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loftyhermes

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Everything posted by loftyhermes

  1. Brenda, if you're thinking of using a foot switch and your saw has a NVR switch on it, it will need bypassing. I have a Draper foot switch that came with a saw I bought and it works well, it plugs into the wall socket and has a trailing socket to plug the saw into. Which ever switch you decide on make sure it's a deadmans switch, ie a non-latching one, on when pressed, off when foot off.
  2. Your corner is too tidy, not enough sawdust or off cuts lying about.
  3. Brenda, it was the first but it probably won't be the last time you do that.
  4. Danny, I'm in the UK and I've used 3M, Bostik, own brand from local craft shops and now currently using one from Crafters Companion, all re-positionable. All performed the same. I now buy when on offer, that's why I'm using the one from Crafters Companion which I think I'll stick to because of the price and a local shop.
  5. Danny, if you use re-positionable spray adhesive on the back of the pattern you can just pull it off and it leaves little or no residue on the wood that soon goes when given a light sanding. I've been using this system for over 20 years and it's been problem free.
  6. Not sure I should say this but I have an old Racal Airlite respirator, (no longer made), a Sundstrom half face mask and loads of disposable masks. Do I wear them? mostly no by the time I've thought about putting one on I've done the cutting it's only if I've a big job to do that I even think about putting one on. I also have a vacuum I can connect to the saw to collect the dust, do I switch it on? Again no. I also have ear protectors again they're left hanging up when scrollsawing. Brenda, if your glasses steam up with masks then the best solution is an air fed visor like the Airlite, there are several cheaper brands of this type of mask, or try something like the Sundstrom, it doesn't steam up my glasses like disposable ones do (when I wear it). You could also try ear plugs instead of muffs.
  7. Brenda, I was typing to tell you that but you've figured it faster than I can type.
  8. You can bend thin wood with heat, Google bending iron.
  9. Doh!! Forgot the link. https://www.proopsbrothers.com/magnifying-lamp-light-3-magnfication-daylight-bulb-perfect-for-beauty-craft-hobby-dental-etc-v5100-844-p.asp
  10. I had to Google Torrified Maple and it's wood that's baked in a vacuum.
  11. I have one of these, it's brilliant when needed, not that I need it all the time. (been to Specsavers you know.)
  12. No Brenda, I've made those kind of decisions, the trick is to learn from them. I no longer set any time limit on projects now, they're done when I'm ready and in the right mindset.
  13. I sit and also have the saw tilted, just on a piece of 4" x 2". Bench height and saw position are very much down to personal preference so experiment before finally fixing everything down.
  14. It was the next morning Marg, he got up and said his legs ached but that soon went and he was back to his normal self.
  15. Thanks for the comments, I do like taking the old saw out to demonstrate, it's amazing how many old boys come and say that they or their dad had one of those when they were young, sometimes it was used in the kitchen.
  16. Just done a two day craft fair at Papplewick Pumping Station, http://www.papplewickpumpingstation.co.uk with my 5 yr old grandson and between us we managed to cut a Giraffe (he peddled) as well as some keyrings and other stuff on a Hobbies A1 treadle saw. So as a thank you for his help I made him this Steve Good Toy. ball toy.mp4
  17. Welcome Don, enjoy your stay.
  18. Don, In Inkscape I trace the pattern then with the trace selected right click on the colour red at the bottom of the screen and then click on set stroke.
  19. I use a chuck like John but mine came out of an egg beater hand drill and had a plain shaft so I just put that in the drill press chuck.
  20. Brenda is in the UK and Sloan don't ship outside the US.
  21. Brenda, nobody knows what they don't know, I only know what I know . They're just ordinary HSS drill bits. The smallest drill bit I use is 1mm, it allows all my blades up to No. 5 to go through. Sometimes if there is space I will use a larger bit just to make threading the blade easier. One thing to remember about small bits is having a chuck that will hold them, I had to take the chuck off of a hand drill to put in the pillar and cordless drill to hold the 1mm bit. You will need a chuck that closes to zero. If you have a Boyes shop close by they do 1mm bits in packs of 10, also available from mail order suppliers like from here, https://www.ukdrills.com/hss-drills/hss-metric-drill-bits and most drill bit suppliers. Screwfix, Wickes, B&Q and the like will have them but will be dearer. Also if you do markets and car boots look out for them there.
  22. If you're thinking of using ebay or etsy then work out what fees will be charged and don't forget paypal charge as well if you use it. A lot of folk, myself included, have used facebook to sell stuff with no problems.
  23. Congratulations on getting the saw and the haggling. I'm sure you will be happy with it.
  24. Niqua blades are available mail order from several UK suppliers as are Pegas. When I first started scrolling I had some of every size of blade but now I've come down to 3. Sizes 2/0, 3 and 5 all Niqua and with reverse teeth.
  25. Get that Axminster up and running, it'll be a lot easier.
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