WolfmoonCT
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Everything posted by WolfmoonCT
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I like that.. I may need to find that pattern. Is this the book? https://www.amazon.com/Woodworkers-Pattern-Book-Realistic-Fretwork/dp/1565239024
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So when using a spiral, are you pushing sideways on the cuts or do you just spin the work with the saw off so you are always pushing forward? I bought my saw used YEARS ago, and the guy I got it from has sooo many spirals, and I just never touched them. I mainly cut Cherry, Ash, Oak, Maple, I really don't do plywood, and I cut mainly 1/4" using Olson #2/0 R blades.
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Maybe I need to buy a panel sander.. that would prob do a great job.. See, I just talked myself into a new tool I don't need. LOL
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I just ordered a box from him. He said he's sending some mix of curly, quilted, and lightly spalted.. I'll post some pics of what I get when it arrives. I'll prob let it sit in my shop for a few days to acclimate to see how the cupping is first. It's going from WA to CT.. not sure how the humidity is out in WA.
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They were told she is part weimeraner part Rhodesian ridgeback.
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no.. the original one is here. TD made the pattern. I think it is a dead on match.
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Usually, like 99% of the time, I do a black background for all these type of cuts. But since the dog is a brown color, I thought I'd paint the cardboard backer chocolate brown. I think it came out good. I also used a frame with a brown tint to it over a black one.
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I'm cutting for 8 1/2 x 11 frame. I cut the sheet in half so I got two pieces out of each sheet. That's why the grain is going sideways.. I would have preferred it going vertical, but that would have wasted a lot of wood is right. I cut it at 8 1/2 wide first, then I cut about an inch off the top edge. I think It wasted about an inch across the top and an inch on the side of the second cut. I hate wasting wood. That's why for all my solid wood stuff, I will buy rough cut, get a single flat face, and resaw it in half, then skim pass it through the planer to get two pieces to glue up into one panel, then I can run that through the panel to get it down to final thickness of usually 3/8" or just under it, depending on the cut. I won't buy 3/4" stuff at big box and plane away from 3/4 down to 3/8.
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I want to thank Frank for the Columbia products suggestion. I cut it with the Olson 2/0R blades I have, and it cut perfect. Ply stayed perfectly flat.. I want to thank TD for the portrait too. They are going to be very happy with this I'm pretty sure. I should have made the grain go vertical.. oh well...
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I hear ya... I know I have like 4 packages of FD spirals I bought back in like 2011.. I tried one for like 5 min and hated it.. and they have sat there since. Doesn't help that I didn't do any scrolling from like 2012 till this year cause of the state of the garage while married.. but I may try the spirals again.. Great job on the cut though Flarud.
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That's pretty cool. So I take it each bat is a cut out glued to the backer?
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Not sure I'll ever be able to cut that fine of lines... or with that much detail..
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That's great.
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How to go about "signing" your work?
WolfmoonCT replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I used to use a waterslide decal I could print on my inkjet. After printing a whole sheet, I spray it with poly urethane. That seals in the ink. Then I can just cut them. After the first coat of poly goes on the wood to seal the project, I can slide the decal on, let it dry, then add more coats of Poly as I finish the project. that way the decal gets embedded into the finish, and doesn't rub off. -
I'll have to look into some non R blades. I pretty much only have R's. I pretty much use Olson.. but I do have a bunch of FD I bought YEARS ago.. I will have to go through and see if I have any 3/0 there... I think I did see some... I know I have like 3 packs of different sizes of spirals. I tried them, but could not keep a good line with spirals.
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So far, the closest place that carries sheets of BB for me is 37 miles away.. For now, I did order one of the packs of columbia stuff frank mentioned, but I have bookmarked Ochooch for the future.. The other local place I may visit after I replace my truck.. I'm just not a fan of taking it very far. It's in need of replacing, and I had to wait till the divorce was final to do it.
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I'm going to bookmark that Ocooch one too. I rarely use plywood. I don't usually do portrait or stuff like that. I usually do 1/4 or 3/8 inch stuff and I glue up for larger stuff. I buy rough, and resaw it, glue it, then plane it down to thickness. Like this is from some like 2 year old curly maple.. I prefer to cut from maple, red or white oak, and ash is my favorite.. but it's harder to find because of the ash bore.. But I've used some quartersawn sycamore too.
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I use painters tape, and it usually works awesome. This is the worse plywood I have ever cut.. I'll have to look at that Columbia link. Thanks Frank.
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Where do you all get your plywood from? Last time I did anything using 1/8" ply I got Revell brand from Michaels. Cut nice. But Micheals won't ship it, and the closest store that has it now is 40 miles from me.. So I ordered some off /sigh.. Amazon. I'm halfway through the simple cut, and when looking at the back, the birch veneer is coming off the middle. Then on a piece I was cutting, a piece of the top veneer came off, so I'll have to start over again. Even with Olson 2/0R blades, the amount of tearout on the back is horrible... I'm cutting for 8 1/2" x 11 frame.
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I use the Minwax spray semi-gloss and I never clean the nozzles.. They just never seem to clog. I've also used some Deft spray lacquer for a project, and we never had to clean that nozzle either.
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That is awesome.. what blade did you use to cut it?
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cutting portraits with spiral blades
WolfmoonCT replied to scroller111's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I've tried the orbital on a piece that I saw had little fuzz.. ended up breaking off a piece.. Since then, if I need to get rid of any fuzzy, I hand sand with block.. 220 grit. Allows me to get just the right amount of pressure, so i don't break anything -
I like the idea of using like some 1/8" thick wood and cutting the letters out on it.. then attaching them to the project.. the 3-D look would be sweet too.
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I'm sorry to hear it. Any idea how it happened?
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Watch out using a wrench to tighten the blades on the Dewalt. The blade holders are just cast metal, and you can split them or at minimum bend them so the blade holding set screws do not sit flush on the blade anymore, and you will not be able to hold a blade.
