WolfmoonCT

I hear it from the bottom arm and the back where the motor is... All bolts are in tight and where they came from. I was meticulous about marking where each one came from.. The knocking was there before I took it apart, and did not get less after putting the synthetic grease in the bearings.. I guess I'll just keep using it, for now.. Between another Dewalt, a Pegas, or a Seyco, which one would you all go with... I love the tensioning of the Dewalt.

Earlier in the spring I took it apart and greased them all. I did not feel any were loose or starting to fall apart. None of the sleeves showed any discoloration from heat build up. So here is a video of it.. I did grind down some of that aluminum cover from the tension rod. I did not see any marks on the bottom at all from anything hitting it, so I don't think that's the problem. 20210709_163436.mp4

So I took it apart.. All the bolts on the connecting arms are tight, there is no play in the eccentric bearings. I did the rod one turn CCW, and I ground down some of the piece that the tension lever connects to. I can get it up to about a 5.5 now without too much knocking, but going to like a 7 or 8 it knocks for sure. Putting my ear to it, it seems like the knocking is coming from the front pivot arms, and back where the motor is.. Not sure I want to pull it all apart and try to replace all the bearings. None of the articles on scrollsaws.com that I followed totally fixed it. When I do turn it up to like a 6, you can feel the saw vibrating.. I bought it used originally.. wondering how much it got abused before I bought it. The guy had a TON of blades and stuff and said he used it a lot.. Might be time to replace it. Not sure if I want to or not.. IF I do, not sure if I want another DW or go with like a pegas.. I'm a top feeder. I like how I can tension it. I have been reading how someone on here has been breaking blades on either the pegas or excalibur because of how the tension lever works. I need to look into the different tensioning systems.

Thanks.

If you want to cut the circle part first, before cutting the insides, you can double face tape them, and make a jig for a bandsaw if you have one. then on the backer you may see the center pin where a small nail tip sits.. but you can cut the outside perfect circle. There are some real nice plans on YT for adjustable ones so you can cut circles from like 3" out to 3 ft or larger... but it will easily handle up to a 20" circle.. I made this one for myself.

Nicely cut.

Finished this one.. roughly 3/8" QS Red Oak, with Cherry for the bones.. Just some Minwax semi gloss spray poly on it. Sheila Landry design.

So I have always used the saw on speed 4, because anything higher and you get a knocking and vibration from the saw. Does anyone have any experience with what may be causing the saw to have a lot of vibration and a knocking sound when it's at a higher speed?

Beautiful work..

That could be cute painted like a Dalmatian... Just sayin.. Nothing biased or anything.. LOL

That's a lot of cutting. Well done.

That was book matched maple.. I buy 5/4 resaw it and bookmatch it.. that stuff stayed perfectly flat. not a single cup or twist to that maple. was soo nice not having wood bounce up and down from a cup when cutting.

So I have a co-worker who loves to hunt, fish.. all of it. He's walked a property I have access to hunt earlier in the spring to help me since I've never really hunted before. He's gonna retire next year, and we are all still working from home. So I cut this for him without him knowing, and I am going to just hang it in his cube before we have to go back, so when he gets in, it's just there, and I see how long it takes him to notice it. It's about 1/4 - 5/16" hard maple, with a ply backer... Cut with Olson #2/0R blades Another Sheila Landry design.

Looks great!

I don't split the line. I cut to the side of the line. I always cut counter clockwise. If I cut clockwise, for some reason, I lose control. In sharp corners, I cut up to the corner, and back out a tad, then sometimes I come in a little to the side to make it so that when I finish getting to the corner, I have cut just enough that I can then spin the piece and put the back of the blade in the corner and start cutting again.. leaves a nice corner for me. I have a hard time on like 1/8" thick wood spinning the piece and not screwing up a turn especially with a new blade. What I do a lot if I'm doing a sharp turn but not a full 90 or if it's past a 90, is I cut up to a spot, I take my foot off the pedal, I spin the wood like 30 degrees, and tap the pedal to make the blade do like 2 cuts, which lets the blade straighten out again, and I may do that a couple times till I'm around the corner. On sharp rounds, I tend to keep doing small taps of the pedal as I spin it letting it take like one or two strokes per tap till I get around the super tight turn. Someday I may break out the spirals I have so I don't HAVE to turn it... but the person who had them when I bought the saw from him, coated them in a ton of oil.. and I am not sure I want to use them and get oil residue on the wood..

Amazing.. what saw do you use? and what blades did you use.

TD made a couple for me. He does an awesome job.

I think it came out great.. Better than I could prob do on something like that.

Finished.. 1/4" thick hickory. Measures about 11x15 inches. Has a black backer glued to it. Forgot to mention, it's another Sheila Landry design.

Both are amazing, but I like the left one.

blue painters tape, spray the back of the pattern with 3M-77 and let the pattern tack up for about 30 seconds.. put it on and press it down good. Works like a champ.

Oderless MS have two formulas.. one has to be CARB compliant. I've read it's not as good as the non CARB vesion of the same stuff... I've heard of people using it to remove their pattern applied directly to a project. I've wondered how much residue it leaves, and how long do you have to let the wood dry before you can try to apply a finish. I use painters tape on the wood with the pattern glued to that. Yes I have to spend a little time picking pattern pieces out ( I never do those super intricate portraits) but I can apply a finish right away. No waiting.

I have thought about using an airbrush to put my top coats on. Right now I just buy rattle cans of Minwax semi gloss poly. I would love to save money and buy it by the gallon, but cleanup is why I haven't done it. I could use water based polycrylic, but I still would have to figure out an easy way to clean the air brush. Since I don't have any experience with an air brush, I'm not sure I want to buy one just to find it's just not as easy as grabbing the rattle can for it.

I've done this with the thin stuff I just got.. it worked... I have not tried it if the wood cupped after putting the pattern on. Can't say it stayed perfectly flat.. some cup did come back a few days later.. but it may be good enough to do if you can get your project cut in a day?

My shop is my garage.. I think it's about 26x25ish.. it's an over sized two car under the master bedroom. Unfortunately it also has 3 racks of rodents in it for my snakes.. The rats natural body temp is 105 degrees, and there are about 75 adult ones, not counting all the young ones.. so during the summer, I find my garage gets up to over 80 degrees. I've been thinking of trying to better seal the garage door, and using a portable 12k unit I have to try to keep the temps around 74.. I'm just wondering how much an AC unit bringing the humidity down may cause my wood to cup on me..