WolfmoonCT
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Everything posted by WolfmoonCT
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You could be getting some blade slip in the blade holder too.. If the blade is slipping, you wont' get full tightness. Tighten up a blade, and tension it. then release the tension. You should not have more play in the blade then when you first tightened it really. If you do, then the blade clamps are not holding as good anymore. Easy fix is to back them out, and hit them with a few passes of 150 grit sandpaper. It will scuff up the face and they will hold again. I have to do it about once a year.
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my sander is a small benchtop thing.. it's one of those belt and disc sanders... prob 14 years old now...
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I have a real cheap belt/disc sander I never use.. I really should try and see if I can even find new discs for it.
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Nice idea
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Way to go Clayton.
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I love that pattern.. where can i get it?
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I run my 788 at about a 5.5 on speed setting for all my woods.. (oak, maple, cherry, ash, sycamore, pine). I only slow it down for like the 1/8" thick BB ply. I use Olson blades and change them frequently due to the hard woods. In the plaques I'm cutting out of 1/4" cherry right now, I think I went through about 8 blades in the 3.5 hrs it took to cut the one I posted the other day. But I also do 99% of my cutting using a #2/0 blade.
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My original plan was to buy a bit off rockler to make the frames, but ran out of time to order it and get these done.
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Here is what it looks like without the glass.
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So I'm finishing up some patterns Don made me for a customer. He keeps saying it's my creative license. So.. I used 1/4" cherry. The problem is if I use a store bought frame, with the glass, it sticks out the back too much to use the little holders. If I take out the glass, I can prob still use the little holders.. What do you all think.. try and make a frame so I can use glass, or just go no glass? If I use the glass, the edge of the fram would prob stick like about 1/8" away from the wall, by the time I have the glass, cut, and backer...
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I need to thank everyone who helped me design it. MrsN, Bobscroll, Multitom.. thanks for all your ideas, and guidance in the right direction.
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I bet the neighbors are going to go " What the #%@# is that? LOL
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I finished all the cutting and gluing a couple weeks ago. I still need to put a clear coat on it to protect it more, but here it is.
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I'm wondering the same thing Kevin.
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The frames I use are from Family Dollar. Designed to fit 8 1/2 x 11" pieces..
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I've only done a couple, but I used 1/8" BB ply to cut them. I left the glass in, put the cut out, then used the original cardboard piece that was with frame to fill in the gap between the glass and the back when you buy it, sprayed it black to act as the background, and everything fit perfect.
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Like Heppner said, try different blades, and use what you feel works best for you.
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Heppner, there is a screw on the 788.. First screw where the top arm goes into the body.. if you just tighten it a hair, the arm stays up on it's own.
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Polar Vs Ultra Reverse Blades
WolfmoonCT replied to TXScrollsawartist's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Every FD blade I've tried leaves those fuzzy's like Tdub's pics. the Olson scroll reverse dont leave any of that when i cut. Perfectly smooth as glass, and no fuzzy what so ever. -
I do the same thing as Dan. I buy all rough cut lumber. If I'm doing my usual thickness of 3/8" i can resaw the wood in half, joint and edge glue it, then surface it plane it down to thickness later. If i am going for thinner, I can usually get 3 cuts in a single 4/4 rough cut board. I try not to resaw pieces that are wider than 3" just because I'm still working out keeping the blade from bowing in much wider pieces. Just don't skimp on the bandsaw blades.. I accidently cut through a couple screws with my Olson blade. My father had a Vermont American blade of the same size, brand new, and i figured I would throw it on.. that VA blade bows soooo much more than my Olson. The Olson barely bowed at all. The VA blade on same tension setting for same TPI and blade width.. bows about a good 1/4" in the same wood.. It's going in the trash when i replace the blade next year. this year's season for me is coming to and end because my garage is too cold in the winter, so I just don't see a need to replace it right now.
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I use Olson only.. FD are good, but I just love Olson. i do nearly everying I cut using a #2/0 R blade I get from Sloans. I usually buy a gross at a time. 99% of my stock is 3/8" thick or less. I'd say 95% of everything I cut is 3/8" thick. Oak, cherry, ash, maple, gonna use some quarter sawn sycamore I got eventually. I find the Olson cut beautiful and leave no burrs and a nice clean line.
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how big are they? I wouldn't mind cutting a couple at 3/8" thick and letting my fiancee paint them funky colors and hanging them on our wall.
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To me it's the problem with kids these days Dan. We cannot discipline them without worry about being arrested. All this PC crap is teaching them nothing can be done. Granted, no one needs to leave bruises on their kids, but a little smack on the back of the head, or a few swift smacks on the butt did wonders back in the old days.
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That must have been difficult to cut.. that is some thick wood.
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Very true.
