kmmcrafts

I think it's best to store the Danish oil in the original can that it's purchased in... The chemicals in it may soften the plastic of the container.. I only use the container for dipping and then wipe it out with paper towels.. then burn the towels.. I live out in the country so I have no issues with burning a couple paper towels every now and then.. I don't do finishing every day.. and try to have a large batch of stuff to to at once..

I also dip in Danish oil... I use a dollar store plastic container.. much like a tupperware container.. Let them soak for about 10 minutes.. pull them out and put on a drying table wait another 10 minutes and then wipe and blow out the veining.. I leave them on the dry table for about a week before I seal them up in the shrink wrap bags.. Oh.. I also pour out the Danish oil when done back into the can and wipe out the plastic container with paper towels.. Then I go start a camp fire in the fire pit with the towels and burn my scraps if I have any.. If not.. I still set fire to the rags.. The oil soaked rags can con-bust on it's own so be careful with them.. I've read that people will put them in a bucket of water.. I just set them on fire so i expect it to burn while I'm "watching" it rather than leave them and forget to keep and eye on them..

Maybe Travis could set up the forum to make people put their general location in when signing up for an account.. I'm on some other forums that are that way.. Then the question is.. will they put in the info or just submit they are from Mars or just enter any text to get around that... I guess that would be their problem if you come back with some stupid answers for their questions.. While on the subject, LOL... Most folks don't realize that the website administrators can see all kinds of info about you.. My website I can track down pretty close to a T where your viewing from.. so much so that it'll tell me right down to if you was on a mobile device brand of computer or a windows / linex machine.. where the main internet connection was through.. so if on a mobile device it'll show a general location / city etc... so being online you're not as private as you might think you are...

Ray the bearing is the same.. but the I.D. of the sleeve is different size. I don't remember now.. if it was larger or smaller, LOL but the inside diameter was different.. also think the sleeve was also either longer or shorter.. I just know they wasn't the same.. as i have a complete set of bearings and sleeves that I intended to use on my old DW before I sold it.. As for taking the assembly out of the saw.. it's quite simple.. you need to remove the back cover that bends around the curvature of the back of the saw.. remove the metal plate on the side of the saw to access the motor area.. and remove the three screws holding the wires right below the motor shaft ( can be seen in the posted pics above..) I removed the cap screw on the arm end of the motor connecting rod and then unbolted the motor to remove it for better access.. Then at the front of the saw you need to remove all the linkages from the upper and lower arms.. then you should be able to pull the whole assembly right out the back of the saw... I believe there was two bolts back by that back side plate toward the front of the saw that has to come out too.. I say it's fresh in my head but now I don't know, LOL Once you look at it and start digging in it's straight forward.. Oh.. you have to remove the knob of the back adjustment rod too so you can get that back cover off.. I also think I unplugged some wires inside the case somewhere on the motor side.. I don't remember why I had to unplug them now but remember doing it.. Take a photo so you know what wire goes where is helpful.. Putting it back together was quite simple to do too... just pay attention to what arm is the top and bottom.. as they only go in one way.. well actually they will go in either way but when you go to put the motor back on.. it wont line up unless you have that assembly in right side up... don't ask how I know

I tend to shy away from having people come by mainly because of my dog.. he was 9 months when I got him and was rescued from the pound.. I like to rescue dogs rather than buying a dog because I hate to see a great dog get put down because nobody wants them.. Though in doing this.. sometimes you get a dog that has been abused and can be mean.. I don't need any law suite for my 200# grate dane because he licked the top of your head and messed up your hair, LOL.. He's really a nice / good dog.. but around certain people he's very mean and aggressive.. not sure if some people remind him of his past owners or what.. so I really don't trust anyone coming that I haven't warned them of or have already met them.. He can be quite the handful around strangers.. The bad part of him is.. he's plenty tall enough and actually knows how to open the door with his mouth.. so you can hardly keep him contained.. tall enough to jump my fence easily too.. soo.. Good thing I live in the boonies and nobody stops by.. those door to door sales people etc once they pull in the drive are putting their windows up because he's tall enough to stick his head in and give you a kiss if he likes you or... if not.. they tend to go through my yard and get the heck out of here.. LOL Your welcome Ray.. I just changed the subject.. LOL

Maybe you've discovered this yourselves but.. I find that the long arm saws tend to go through blades faster than a short arm saw.. ( ie my Hawk will burn through two - three blades per ornament stack per one - two blade on my Excalibur or DeWalt depending on the pattern but I typically count on using more blades on the Hawk ).. I think this has to do with the " Rocking Motion " that the EX types saws blade does.. While I can adjust this motion to be almost minimal on a EX.. It's still there.. I think it has to do with cooler running blades.. that rocking motion sort of gives the blade a break to cool for a millisecond.. or less My new Hawk isn't quite as bad.. I believe it to be that I can fine tune the blade angle to give it a similar experience...

