WolfmoonCT

Good start. Looks like you did well keeping the curves smooth.

Here is my latest Shiela Landry design I cut.

Very nice.

I keep catching myself sticking my tongue out while scrolling... O.o

Welcome Tommy.

Glad to be able to help.

My suggestion is to take the side panel off. See if you broke one of the connecting rods on the inside, or if one of the rods came undone.

I wouldnt' know where to get them.. Even a google of the machine does not turn up much..

Those are awesome Clayton.

Howdy Joey.. I'm in NE Connecticut myself. Go to the pattern request area, and do a post.. they have helped me a few times taking an image and making a pattern.

I LOVE wolves.. where did you get the pattern?

Very nice.. where did you get the pattern from?

What video?

Yeah.. I could never make a living at it. But it usually pays for some tools and wood...

If you want to try to keep that grub screw from working loose, try putting some teflon pipe tape on it. should fill up the gap and make it tigher for you. if the blade is curving when you tighten the T bolt, your over tightening it. It doesnt' require as much pressure as you think to hold the blades, if your using proper tension. If it's cutting on an angle, then I still think the table is not square to the blade. Perhaps the square your using got bent at some point? What do you use to square the blade, and how do you do it? I have 2" square I use on my Dewalt. My Dewalt has it's own issues that I can't seem to correct, but doesn't seem to affect my cuts much. I can square the blade to the table, with the arms all the way up. If I place a straight edge touching the blade, when I lower the arms, the blade moves about the thickness of a #7 blade to the side. I've tried adjusting the set screws on the clamps every which way, but to keep the blade touching a straight edge all the time, my table can't be square to the blade. Doesn't really seem to affect most of my work, but I'm sure if I was to do some very fine pieces it would prob cause too much sideways vibration and snap a piece. But I used to over tighten my blades in teh beginning.. then I figured out what a good amount was.. Now it's more when i feel the set screw touch the blade, I do a like 1/5th to 1/4 of a turn and that's it. Never had the issue again, except on maybe a couple 2/0 blades when cutting maple and i needed to tighten more to get more tension.

How did you bend the stem?

Excellent job.

Lemon Oil?

Very nice. I love the frame. So tell us about what it's made from, and what blades did you use?

Very nicely done. I think it looks great in 1/4".

Excellent job!

I'm prob gonna try to cut a couple ornaments each week till November when the craft fair I attend is. I'll stack cut, so I'll try to do 2 patterns of 3, so 6 ornaments each week. Should make for lots of ornaments by Nov.

I would scuff up the set screws that hold the blade.

my suggestion, would be to take what chair your going to use, and sit down.. use something like a piece of scrap wood in front of you, to mark a height that is where you think would be comfortable. Use that as the total height. then measure how tall your saw is from the base to the table top, and subtract that from the total height. That should give you your bench height.

Don't ask me how i know this.. but on a sewing machine, the fabric is fed through it by the machine. It sets the speed, using a set of "teeth" that stick above the base where the needle goes up and down, and you do not have your fingers near the needed because you are not pulling or pushing the fabric. I believe that is the foot feed she is talking about. The hold down that keeps the fabric pressed against the moving parts that feed the fabric is called the foot. Hence her "foot feed" in my best guess. Hey..it's cheaper to sew my own sand bags for shooting rests out of old jeans that buy them.