OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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Yes, please enlighten us with all the details.
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Very nice. Good luck with your new "toy". I am curious though, who makes the "Excell 21"? I've not heard of it. I tried to do a search but came up empty.
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Steve Good posted on his blog today an excellent video on how to do double bevel inlay/marquetry. I have a great book and I also took a class but this is a great presentation and explains it very well. He has another video on how to do it with a laser but this one is scroll saw.
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Inkscape has been one of my life's failures. No matter how much I study and watch the turorials, I cannot make it do what I want it to do. I'm one of those people who needs a classroom atmosphere so I can ask questions and get prompt answers. I've had better luck with Gimp but not much.
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I had some given to me one time by a friend. He called it "apple" ply. It was 1/2" thick and like yours it was slick on both sides. I used it on my table saw for fence sides.
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About to move from the garage to a shed
OCtoolguy replied to Fedido's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Harbor Freight has some 4 ft LED lights on sale most of the time for $19.95. I bought 4 of them and let me tell you, they are bright. I only use 2 of them most of the time. Well worth the cost. So much better than the florescent lights that I had. -
I remember seeing someone post about using a full sheet of that white magnet stuff on his table top. I was going to buy some but just never did get around to it.
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I agree with everything that has been said here. I hate to take sides. LOL.
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I PM'd him a while back to say we were missing him. He is just trying to stay out of the fray so to speak. I do think he is reading everything posted but just not entering the conversations. Sometimes, that's the smart way to be.
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I use a gallon poured into a coated aluminum pot that my wife gave me. When I'm done dipping I hang my project over that pot until it stops dripping. Then I take a lint free rag and wipe it down. Then set it aside to dry. I have a large plastic funnel that fits the screw cap opening on the can pretty well. I pour it all back in the can and cap it off tightly. I took a piece of 1 x and bored a hole just bigger than the cap and turn the can upside down with the cap in that hole so it sits flat. That puts the air gap at the top. I do that with all of my paint cans too. Keeps the paint from skinning over. I figured it might help the oil too. So far I've not had any problems with the oil going bad.
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I've stack cut 4 layers 1/4" oak and poplar with no problem. I think your biggest problem might be slightly warped wood leaving a gap in the middle. Try arranging your layers so they are as flat as possible.
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I guess I'll have to paint my o/j bottle black.
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Good idea. I forgot about that. Not that I have small pieces that have to be saved but it would stop clogs.
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Best of luck to you. Surgery is never fun.
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I know exactly what you are saying. I was wondering if we could take one wrap of two sided tape on that inlet and then slide the hose over it and clamp it. That way it would have some grip to hold it in place.. I was digging through our dumpster a while back and someone had tossed a part from a furniture shampoo-er or something of that sort. It was brand new and never used. It had just the right hose with it so I kept it and tossed the shampoo head. It's a black corrugated hose and it's just the right diameter so that is what I'm going to use on my setup. I also have the cpap hose that I'm going to use to hook to the pvc piping at the saw. It's a jerry-rigged setup at best but it sure works. I am curious as to what you find on your Seyco vac that acts as a sound reducer. I'd be interested in seeing pics of that.
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Well, it looks like you will be pleasantly surprised once you get the other system set up and working. I have used mine a tiny bit just to see how well it was going to work before I started actually building it into my saw stand. I love it. And with that orange juice bottle muffler, it's very quiet.
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Thanks Travis, that answer satisfies my curiosity completely.
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Travis, please don't take this the wrong way, I'm just asking for my own curiosity. What about in the Coffee Room forum? Isn't that more of a relaxed atmosphere and general topics allowed? I don't spend any time there but I know some folks do. But, if a topic that has nothing to do with our hobby is brought up, can it be chatted upon or debated? I don't care one way or another but just for general consumption so we all know what is what. Thanks and please keep on doing what you do. We ALL appreciate your hard work. OH, and I do remember "bulletin boards".
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Well, both of the tables on my saws are still in very good shape and they have both been used. I think the Chinese saws are more cheaply made in every way possible.
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Les, that seems to be my buying criteria anymore also. I look at what "lifetime" guarantee really means now.
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Well, we will be much closer once I relocate but still a ways away.
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Like a dummy I got the email from SSV yesterday that recaps all the activity and after reading your post with all the pics, I replied to it. Forgetting that it was not SSV but an email. So my reply is floating around out there in the cloud. Anyway, what I said was, now that you have your saw all squared away and are as happy as I have been with my 2 EX's, you won't need to upgrade to a Pegas. That saw will last you a very long time unless you just ask it to do too much. I'm happy that you are now happy. Cheers.
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Bottom line Kevin, how much did end up costing to make your Chinese EX into a Pegas? Your original cost plus the new parts. Curious!
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I for one would appreciate an explanation of what a "climb cut" is and how to execute it. Thanks.
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That's great news Les. Now, go drill a hole!
