kmmcrafts

It wouldn't matter to me what size it is as long as the price is good.. I'm not willing to pay more for a different size.. I also have them cut it down for me.. I usually just have them cut into 3rds. approx. 20"slices so it's easier on my small cheap table saw to cut them down to size.. It's nice that they cut them for free ( for the first 10 minutes of cutting ). I'm a level 4 buyer so I get the 1/8" for $11 and $15 for the 1/4".. I use mostly the 1/8... The larger 4 x 8 sheets I also have them cut down so as I said... don't matter to me what size sheets they are.. I'm just looking at the price anyway.. They know me so well yet they make sure to tell me every time that they charge after 10 minutes of cutting.. funny cause the guy inside tells me this... then the guy outside also tells me this when I get out there.. even if there is only 1 cut, LOL

I just run across this on one of the FB groups.. Also note about formaldehyde at the bottom I thought was interesting as that had been a hot topic over the years.. https://wolstenholme.com/plywood-products/baltic-birch/?fbclid=IwAR3KaFoa7EmI6IHba5UbtRJHV2KQbfQZBZYYlYEJSXF5sb2s62i5B3Gb2ps

Made from an old pallets?

Thanks for all the input on this.. Been an interesting topic for me. I found a cheaper source for that dust deputy knock off and can get them for $10 each. LOL That said though, I bought the Dust Right system back a few months ago.. Seems like it's working pretty good and certainly better than no separator at all like I was using, LOL.. You all brought up a valid point and that was big bulky.. That's kinda my bigger complaint of the DR that I have.. It's about the size of my large shop vac.. I didn't think it was going to be that large when I got it.. I'd like something smaller that'd fit under the saw stand.. Seeing the Seyco dust vac system all contained to the saw and stand is something I like.. and I thought maybe the DD system was actually that small.. But you all are pointing out that isn't the case.. Wonder where Ray sources that little mini cyclone from for his vac system.. I might look into the DD that Les talks of.. I might be able to put that onto a small bucket..

Yeah my understanding is that it's a "USA" copywrite.. some of the other countries can get away with it.. They are all over etsy and amazon handmade with these record cuttings and the majority are copywrite / trademarked themed items.. I believe they are cut with a laser too...

Yeah sounds like a better job for a drum sander

Looks like a large role of vac hose coiled up under the vac.. I saved the picture and zoomed in, LOL

And there you have it.. I do remember the sleeves being different.. same bearing just a longer sleeve I think.. Thanks Jim for the refresher..

I thought about that too..

Are you talking about plywood? No way would I run plywood through my planer.. the glues in ply are tough on blades.. and imagine they'd chew through a set of planer knives pretty quick too.. plus the ply's aren't very thick themselves and who knows what grade of wood is underneath that you'll end up with.. If I need a certain thickness then I use a solid wood.. Not to mention.. could be dangerous if the ply decides to separate.. You might be throwing chunks out of either end of the planer.. damaging the planer or injuring yourself..

I don't recall that on here... but several years ago there was a topic in one of the magazines.. They made Christmas ornament snow flakes out of old cd's It was a while ago because I think it was before DVD's came out..

I don't remember for sure now... but I don't recall changing out any bearings or sleeves when I upgraded my EX-21 to the Pegas clamps.. Anyone done this recently that can jog my memory on this? I'm wondering because you say if we have the upgraded chucks that we can get those bearings too.. which has me confused because as I said.. I don't recall changing anything.. But maybe I did?? Also was under the impression that the Pegas had a smaller bearing in the rock shaft at the back of the saw... Maybe the same rock shaft with a smaller I.D. bearing and sleeve? I don't know but Bob has mentioned numerous times about the smaller bearing.. Honestly unless it's someone I know is very mechanical inclined I rarely believe anything they say about mechanical stuff until i take it apart myself.. Sorry but it's the years and years of building / rebuilding and restoring cars that make me a dis-believer of things.. Especially where cars have so many split year parts where they redesigned something mid- year.. Ford was terrible with that in the late 70's - late 80's.. maybe still that way, LOL.. Anyway enough of the non believing stuff.. assuming the parts are in fact the same... will they be putting these parts on a website or just have to call Bob or a Pegas distributor?

Agree with Larry.. A lot plays a role in blade life beside what you're cutting.. like.. how hard you feed the wood to the blade and how straight on you're feeding the blade.. If you push slightly to one or the other side of the blade then the blade gets hot and weakens it.. thus dulling the blade quicker.. I've had people tell me you cannot run a saw full speed with cherry without burning the wood.. I disagree with that..... I cut mostly cherry.. and almost always run my saw full speed.. I've burnt cherry more by running the saw slow.. which made me "push" harder than i should have which created heat.. so you have to find that perfect blade for the project that works for you so you're not pushing through but rather just letting the blade do the work. So with that all said.. You have to find a blade that you're comfortable with the cutting at hand.. and for a newbie.. you just gotta "try" things to find what works best for "you"

Is that cyclone on the Seyco unit the smaller dust deputy? I'm really curious on that system.. wish someone local had one I could look at in person, LOL.. Maybe I just order it and see for myself, LOL

