kmmcrafts

Are you talking about the big bearing inside that big aluminum block on the end of the motor? or the bearings on the flat stock that runs from the motor to the lower arm? I replaced the bearings in that part from the motor to the lower arm on my Ultra.. and i tried to get the block off the end of the motor but I couldn't get it separated and didn't want to break what wasn't yet broke.. I did get the block loose from the motor but I couldn't get it off the motor shaft still.. I had the set screws out.. but I never did figure out how to get to that bearing.. I know in one of the videos on the hawk website that the big bearing or maybe the one inside the motor was getting hot on some saws and was damaging the motor or the bearing and people run it until the motor shaft broke.. Really wanted to check / change mine but not being able to get it apart I figured I'd run it until i had problems.. since the ones that was really the bad ones was the smaller ones in the connecting rod / pitman arm whatever you call it, LOL

Glad to hear another one is getting interested... I had to laugh about the blades though.. My kids have interest but it's like a last resort from boredom before they'll go cut something... I think as they get older they'll at some point pick up more interest.. Now.. my one son that's big on computers and electronic.. he has showed some interest in the CNC.. That'd be nice because I don't seem to have a lot of interest in it like I do with the scroll saw.. but i blame that on the fact I have very little idea of what I'm doing on it too, LOL

Anything against zoo animals? a can of paint can change everything.. Now you have a cat, LOL.. Tell them to stay back as the cat might have the virus cause he makes a moo sound like a cow...

I have several of those style that you mention.. The local Finish Master still stocks them on their shelf.. I have all sorts of sanding blocks with different contours etc for doing bodywork.. Now days though they use a lot of flexible rubber / sponge like sander blocks etc... I have those too and those work awesome for wet sanding etc..

Seems like you’d wear out your shoes really fast doing that. Next time I go jogging before I come back in I’m going to sand the sole’s down .

Good question Ray, I don't have one but used to use them in high school wood shop.. But that was so long ago I can't remember the results of whether they helped at all or not, LOL.. For the past several years I've use the cheap HF sanding belts for my belt sander and the grit wears off long before the paper gets clogged up.. Back in the older days sandpaper used to clog up kinda bad.. maybe it was cheap paper then? Maybe more advancement has been made in sandpaper making.. so it doesn't seem to clog up ( on me anyway ) so I've never really had the need for something like this.. Those cleaning sticks remind me of a bar of beeswax.. maybe it is, LOL Be interested to see what others say about this..

Yeah, being in the autobody business for a lot of years sandpaper is the main thing used for body work.. In that world.. it's important to change up paper often.. I don't think for the most part scroll work is nearly as important to change it often like that.. Time is a huge factor in the body shop business.. You can achieve the same results with 600 grit as you can with 1000 grit.. but with the 1000 you'll be adding an extra hour or more sanding... a lot of the work is done by hand ( no power sanders ) so if you don't change often your arm will feel it by the end of the day, LOL Most people don't go much beyond 400 grit with woodworking.. and actually rarely do I see many going past 220.. I don't "try" to get a lot of miles out of my paper either... But there is a big difference in different types and materials of various sandpapers sold.. sometimes you get what you pay for and other times you just get ripped off.. and not really know it until someone mentions an experience they have.. That Norton brand stuff was good stuff too... In fact.. if I recall correctly.. it's what Kingspor sells and many other places sell it too under various names.. Anyway to my point.. This Diablo paper is really about the same price as the Norton brand that I had been using.. At the end of the day it's cheaper if it's lasting me 2-3 times longer.. I've often thought about ordering Kingspor papers.. But I'm also BIG on supporting my local stores and the price isn't a big enough savings to take the $$ out of my small local family run lumber store.. If I don't support them and they close up.. I'm stuck ordering my supplies online.. I like to sort through my BB ply sheets to "pick" my sheets..

