WolfmoonCT

Great work. Where did you get the bakery pattern?

The family tree is roughly 20x12 inches. It's made from 1/4" cherry, with 5mm ply backer. It uses the same ply painted black for the strips that hold it all together. Sheila Landry design. The dragon is 9x5.5 inches, from 1/4" curly maple, with a 5mm ply backer. Both were cut with Olson #2/0R blades.

Great cuttings. Good luck at the flea market.

I set up shipping using USPS priority mail boxes, but telling it to use Etsy shipping prices, everything I posted is $8.80 to ship from CT to CA. when I look at other shops, most shipping is like $3-4... I guess maybe they are using smaller packages.. but I'm afraid that shipping 1/8" thick scrollsaw'd ornaments would break in like bubble envelope...

News article headline I saw said prices were down 68%.. I haven't needed any new lumber, so I'm not sure.

was it that the sides aren't facing all one direction? I probably wouldn't have noticed it if you hadn't said something.

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how the Etsy shipping works.. Need to read up on it more, so I can put in the listing how much it costs to ship..

So I am going to try to get an Etsy store going, basically because I don't have the room to keep everything I make. I started taking some pics this evening, but I really don't like the pics. I need to come up with a better way to stage the items for Etsy.. but here are some things I cut prob back in 2011-2012, and they have been sitting in a 6qt sterilite tub since then.. The bigger wall pieces are Cherry and Ash. The box is cherry. The smaller Christmas ornaments are cherry and maple, and the feathers are red oak and ash glued together.. Ornaments and feathers are 1/8" and were stack cut so there are even more still in the box. The feathers are stack cut in two's so that when you cut across the part where the wood changes, they match up and can be glued together. I believe all of these are Sheila Landry designs... as usual for me. LOL

He figured out a way to get the work done when he doesn't have the tools to do such a long piece.. all the weight of that piece would have broken the planer if he had tried to feed it into the planer and the end tipped down.

Yeah.. not sure why, but I use my left foot, even though I'm right footed normally. Feels natural to me.

Looks like he turns the knob, then when he flips it back it tensions it. Turning the quick release prob changes the length the knob is screwed onto a tension rod.

I buy Olson blades in gross.. well the #2/0R ones at least.. I find like one out of every 20 or so may just not cut when I put it in, or it cuts on an angle for some reason.. I have an old Delta 14" bandsaw. I use it to resaw all the time. I buy 5/4 stock, and depending on what I want the thickness to be for the final, I can get 2 or 3 slices out of a piece. Normally I only get 2.. Since my jointer is only 6" and I do a lot of 8" wide stuff, I buy boards that are 5-6 inches wide normally. I cut them to a length, clean up the edges, then I rip it to just over half the finished size I need. I resaw the piece, then run it through the planer to get 2 parallel sides. I then rejoint the matching edges, and when I glue it, I get book matched pieces. I find they make the best looking pieces to cut.

So far here are my thoughts on it. Blade tension on the #2/0 blades out of the box works great. Cutting another of those I'm not Arguing signs, it's cut perfect with no blade break of slip. The 90 degree angle on the dust blower.. I don't like it. I don't like how it wants you to put it in front of the blade.. then you can't see the blade. I prefer to blow sideways, so I'll probably remove it at some point. The little connectors that make up the hose are VERY stiff and difficult to adjust. The magnetic bullseye mat for it.. Don't like it. It sits nice, but when using it, the wood doesn't spin as nice as bare metal. I won't be using it. The stand is nice There is very little vibration at 3/4 speed and it's soooo much quieter than my DW was. (I have not tried cutting higher speed yet, and probably never will, not for what I usually cut) Bare metal top.. still doesn't feel as slick as my DW top. I did spray it down with some Bostick Glide Coat. It looks like the top has a protective finish on it, but I put it on anyways. Overall, I enjoy the saw. Not sure how much I will tilt it, cause I don't usually cut much bowls, but I have done the Sheila Landry self framing plaques, and for that I will have to tilt it. Watching the Steve Good review on the saw, his saw (though a prototype tester) came with 2 stops so that when you tilt it, you can set it back to 0 without using the engineering square, and you can set a stop for any degree you want to.. so like 20 degrees if you do a lot of bowls. Here is my pedal attachment.

I think I'm gonna try it first without a base, then when I break down to buy more plywood.. I'll make a bigger base and try it out.