That is what I'm sort of thinking too.. By the time I chase down the vac, hoses, dust separator, fittings, nozzle etc etc etc.. for me I'd have as much $$ in fuel and research to buy the one already to mount up and plug in.. I do think the canister is a bit small for my cutting but who cares if I have to empty it daily.. I vacuum the saw and floor every day when i'm done anyway.. Then again.. having it all self contained to my saw is nice too.. could just throw the saw in the car and have the whole dust collection ready to go when I go camping.. LOL

I've gotta admit.. The arm going up buy itself is a thing I've grown used to on the Hawk.. Even though I used to have to hold it up out of the way on the DeWalt years ago.. LOL Can't imagine going back to a saw that the arm doesn't move on like the old Dremel I used to have, LOL Funny how we get used to using something.. Love the Hawk when a blade breaks.. The upper arm pops up out of the way and no chance of having it stab me like some of the older saws would do if you didn't get it shut down or move your hand fast enough.. LOL..

I've never measured the sawdust.. but on my Hawk Ultra the blade is back behind the angle adjustment.. on a warmer weather good shop working day.. I'll have the sawdust pile back there so high I have to move the peak of the pile down to change the blades as the sawdust is hitting the lower arm.. I'd be surprised if that isn't at least a pint jar full.. But it might not be.. you know when a car leaks a few drops of oil the stuff spreads and looks like a quart of oil on the ground, LOL so maybe it's not as much as I think it is..

I was going to put that same Big Max heater in my shop.. but was told I can't because it's a open flame heater and isn't good for a wood shop or any shop with flammable vapors.. Before you go buy one.. I'd talk to someone that knows the codes and regulations for the type of application you'll be using it for.. My insurance company said they wont insure my shop if i have one of those in my wood shop.. They have closed flame gas heaters similar to these.. but they price tag is nearly triple too.. LOL.. Guess I'd rather pay more and have insurance than to burn my shop down..

Anyone have any experience with these China knock-off dust separators?? Looks like the Oneta brand mini one.. I seen these last summer and was going to buy one.. kept putting it off and they disappeared offline... now I see they're back in stock.. My brother inlaw bought two of them but I never seen them in person.. and he's not using them for sawdust collection.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cyclone-Powder-Dust-Collector-Filter-Power-Separator-vacuum-cleaner-accessories/124092617504?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Seems like that little jar would fill up a couple times a day? Doesn't appear to be very large.. On a good cutting day I could fill up over a quart jar of sawdust.. Not that daily emptying would be a hassle.. But I'd think one of those dust separators with the 5 gallon bucket would be more practical for me anyway..

Klockit is a good source for clocks and parts.. as is clockparts.com.. and many others such as bearwoods.. etc etc.. there is a long list of clock suppliers out there.. I've bought clocks from most any place I could find and guess what they all have in common? They are the same brand of clocks made by a company in China whom I get my clocks from factory direct.. The only difference is the price from these sellers.. I'm speaking of the clock inserts.. The other thing about all the suppliers is they get the "Cheap" plastic clock cases.. that have the plastic mounting tabs.. Over time those tabs get brittle and weak.. before you know it a tab or two breaks off and you no longer can use the clock as it won't stay mounted in.. I get the high end all metal case.. that has the rubber gasket mount.. They have the seiko PC-21 motor not the cheaper china made motor.. BUT as I said.. I can't afford to buy all the available styles of inserts so if someone is looking for a special style or color other than the one I use.. then you're stuck with ordering from elsewhere and getting the cheap plastic clock.. unless you'd like 500 of them, LOL If you go the movement ( motor with hands ) then the USA made ones are the only way to go and that I'm aware of on those.. they're only available from clockparts site or woodworkingparts site.. 3-4 years ago when I did an extensive research on clocks this was my finding.. That could have changed by now I don't know.. I found my source for what I use and buy bulk direct from the factory..

AWESOME!! Congrats.. I've been thinking about this system for a long time..I look forward to what you have to say about it after using it for a few hours.. Congrats on the new tool..

Yes they are.. but not even half of the patterns are on their site.. and not sure how it is now.. but whoever was running it never responded to any questions or messages etc.. not sure if they even follow through with the order once you buy something.. There was some issues with them.. maybe that has been taken care of now?

Wow that's nice, very well done! You may have hit the jackpot for some future orders, LOL.. Just figuring out the price.. that's something nobody really likes to do..

It's been on there for a long time.. Probably nobody thinks there is any value to it or it doesn't work.. Put $50 - 100 on it and then let them talk you down to $10, lol.. Years ago my friend had a Mustang.. It was given to him as it didn't run.. Turned out to be something really simple like the power wire to the coil.. he didn't put any money into it.. didn't really want the car.. so he put it in the newspaper for $150... extended the ad for a couple more weeks.. couldn't sell it.. A co-worker told him to put the ad back on and price it at $700 sure enough.. sold it the day the paper came out.. guy talked him down to $500 LOL.. Funny thing was.. he had a lot of called on that car for the next week or so, LOL... nobody had any interest in a piece of junk $150 Mustang, Sometimes you just gotta make people see some sort of value by raising the price..