That cap screw that is shown in the last picture has a needle bearing in there with a sleeve.. This is a big wear point on these saws.. Personally if you take that screw out. it's not much more work to just pull out the whole assembly upper and lower arm assembly out and clean up all the old grease re-grease everything and put it back together.. It's not extremely hard but does take a couple hours.. Being a older green saw.. I'm not sure how much use it's had. but I'd consider doing that.. knocking noise you may find a worn sleeve / bearing.. The bearings are pretty much the same ones the DW788 use but the sleeves are different... and I do not know a source for the sleeves.. Mine was beat up a bit and still has a slight knock to it because of this.. I'm just not sure where to look for the sleeve.. my local bearing supply can get the bearing in for me.. Ray sells the hole assembly but I really didn't want to spend $100+ when a 10-15 bearing and sleeve is all that was needed..LOL Best of luck with it and let us all know what you find out.

I use the Pegas Modified Geometry the most and usually a number 3 or 5 works well.. I also sometimes use FD ultra Reverse.. I've found that the Pegas blades tend to run on the smaller side of both FD and Olsen blades.. A number 5 Pegas is like a in between size 3 and 5 of the other brands.. They also run thinner kerf.. With that said.. I think you're nornal blade is a 2/0 you may want to go to a #1 with a Pegas MG blade.. that would be closer comparison to the Olsen 2/0..

Sorry Larry I should have quoted Matt B.. He said its not a wear area.. I was just trying to understand why it's not a wear area.. Like I said before.. I don't know Hegner saws.. only seen one in person that was a 1988 14" saw.. I almost bought it for the $60 they was asking for it at the estate sale.. I figured the stand was probably worth that.. But i ended up spending my limited ( at the time ) funds on a high end wood burning set.. so I passed on the saw.. I'd like to get a Hegner some day just to mess with and see if maybe one day I'd like a new one.. LOL.. They aren't cheap to buy a new one and then not like it.. LOL I try to soak in all the info on them I can so i know things to look for if I ever run upon a deal on a used one.. so these topics about them are interesting to me..

I guess I would have to see a saw in person and how it all works.. to see why this is not a wear point.. maybe it's design is much different than the Hawk.. though they look very similar in design at the back of the arms and the rear tension mechanism.. But this wedge area is a wear point for the Hawks.. Hawk manuals say to apply a drop or two of 3n1 or other light oil in the wedge pivot point every 25 hours.. The new saw manual says to use a dry lube.. I have no idea how much wear or personally never heard of or known anyone that needed to replace the wedge or arm because of wear on the Hawks.. but they have told me over the phone that it was a wear point and to look in those areas when shopping used saws..

Yeah as a parent or as a insurer, I could see why that was a no.. LOL As a young boy though.. I wouldn't understand that.. No dad, I'll not speed.. I'll drive it like grandma drives.. ( That probably would be worst, LOL )

Well if they never wear out you never get the joy of a new exciting tool.. LOL Does that wedge ride directly onto the cast aluminum arm? I guess these saws last a very long time.. But.. I just thought they would have been solid machined aluminum.. and the wedge rode into a replaceable insert in the arms.. just like the Hawk saws.. I always thought they was built real similar to the Hawk saw.. I wonder if the new Hegners are updated with replaceable inserts for the wedge's .. The old Hawks didn't have the inserts.. BUT.. if the arm wears out.. you can send the arm in to have them A) re-machine the area or for a little more..B) they'll drill it out for a replaceable insert..

Are those arms cast aluminum? I only seen one Hegner in person and I never really "Looked" at how it's made or what kind of materials it was made from.. The pictures make it look like its cast Aluminum.. but maybe just how it wore down etc..

It's hard to tell if there is a set screw down in there or not... mine "looks" like that as well but there is a set screw in it.. just a short one and it hides once its down in there where it tightens against the motor shaft.. That cap screw might not tighten down.. it's not supposed to be ' real " tight.. it might just spin and spin because on the other side of it is a lock nut... Very small one I might add.. and if you take it apart.. there is a washer on there too so be careful not to drop / loose that.. I'm assuming your talking about the screw that is zoomed in on the last picture. All pretty fresh in my mind as I just took mine completely apart and cleaned / greased the bearings etc about 1-2 months ago.. From what I can see... provided there is a set screw in that to lock down onto the motor shaft and it's locked tight down on it.. I think everything looks as it should.. But without digging in deeper to inspect bearings etc... it's kinda hard to say still,,

