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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. I have one of each. They are completely different in the way they operate. I think I would start with the Dewalt. It should serve you well. For doing what I think you are doing, I would have bought a band saw. Unless the corbels are very small. Just my opinion here. Ray
  2. I'm a nut. I took mine apart and inspected the bushings. They were dry and sticky. I cleaned them up and oiled them. My saw runs great. There is no reason to worry about taking them apart. I did one at a time though. Also, the arm that connects to the motor uses sealed bearings and are not serviceable. The arm comes with bearings. $42. Mine is cracked on one end and I will be replacing it soon. It's made of plastic. Not impressed. The weakest part on the saw. I thought about making one out of aluminum. May still give it a try. As Sycamore67 said, they are a simple machine and not much to service on them. I just like to take stuff apart and put it together. Just me. Ray
  3. I might offer him $50 for the spindle sander. They come in handy. But the saw, I'd wait for a better one. Ray
  4. Feel better soon. I hope it's nothing serious. Ray
  5. That's the exact same saw and misc. stuff that I bought for $300. There are better deals out there. Thanks for posting Les. Ray
  6. Yes, for sure Les. We have to remember that an awful lot of American mfgrs went overseas because of labor costs and built factories over there to make the same products that they made here. It's only the Chinese startups that tried to copy our stuff and cheapen it. When I was still in the tool business back in the late 70's or early 80's I was selling the heck out of an OTC product that you could diagnose the charging system on the cars just by hooking it up and reading the 4 LED's. It would tell you if it was the battery, alternator or ??? but it was pricey at that time. It sold for $69.95. A Chinese guy came on my truck dressed in a suit and tie and asked if I had one. I showed it to him and he bought it no questions asked. I was curious enough that I had to ask him why he was buying it dressed like a businessman rather than a mechanic. He told me that he was going to take it to China and "clone" it and bring it back to the states and it would sell for $20. Not long after that, it was true. It sold under a different brand name and cost $20. It did exactly the same thing and the quality was great. What a darned shame that our patent laws meant nothing over there. That was the beginning for me with the Chinese tools. I held off as long as I could but was forced eventually to buy/sell their stuff. A lot of it was from our own companies though so I didn't feel too bad. Ray
  7. Would the Timberline scroll saw blades be from the same place that makes bandsaw blades? Ray
  8. So, who is selling the ones made in Taiwan? That would be the one that I would want. Ray
  9. The way I see it, we can divide them up by mfgr. and that would be 3. Then by size. Then by tooth configuration. It can become very intimidating. I was thinking of making two of them so I could have one at each saw but I think I will just make one and move it back and forth. Someone is going to come up with the perfect one right after I make mine. It always happens. Ray
  10. Thanks to all of you for your replies. The ROS that I have is a single speed from H/F. I think after reading all of your replies that I will end up buying a better ROS sander. I used to have a Makita palm sander and a Dewalt ROS with dust collection but they unfortunately got sold when we went out on the road. I will start shopping the used market first. Thanks again. Ray
  11. I keep reading about folks using a palm sander instead of a random orbital sander. I have an ROS but I don't own a palm sander. I thought I'd ask the question before I run out and buy one. What brands of sanders are preferred here among you folks who have been doing this for a while? I saw one on sale at H/F for $19. I know you don't get much for that price but how bad could it be? I can't afford to buy one of the top quality brands so I was wondering what you all are using. If I hear of too many of you using Dewalt or Porter Cable or ????? I'll hold off and collect more bottles and cans. I'd appreciate any advice, Ray
  12. Scrappile, that's what I bought first from Amazon. Just like that with 60 tubes and stand for $16 if I recall. Anyway, I find that the tubes are too close together. That's why I started that last thread about blade storage. I have seen a few great ideas on here so far. I like the one that Steve Good made but if I make it, I'm going to expand it and make it for a dozen tubes and elevate the second row so the tubes are more visible and can be read easier. I see you have a collection of blades like mine. Brands, sizes, tooth configurations......it gets a bit confusing at times. At least for me being so new to this hobby. I'm trying to do too much at once, I know. But, that's the way I am and always have been. I'm not good at a slow learning curve. I want to know it all right away. Anyway, I just thought I'd throw that out there. Thanks for your post. Ray
  13. I bought a 20# box too of domestics. Great bargain. Nice stuff. Ray
  14. Thanks Dave. I did find the pattern on Steve's blog site. Now, I will try my hand at Inkscape and see what I can figure out. I truly do appreciate your kind offer though. I might have to take you up on it if I can't make Inkscape work. I'm not very learned yet. Too many things to learn and I'm running out of RAM memory. Ray
  15. Not if you're sitting on the John. I told you my shop was small. Barely enough room for the "stool". Ray
  16. I think it's because it's something that you just have to develop over time and experience. If you never get the "feel" for what you are doing, you are not cut out for working with power equipment. Nothing like experience. It's still the best teacher. A certain amount of common sense enters the picture too. Ray
  17. Very nice Dave. I'm humbled by your great work. I only wish I was as talented. Can you give me any idea where on Steve's blog to find the pattern and instructions for that box? I'd like to give it a try. Do you recall what table angle you used? Ray
  18. Thanks once again Kevin. You are a wealth of info. Ray
  19. I have a H/F 1 x 30 with the side disc. It does what I need it to do but it's definitely not a great piece of equipment. I used to have a machine that I bought through Grainger and I think it was Dayton. Fine tool. But a bit more pricey. Ray
  20. What Dick said. Same from Barb and I. Ray
  21. I see Dewalt's here all the time. In fact there are 3 right now and they are all under $300 with light and stand. Hold out for a type 1 if you can. Ray
  22. I sure wish one of those would show up down here by me. Of course when they do, the money is way higher. Or I don't have any at the time. Oh well...... Ray
  23. Kevin, I don't know for sure. I haven't looked that far into it. But it is not obvious like the older one from Hegner is. I do know that many of the newer flourescent bulbs have a starter bulb inside the light bulb itself. I think it's some sort of mercury thing if I remember right. I'll check mine out before ordering. My newest lamp came from H/F so I'm sure whatever was the cheapest to make is what I got. I'll let ya know. Ray
  24. Sounds great. Congrats on the new saw. Let us know how it works out. Ray
  25. I just found on C/L a few of these. The prices are all over the place. One very near where I live, the guy is asking $90. There are two just like it about an hour away for $30 each. I emailed the close by one to see if he would take less. He has had it advertised for 2 weeks. He came back a strong NO and thinks his is worth the $90. I wished him luck. I can't imagine there is a huge market for them. eBay has a bunch too but all back East and no shipping. So, what's the going price for a "vintage typewriter stand"? Ray
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