I use a Bosch R/O sander.. I buy the refurbished ones.. I'll say though.. just checked this link and the price has jumped up considerably.. many times they're on sale etc for about $35.. I have two of them.. and the first one is about 10 years old.. and had a lot of use.. https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-bosch-ros20vsc-rt-5-in.--vs-palm-random-orbit-sander-kit-with-canvas-carrying-bag/bshrros20vsc-rt.html

I always had my Norton brand sanding paper as a favorite for the last several years.. Harbor Freight sells the Norton brand... however I didn't always buy it there.. I always bought the blue color from Menards.. Anyway, a couple months ago at my local lumber supplier I seen they had some packs of Diablo papers.. They have a "SandNet" paper that is supposed to be real good but I just bought the plain old hook and loop disc.. So far I've only used the one set ( different grits ) of disc that I took out of my 50 pack ( I think it's a 50 pack ).. Normally I swap out papers about once a week.. sometimes more sometimes less.. I'm 3-4 weeks in on this first set of disc and the heavier grits still going pretty strong but the fine (220) is getting worn down and needing replaced.. That's partly because I do use the finer grits more run time on them.. that was always the same case with the Norton brand too.. Anyway, I like it so well that I thought maybe worth mentioning to you all.. The sales guy at the lumber store ( also woodworker ) said the "SandNet" papers are real good but he said he thought it was best in the finer grits.. like 320 and higher is where that stuff shined a lot better.. He said the coarser grits it does last longer.. but maybe not so much to make the higher price jump.. I don't know as I have no experience with it.. just what he said.. https://www.diablotools.com/explore/sanding

If you have a metal file you can cut some scratches on the sides of the blade to act as a sander too.. Put the blade in the saw and tension it.. raise the arms so the blade is in the up position.. run file front to back to create some scratches on the sides of the blade.. amazing how well those scratches will work as sanding paper.. Takes some playing around but it does work.. a coarse file will create a "grittier" more aggressive sanding than a fine file will..

my brother gave me a pile about two times that size of walnut.. customer brought in the logs and had him custom saw it.. he paid my brother for cutting it and everything... that was about 15 years ago.. he never come picked it up.. my brother tried many times to get in contact with the customer.. He told me I could have it if I haul it out of there and out of his way.. Same thing with a pile about half that size with Maple... I've gotten a lot of good lumber salvaged from those piles.. and still haven't put a dent in them yet.. LOL I do wish I had a drum sander... I learned quick to run old planer knives for the first couple passes of this... a lot of dirt and grit and get into the wood pores from years of sitting.. Needles to say... I have a brand new set of worn planer knives,

I cut everything from 1/8" and stack cut between 4-6 at a time.. Of coarse I'm a seller so the more I do in one cutting helps keep the price down.. Only 1/4" I use is backers for the most part... That said.. most backers are a contrasting ( usually walnut ) 1/4" plywood material... not much for BB backers and stained.. I guess that method doesn't float my boat... but to each their own..

I bought about 20 sheets at the beginning of the year.. I still have about half of it left... because I've been working with hardwood the last two months now, LOL.. Got a lot of hardwood to go through before I run out.. don't think I could run out if i tried this year and maybe half of next year, LOL .. But once I start kicking out the ornaments again this early summertime..... that BB ply will be gone in a couple weeks easily.. so hopefully things will be open back up by the time I need it..

I'd trade that blade for my new one that came with my DeWalt 10 years ago.. Mine was so sharp it cut through 2 x 4 faster than the table saw did.. but too sharp to do any of my fretwork... so I've been buying used blades off eBay..

That's really cool.. amazing work he does.. My first thought when he showed those sheets he glued up was plywood.. but it was just a sheet of glued sticks.. crazy talent there..

Nice work there.. Job well done on both pieces... I'm hoping with the warmer weather moving in that I'll get some time to play around with my CNC.. My thought was with all the workers out of work and the uncertainty in the world I might get a lot of down time to play around with my CNC or Laser... However it seems many must be home shopping online.. I've been quite busy and very thankful for that as I need it more now than ever before.. as they've cut my wife's hours but thankful that she is still able to work and work from home to boot so no complaints..

I think what you're describing is how I watched them do this on the PS Woods saw demo video... which I've heard is much like a Hegner..

Maybe that is why I've gone through my whole gallon this time... No frig.. but it stays out in the cold shop ( no heat ) and this time my gallon is almost gone... and that usually doesn't happen for me.. Though another thing I've done too is to shake the can up good before opening / using it.. and when mine goes bad it's more about getting moisture I think.. as it gets thick but also turns a milky look to it like a small amount of water got in from the can sweating.. I need a new can.. but not going out to get one until the Corvid19 disappears... May have to mail order me one.. I get about 4-6 months to a gallon.. and only have about a pint or maybe a little more in my tin now..