Yes Sir... They are the best.. I order my clocks specifically with that battery in it... If not then they put in some china battery that last almost long enough to set the clock, LOL.. I sure miss the Shack.. I'm not sure if they all closed up or just the ones in my area.. but we do not have any around here anymore.. Was one of my favorite stores back in the day.. Always buying parts to hop up my C/B radios.. LOL

Ray don't delete the topic.. I really think it's a great topic.. and many have left it blank.. maybe on purpose and maybe not.. I rarely fill out a profile to a forum.. when i'm a newbie just because I don't know if I'll stay on board or bail.. Many newbies maybe feel the same and then forget to go back to fill in the blanks.. as others have said..some just don't want the info out there.. But I see nothing wrong with general locations or even asking for others to fill out the profile.. Nothing wrong with a friendly reminder.. I think some of us was just having too much fun with your topic.. I apologize for my part of it..

Just because we post where we are doesn't mean it's real.. This guy is a perfect example of that..

Not really a finish or sealer but this is a mix that I make with just beeswax and food grade mineral oil.. I learned of this recipe from a toy making forum several years ago.. It's really more of a wood conditioner and may over years dry out and need reapplied.. just dipping in mineral oil works too and much quicker / easier but the beeswax I believe helps seal off the wood pores so contaminants don't get soaked deep into the wood.. This mix is also used on cutting boards / butcher blocks I personally use Danish oil more than these two but Danish oil does take some time to fully cure.. if i need to have a last minute gift.. I more than likely will use the mineral oil beeswax mix.. The thing with many of the "finishes" or coatings that are a top coat is that depending on how tight the pieces fit together they may not fit after putting a "top coat" type finish on it.. as it adds or the build up adds to the finished size of the pieces.. Maybe not enough to worry about.. as I said.. probably depending on the thickness of the blades you use to cut the puzzle will determine tight the pieces fit together..

If you cut your plywood to whatever wide you want them I typically cut them into about 8x8 inch blanks for ornaments.. Usually get 5 ornaments per blank.. so i rip several 8" strips on the table saw then you can run those strips though your drum sander.. makes the initial sanding quick and easy.. then finish cutting the 8" strips into squares.. and finish sanding with my RO sander to the 320 grit.. drill the pilot holes and hit that back side with the 320 for any puncture holes that may have pushed through.. when done cutting.. I usually don't really have to sand them again but the few that do need a sanding is usually the top of the stack and the bottom one.. Typically stack cut everything 4-6 to a stack..

Not a dumb question at all... as that would make a world of difference in the quality.. I think many of us " Assume" it was the good 5 ply.. and never thought about it being the cheaper stuff.. Since I've never used the 3 ply I forget it even exist, LOL So.. that is a great question.. I'll be curious to see what that answer is.. Thanks for asking that question..

As I said in my previous post.. I sand it down before using it.. I go through about 25 sheets of 1/8" and around 10 sheets of 1/4" every year.. I first put shelf liner on then apply my pattern which I print out on a full sheet shipping label.. Hate the spray glues.. messy and expensive.. One thing to note.... I do sometimes get lifted splinters IF the shelf liner OR tape is left on the wood / project for more than a couple weeks.. I typically cut the stuff out within 3-4 days so I have no issues with it .. These shelf liners and tapes.. have a shelf life.. which is something else to think about... If you stock pile up on this stuff and it's setting around for 2-3 years... you may have problems..

only thing that comes to my mind is.. where to get supplies locally.. I see many asking where to purchase the full 5x5 sheets of BB ply.. lot's of folks also order it online.. But it's quite pricey getting it all chunked up into those 12 x 12 or 12 x 24 pieces.. then the shipping.. It cost me $12 a sheet..

I didn't like the foot switch a first either... until I found that the lower brace of the DW stand was the perfect spot to put the switch.. But to answer your question.. I think you'll need to order the switch.. unless you modify the area for a different switch.. When you get your new switch if that's how you like it... After installing it.. get a piece of rubber / latex style glove cut the fingers off ( don't use the table saw for this... scissors will work well ) and cut out a section of the palm area big enough to cover the switch.. tape it on with some masking tape.. This will keep out the dust and prolong the switch... When the glove wears out... make a new one..

Yeah it couldn't be brand new from 1968 it'd have to be 2019 wouldn't it.. I think the correct term would be brand new NOS ( New Old Stock ) is the correct term.. though not sure that applies to cars.. I know car parts and tractor parts do because I used to sell parts like that.. Thank you for the kind words

Yes that would be quite a dream.. LOL Thank you for the kind words