JTTHECLOCKMAN

I have been using these masks for so many years now and used them on the job site in construction as well so I guess I am used to to them and they work fine for me. I change masks regularly because if you take your mask off and lay it on a workbench for further use the dust that is in the air just gets inside unless you store in a container and what a pain that is. I always make sure to face the mask down when taking it off for the night and placing down on the bench. I always have a mask hanging around my neck for quick use when needed. Just something I grew use to and any mask is better than none. I sand my projects mostly outdoors but I still wear that mask when sanding. Kevin, Festool if you want top of the line vac. Quiet and efficient but pricey and you will pay for quiet that is for sure. Never was one for a vac system on a scrollsaw. sanders is where I would put a vac system but other tools other than a scrollsaw I use a shop dust collector system.

Jim "The Clock Man"

Jim what I am saying is leave the bike intact and do not put a clock in the wheels. Instead just make the base a little longer and put some sort of clock holder next to it. Be it may a round circle or some tool or object related to bikes and put it in that. My thought would just be a round circle as in the examples I show. On those military clocks the pattern never called for a clock but I added that next to the name of the branch of service. I do this alot on many patterns because I like clocks.

For doing scrolling and most woodworking in the shop I use a dust mask like this and never does it fog my safety glasses. I find this is all I need and I always wear one when cutting in the shop. But I also have my air cleaner running while in the shop. If use fumes I switch to a charcoal filter mask http://www.emedco.com/3m-8210v-n95-particulate-respirator-8210v-6279c.html?utm_campaign={*campaignid*}&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content={*creative*}&utm_term={*keyword*}&matchtype={*matchtype*}&device={*device*}&adgroupid={*adgroupid*}&msclkid=88598bc257c7100829cbd117a2fb3817&gclid=COjKg-qzwdoCFYzMswod40AFGQ&gclsrc=ds

You can always add a clock to the side of the bike and not alter it. Very easy to do that too. I probably would do that because the detail on the bike all around is very nice.

You do own a scrollsaw. No forstner bit needed.

I am not getting older I am getting younger. I reached the half way point so now I am working my way backwards. Hope to pass as a kid. I learned everything I could and now as I get younger I can compare my knowledge to when I was younger. It is the cycle of life. I can, t say I forgot I say I never learned it yet.

Many people make their own version by scrolling a handle or knob and drill the center out and epoxy the screw in. example: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/08/diy-replacement-knob-for-sore-hands.html

I have to say I must be getting senile or something but I just realized something today that you are on the IAP pen turning forum also. Now I do not go there as much as I use to for various reasons but stopped there after I visited here today and noticed the same photo and put 2 and 2 together and came up with 5. Wonder how many others are on both sites. Many times I do not pay attention to names and just read the threads. I would not make a good witness in a crime. Officer: what color clothes was he wearing ?? Me: was he wearing clothes??

If I were to use the pattern the way it was drawn I would use a 2" insert on the front wheel. Definetly not the back because I think the chain linkage is a nice touch. If i were to shrink it then use a smaller insert. Depending what your concept of clocks are that you make will determine the size I would think. Also I would not do any fret work in the wheel.

I have to say this thread has been some of the most enjoyable reading I have done here. It is great that many people remember exactly when, how and who influenced them. It seems these same people are still enjoying this great hobby after many years and some maybe just beginning. To be able to take an artform and transform it into a 3D rendering of hand made work. The sense of accomplishment when done and to top it off people want to give you money for your efforts. To see the smiles on peoples faces when they see your work and purchase it weather it is a gift for giving or for themselves. It is a great accomplishment to go into the shop and smell the scent of wood dust and fumes of finishing agents and the sounds of the saws make it all so real and fantastic. To be able to sit in front of this machine for hours on end and turn out project after project. Maybe give some away or donate for raffles or just for fun it still is pretty amazing what we scrollers can do. I want to thank the fellow scrollers that shared their stories here and hope others will add to them and take the time to read what got others to this calm and relaxing place, behind a simple machine that all it does is makes a thin small blade go up and down and at the back end some wonderful projects emerge. Happy Scrolling.

What are you talking about?? It is a double tooth skip blade. 2 teeth per skip and that by no means will slow you down. Try the Penquin silver reverse. That is my favorite and go to blade of all time. Just maybe a different blade from what you are use to. Maybe you had blade in upside down and yes it could happen. I scroll red oak with the blade I mentioned and sometimes 3/4" and never had sawdust pulled up stroke like you are saying. As far as cutting slow man I can not talk to this because either I am just satisfied of cutting slow with never being in a hurry or my saw just cuts differently than everyone elses saw on this forum Keep hearing about RBI saw cutting slow and now FD blades cutting slow. You people must be heck on the highways. 75mph is not fast enough I assume.

yes Kevin. Typo.

never used them but is this the same type blade as the FD scroll reverse blade and the Olson precision ground blade?? These are blades that are not stamped but milled.

