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WayneMahler

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Everything posted by WayneMahler

  1. I don't have the DeWalt. But most people use a block of wood to prop the arm up. It doesn't hurt the saw just an Inconvenience.
  2. I just went through 2006 and didn't see it. Maybe another year or something? Wished I could have helped you in a positive direction.
  3. Nice job cutting that Les. Looking forward to the finished piece.
  4. This is all part of the learning process. Still make designer firewood to this day. Keep the faith and practice and it will all come together .
  5. Now that is something I would have never thought about using a scroll saw for Nice way to think out of the box.
  6. Interesting video and though process he went through. Thanks for sharing this.
  7. I guess mine started out building sets for the local high school play. It was amazing to take a pile of wood and turn it into something beautiful. When I stopped I wanted to keep things up so I started wood working at home. My shop just grew from there.
  8. I make my frames as needed. As for stocking them, no too many different and odd sizes. Also I offer different styles of frames and let me customer choose what they want before quoting the project.
  9. Congrats on your show. When I went to Square my sales increased quite a bit. People would be on limited cash and seen something they liked elsewhere and would use their card with me. That's a win win for all.
  10. I have some blades that are my go to for certain projects. As time passes and experience grows I think most people fall into a comfort zone with blades and brands. The holder I built for my shop holds about 20 different configurations and I use about 5 of them normally.
  11. That was really neat. Thanks for sharing it
  12. Scrollsaw is the only magazine I know of published in the US. I used to get Creative Woodworking and crafts till the folded. It's a shame what has happened to a lot publishers but like Les said, the internet and digital media has had a big impact on it.
  13. Sounds like fun. I'll grab a few photos as soon as I get a chance.
  14. I don't paint a lot of my work. The few pieces I do I use a water based craft paint. Seal the project first to prevent raising the fibers.
  15. Something you can do for keeping the lids so they twist off easily is to wrap the threads of the jar with Teflon tape. Same stuff used for plumbing. Finish won't stick to it so opening and closing is good. If the tape wears thin or anything just re-wrap the threads on the jar and your good to go. I learned this one the hard way while using canning or mason jars to keep special blends in. Wrap the clockwise and apply about 3 layers of tape seemed to work best for me.
  16. Nice job Randy. Love the way it looks.
  17. The easiest way I found and quickest is to cut the miter on one end. I go back to my bench, lay the art work on the frame upside down and mark the corner of the art work. Take a small carpenters square and bring that mark up to the top, line up the blade on my chop saw then make the mitered cut. Seems to eliminate getting measurements wrong and does not take much time to do it this.
  18. Nice looking project. As for the peeling issue, I go through that too. I sand mine with 220 before and after cutting. I use the blue painters tape and the final sanding brings it back to super smooth except for the large ones. Be careful not to sand though the top veneer. Using a water based paint will raise the wood fibers so sanding sealer is a good way to help correct that. Also works on soft woods that get blotchy when staining them, pine for example. Spraying the pattern and applying it directly to the wood is another way for help prevent this. Wet it down with mineral spirits then lift, wipe off the remaining adhesive with a soft cloth dampened with mineral spirits then set aside and let it dry. Seems the BB they are putting out anymore is not the quality I got used to back in time. Sometimes you have to make adjustments your procedures to obtain the product your producing.
  19. Nice job cutting them out Jes. As for the little pieces dropping out, I use a playing card for a zero insert, just tape it in place and cut away. Sometimes they will then pop out the top and you can use clear tape to hold them in in needed. I always cut the smallest most sensitive areas out first to help avoid any problems and breakage. Great job, keep up the good work and questions your coming along at a really great pace.
  20. I pretty much do the same as Dan and Katie and others. I find a place least likely to show the entry hole and use a #71 drill bit to cut the veining. I normally use a flat blade and just take my time.
  21. Try taking the lever out and cleaning the areas. May have enough fine saw dust to create friction. I do know that Seyco had replacements for sale. Best of luck Marg.
  22. Mine came equipped with them. I have order replacements and repair kits for the screws. When I first looked at the one from the factory they didn't seem to have them but they ended up, just a really great fit and finish plus they were a little stiff. As for getting the blade all the way to back, I have never had the issue. I am a top feeder so would imagine it is just getting used to the difference in the saws.
  23. Nicely done looks good
  24. Here is my submission. 1/2" Red Oak satin poly finish. Made this for my wife . Sue Mey Pattern .
  25. My shop is in my basement. The local storage places frown upon you working on anything in them. Where I have my unit I rent there isa guy always there doing something and they don't seem to bother him, not sure what he is doing though.
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