now. Again get them out of your mind. Next Blade brand is not important so again get that out of your mind. Down the road when you get the feel of what you are doing and want to do you can experiment and the experimenting will mean much more to you than right now. Flying Dutchman are excellent blades and the only ones I use. Other here like Pegas which too are excellent blades. FD blades can be gotten from Mike's Workshop. and Pegas blades can be gotten from right here Denny. https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ When you talk plywood I hope you are talking Baltic or Finnish Birch because they will not splinter as much and make for better more stable pieces. Cherry can burn but a good suggestion is to look through the threads here under blade selections and see he many answers or others will give suggestions. My go to blade for most any cutting I do is a #5 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Love those blades. Good luck and have fun.

More info needed. What does the locking pin do and why do you need it? Do you have a manuel to help troubleshoot? Isn'T one way is locked and other way is open? I can not find a video which shows it in action or even talked about.

I used a branding iron for many years and still do. It is the basic heat till ready to apply. After awhile you get a feel when that is and how many brands you can get before you have to reheat. To me works great I got a custom made one with my name. Man I tried to remember the name of the company but I do know I found them in the back of a woodworking magazine. After checking on a woodworking site to ask if they were any good I got the OK. I will look to see if I can find the name.

Man I tried that years ago when I had my old Dremel and can tell you in my case waste of time and effort. How much effort to fix assembly? That would be my suggestion. Maybe jury rig something to fix it. Others may have had better luck with the pumps.

I will tell you this, that most those clocks are cut with a CNC machine. To get accurate cuts with a scrollsaw is a huge task. The gears need precision in the teeth. Can it be done ye it has been but you are tweaking all the time(No pun intended) Good luck.

Glad you like the saw and the more you use it you will get to understand the workings and little tricks you can do to help things along more. Good luck. As far as clock patterns, yes check this site, and Steve Goods site for free patterns to get your feet wet. When you get more specific reach out and maybe we can steer you in the direction. Clocks are always fun. There are so many variety of clock to be made so you will have to decide which way you want to go. Using clock inserts is always the easiest way. But will say you are now adding an expense to the project so keep that in mind. Some clock works are better than others but you can get lemons in all. Good luck and welcome to my world. JTTHECLOCKMAN

Very nice piece and am sure will be well received. The painting thing becomes tricky because where do you really want to stop. You can do the packages. You can do the green on the wreath and so on. If it is a wood scrollsawn project it might be best to leave it as such. But agree painting the ribbon can enhance it some. Very nice and have a Merry Christmas.

Nice idea. Makes a nice keepsake.

Put a false table top and see how close to top you can get. Use up a few more teeth.