I only put painters tape down, then spray the pattern with Super 77.. I have used packing tape when taping larger multi page patterns together, and I find that when I start cutting through the packing tape the sawdust stays in the cut more and seems to obscure the lines.

Saw assembled.. I was able to put a 2x6 across the bottom legs using the empty holes for the height adjustment.. I figured out the legs are set at 10 degree angle. so I cut the ends at 10 degrees, and angled the top of the 2x6 at 10 degrees so the plywood sits nice and flat.. Anyone think that putting it on one of the Bora mobile bases may cause a bunch of vibration?

I have one of those little steps.. Interesting.. wonder how well it fits under my saw.

I got it assembled good.. I did find out when I raised the legs all the way up, the bottom 3 holes are still open.. I think I'll be able to put a board across them, put a layer of ply down, and mount the foot pedal to that.. I'll have to see how I like it..

The new saw is here.. I have it assembled and the blade square to the table. I find that what leg setting I put it at, it's lower than the Dewalt.. I need to drop the legs to the highest setting.. The thing I really don't like the idea of doing is drilling holes in that nice new stand to put a board so I can mount my pedal to it.. But I guess it's gotta get done. Once done, I can actually start it and see how it cuts. I thought it was great when I opened the box and saw that someone wrote a quick note to me thanking me for the purchase, and letting me know the legs are on the bottom of the box under the styrofoam holding the body of the saw.

Just got the email from Seyco sayin the saw shipped!

I do have a nice Delta drill press.. one of the nice ones from late 90's.. I have tried everything I can with the set screws that was my first adjustments for the side to side. I've gone through about every video I can find on this DW for the last year.. It's got all new grease in the bearings. I did not see any wear on the sleeves.. no bluing, no indents from limited movement the sleeves see.. I went and ordered the Seyco today.. I really don't have the time to not have a scrollsaw.. I can use the Seyco for me, when it arrives, and that lets me tear the DW down and not be out of the saw, and maybe see if it's just some bearings.. If so, maybe replace them and let the GF learn and practice simple cuts on the DW.

I have already taken that rod cover off and ground it down.. but there were no marks at all on the bottom of it. Since I hear the sounds more towards the bottom pivot arms and the rear of the saw, I'm really going with an issue of bearings most likely..

So.. In my research on what I want to do.. I've NEVER been "happy" with this Dewalt. It's always had some sort of noise, but now it's gotten worse. I have tried the fixes with no luck so far.. So I msg'd back and forth with Denny about the Pegas. He was nice and answered some questions I had. I decided I wanted to see about customer service.. so I called the number in the Pegas manual.. The closest I could get with them to ask questions was sales, and they had no technical knowledge, and no option for tech support on the IVR system. She said she would have one of the other guys call me that might know more about the saw.. but I have not heard back. I called Seyco, and I got I believe it was Mike. He answered my questions, and even gave me a name of someone in TN who runs a school for intarsia who has like 15 of the seyco, to see what she said about the saw.. So far, to me, Seyco has the better service. It also has the bigger table from the blade to the front. Between Seyco free shipping, and looking at woodcraft for the Pegas with shipping, the Seyco actually comes in a bit cheaper.. Seyco said they have the saws and once I order, they ship the next day... I'm really leaning toward the Seyco.. Maybe leave the DW in the corner till I get around to buying a used arbor press for the bearings and maybe swap out the bearings if I can't get it to calm down by adjusting the tension rod more.. but every time you turn it out, it gives less tension you can put on the blade, so not sure how much I can adjust that before I am out of travel. Also, with the DW, no matter how much I have tried to adjust it, not only is an agressive cutting saw, (which you can adjust on both pegas and seyco) I have never been able to get rid of a slight side to side movement of the blade either. I can put a square up on the table, make the blade dead on, but when I move the arms, the blade will either move away from a straight edge, or push the straight edge over by about 1/32 of an inch depending on the original postion of the heads in up or down stroke.

I mainly cut 1/4"-3/8" ash, maple, cherry, and red oak.

of the 3 saws, which one has best availability? On the Seyco site, it doesn't say they are out of stock. I have not looked for a Pegas, nor the availability of the DW right now. I cut almost exclusively with 2/0R blades, so breaking them easily would not be a good thing for me... Steve Good said that you CAN kinda use the parallel arm adjuster to modify the tension a little.. wonder if that would help for me.