I too have wayyyyyyyy too magazines and I am looking for a place to sell them or give them away. I hate to throw them away. I use to get so many wood magazines and after awhile they all talk about the same things and become redundant. Didn't that scrollsaw club use to have a magazine. Scrollsaw Association of the world or something like that .?? Does anyone still belong to that?? I remember when they first started and they tried getting everyone to join and create this huge scrolling club. Whatever happen to that???

Boy some really nice shops here. Some nice machinery too. I need to sort through some very hardly used tools and have a tool garage sale one of these days. My furniture days are over and if there is anything to be made smaller tools can do the trick. Really need to organize my basement shop. No photos from this shop.

Special, there is nothing special. It is a blade I settled on to cut just about anything I throw at it. There are so many specialty blades but bottom line find a blade you like and stick with it. I do not find a need to try different companies blades or different styles of blades. I like these and have been using them for a very long time. In fact even though I still had plenty I ordered more when I ordered the superior puzzle blades. Now those can not be subsituted for the Penguin silvers. http://mikesworkshop.com/products/penguin-silver-reverse The double tooth is good to clear saw dust and keep scrolling and they last a super long time. As I mentioned before on my Hawk I can scroll multiple projects with one blade. I don't like the question about aggressive blade. All blades are aggressive depending on if you match the blade to the product you are cutting. Get over 3/4" and of course even I have to step up to a larger more robust blade or it will bend and distort. You set the aggressiveness by either the saw setting or your pushing and feeding of the material. In scrollsawing it is not like cutting wood with the grain and against the grain because you are constantly doing both. On a table saw you can use a rip blade or crosscut blade. No such thing with a scrollsaw blade. Now different blades will cut differently but that is something that needs to be found out by user because my use is not the same as anyone else's and there is no way to compare such things. getting of course here but that is my 2 cents worth. By the way I never tried Pegas blades and never will. have no need to. I have used Olsons when I first got into this because I use to buy Delta blades which were Olson blades. I did use a very good blade for some time called Tiger Teeth blades and they were sold through Steebar back when I worked for them. They were a German blade also. Very good quality blade. Not sure if the new owner is still selling and using the same distributor.

My blade I use the most and I scroll oak walnut maple and mahogany with a FD #5 silver reverse blade. Have been using them for many years and I have tried alot of blades.

Do these people have to sign on your phone or does the chip eliminate that and can you take cards with chips too?? This summer I am going to look into this deeper.

Means 1" approximately in the hardwood industry. 5/4 = 1-1/4" , 6/4 = 1-1/2" and so forth. I would not accept it either. That is false representation unless it is stated somewhere in the sales tag. Not acceptable to a reputable hardwood dealer.

Good to hear some good news about an early craft show this year. Would like to hear more about square reader. I asked this question in another thread so have some info. I plan on getting this because it seems the way of today. I do not have a smart phone so need another device to get and was wondering how you or anyone else handles this square reading thing. I do not mean to hijack this thread. Sorry.

Ray I am enjoying everyone"s story also. I see the same things you are. I also see that many times the story starts from parents, grandparents and the roots are deep. It is good to see that people continue to enjoy doing this. Most for the fun and hobby aspect but maybe picking up a few $$$ to support the habit. Therapy as some have put it is good. Ranger Jay brings up a great point about using found wood to make outstanding projects as well. Hope many others join in and share their journeys as to the path they took to get here behind the scrollsaw.

I did not notice that so I am guessing no Home Depots??? My point is he did not post what he wanted to use it for. If this is an outdoor thing on a fence gate then why wood. Get something that will stand up to weather. Now if this is for a project that is smaller in scale and indoors you still need more tools than a scrollsaw to pull it off was my point. Now because I do not draw well and can not make patterns, I suggest 2 levers or bars on both sides of the fence tied together so that what you do from one side the other side operates too. Simple latch. That is all I have without more info.

I put a smiley face after it. Not enough for you??? Sorry We are all winners here. But I do respect your words. Travis has done a great job with the site and it is good to come to a scrolling site that is informative and entertaining. Keep on scrolling!!!

How much room do you have?? they do take up valuable landscape. If you are seriously getting into projects that require frames then maybe it would be a good idea to streamline your projects to sized projects and have frame material ready for assembly at a moments notice. In other words if you are using one or two types of material for your frames, cut the sides up to standard length and store them that way. When you need a frame just pull from inventory the pieces and assemble. This will cut down on space taken up. I do not make many projects with frames o I custom make my frames when needed.