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WolfmoonCT

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Everything posted by WolfmoonCT

  1. Been cutting a lot of Sheila's holly ornaments and plaques.. I think I'm up to 5 plaques, and about 40 ornaments.. working on another 5 of last years ribbon plaques.. This should fill out the show on the 3rd.. Have prob 20+ pens and some bottle stoppers and a few other scrolled items.. got started late preparing this year.. Next year I hope to have more stuff.. Once the fair is done, I have a couple orders that I need to start working on too. I'm prob pretty filled up till Dec.. By then it will prob be too cold to do much else in the shop, and it will be break time till next March...
  2. Thanks to Don R for working with me on the pattern. Here is the finished. 1/8" Birch ply. 8.5 x 11 in size. The frame was a cheap frame from Family Dollar for 8.5x11 documents it said.
  3. You can steam it with an iron, then while it's still damp from it, use some clamping cawls and flatten it, and you can remove the cup...
  4. I resaw wood to 3/16" then plane it down to 1/8".. I think hardwood looks better than ply.. especially if being left with a clear finish.
  5. Guillotine's are amazingly accurate.. especialy if you have a sharp blade. .they can cut slivers so thin.. If you got a chopsaw already, get the guillotine
  6. I can usually do about an hour.. then the album on the ipod is done, and I have to go pick another, so it's my reason to get up for a min or two, then back to it.. I usually tend to only do about 3 hrs max before I'm done for the day.
  7. I like it.. where did you get the pattern?
  8. I like it.. where did you get the pattern?
  9. what did you use for the gone fishin one? cherry? Looks like you put a backer to it also?
  10. All my scroll stuff gets multiple coats of Minwax spray poly in a semi-gloss.
  11. I also don't think there is a best wood... I use maple, cherry, red oak, white oak, ash, Birch Ply... I prefer cherry just cause it looks so nice.. and Ash.. I love ash.
  12. I like the olson scroll reverse.. I use mainly #2R and #2/0R blades. For bringing the saw inside and keeping the dust down, if you don't mind the noise, you can use a small shopvac. You can fabricate a holder that will keep the hose next to the hole in the table top. That will catch most of the dust. I've seen one made from a flat base, with a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it to fit the host attached to the base. The base is clamped down, and you can move the host to where it needs to sit.
  13. I use blue painters tape.
  14. some people will tape the cut out pieces back in.. it gives is some rigidity.. I've done it a couple times.
  15. Not sure if it would work or not, but what about one of those router speed controls? http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... ntrol.html Might work for you... give you some speed control..
  16. The wood has been in the shop since about February.. I glued up another piece, and got about 1/32 inch bow across it. I've left it alone for now, to see if it's going to increase or not. I also am going to try 1/4" ply instead of 1/8".. see if it helps or not. Even the 1/4" I have has about a 1/32" bow in it too.. we'll have to see what happens. I didn't seal the back of the cherry on that last one.. maybe because only the top and sides are sealed with Poly, it's getting more moisture on the back and that is why it's bowing that way.. Cause when I cut it, it had about a 1/32 bow. and the bow was down on the cut. but it has totally changed direction now.. I was just not sure how good the cut would hold to the backer if the back of the cut piece was sealed with poly.
  17. Hello all.. I was wondering if anyone could help me here.. I buy all my lumber as rough lumber. I resaw it, then glue it... What I've seen, especially with the cherry, I have, is bowing of the wood after being gluded up. What I do is resaw it, then glue it as a bookmatch. It should alternate the growth rings. So I was doing a work piece.. I needed a 12 inch board, so I glued up 3 pieces that were 4.5 inches wide. I had a very slight maybe 1/32" bow when I cut it.. not much.. I finished it, and glued it to the 1/8" birch backer piece.. I then sealed the back of the birch ply.. What I ened up with was a piece that when you measured in the middle, had a 1/8" bow across a 12" board... The ply had a slight bow, but not that much.. and I figured 1/8" ply would flatten out with the cherry.. Am I wrong on this? Here is a pic of the piece..
  18. I cut probably 95% of my fretwork using a #2/0 sroll reverse blade. I've gone up to a 1/2" thick maple with them and they cut fine.. Just have to slow down on the speed a little at that thickness.
  19. I agree.
  20. I would think that MDF would dull the blades more due to the large amount of glue in the construction of the material.
  21. I got the pattern over at http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/new-sc ... /42444.htm
  22. I like the top birdie.. looks goofy.
  23. I use the 3M Super 77.. I put painters tape down first, pattern on that, then it peels off easy.
  24. Very nice.. I like it.
  25. Any way you could make the raised panels into some some sort of sign? Maybe strip them clean, cut the letters into them for a hanging plaque?
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