Yes that is what they're doing... I skip the tape layer.. I don't like tape on top of a pattern as for me it seems to put a line of sawdust in front of my line or something.. and makes the line harder to see " for me" Maybe my style of cutting or the blades I use... not sure... but I just don't like tape on top.. so I avoid it when I can.. there are times I need it for strength or something but for the most part I don't use tape..

No those are half sheets.. I use full sheets.. when searching use the words full sheet shipping labels or 8.5 x 11 shipping labels.. make sure you're getting self adhesive too as well as it saying peel and stick.. easier to peel also if you get them that are cut or scored on the back.. These are what I order but most of you could probably get away easily with 100 - 200 sheets and last for a long time.. I order 1000 sheets at a time.. typically anyway as the larger quantity also gets a lower cost per sheet too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Edit to add: I always used these to print my mailing labels too so that is another reason to order in bulk.. However last year I bought a thermal label printer so I no longer use these full sheets for the actual intended use ( labels ).. I may scale back to ordering them 500 at a time.. Just think about how many projects you cut and how many sheets of paper you use.. order accordingly.. or do a small order to be sure you like doing this in this way.. Used as shipping labels I always cut them in half.. as a standard shipping label size is typically 4 x 6.. so in this case there is two labels per sheet.. I mail out around 400 - 500 packages a year.. a 1000 labels usually got me through a year.. But now I use the new thermal label printer.. 500 sheets is probably get me through a year..

Glad to see others like using the shipping labels.. I've been using them for around 10 years now and not ever had any issues with them.. Other than at first when i thought maybe I could stick them directly to the wood.. if you do that.. it's hit or miss.. sometimes they'll peel right off and other times they are stuck for good, LOL Many times I cut a full sheet into a half sheet.. Grizz, You mentioned doing ornaments.. If you get a ornament that is in the center of the page when printing.. I found that if I crop the ornament down to almost to the edges of the ornament then save a copy.. Go to the saved copy location on your computer.. but do not open it up.. instead right click it.. select print... a window should open up with "photo printing options" and it will give you photo size options to print from.. I select the size 3.5 x 5.. select fit to frame box at bottom.. then you can select up to 4 prints.. this will print this pattern 4 times on the one full sheet.. or cut sheets in half and select 2 prints then you're not wasting a full sheet for 1 ornament.. I'm running windows 10 so if you're using a different system then this may not work.. I also use this to resize things.. for instance.. Iggy's animal puzzle patterns.. I will select 5 x 7 prints and many times it prints out at a ornament type size for making them into ornaments instead of puzzles.. Hope this helps you save some papers.. and gives you more ornament designs to work with.. Enjoy making sawdust, Now I gotta get to work.. must be everyone on lock down from this virus deal is shopping... I'm sorta busy for this time of year..

I never seem to have wax paper here at the house... If I buy it then someone uses it before I get to use it.. I started using a plastic garbage sack and that seems to work well for me.. I pour a pile of glue and use a plastic body filler spreader to spread the glue around as evenly possible into a large enough area that will cover the entire project.. and then I dip that back side of the cutting into the spread around glue and lift it off and stick it to the backer board.. I'm not sure what type of work you're messing with as you mentioned working with layers.. I only used this method for gluing backers onto cuttings.. so maybe this isn't the info you was looking for.. Here is the spreader things I mentioned.. heard old credit cards etc work well too... I use these in the body repair work so I always have them on hand anyway.. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-putty-spreaders-20-pc-69564.html

For the fuzzies... I typically stack cut everything I make.. and especially portrait style stuff that I use the spirals for.. Before I separate the stacks I use my RO sander and sand the back as best I can.. The very bottom of the stack always seems to be the worst one.. but the others do get some fuzzies too.. Then run a small handheld LP torch around the cuts after I separate the stack.. seems to work very well for me.. BUT.. I don't use the spirals real often.. typically only on portraits and I cut very few of those as they just don't sell very well for me.. also depends on the portrait too.. many of them I do just use straight blades for as well.. so it does depend on the cutting too..

the majority of the time I spin the board around a bit so as to cut from the front of the blade as if it's a flat blade.. I will cut from the sides on slight curves etc.. but the majority of cutting it the front.. That said.. I sometimes will take the blade out and re-install it so I can make use of the teeth on the back side too... since I rarely cut on the back portion of the blade..

This is Harvey Bylers Pattern and Iggy ( Scott) has them on his website.. woodcraftbyscott .com I think is the site..