JustLarry

I cut them from 2 - 5 degrees. Depends on the thickness of the wood and how much you want them to come out. Like others say try some cuts on scrap until you get it the way you want it to be. Cut all pieces from the same direction or some will come out to front and some will come out to back. Larry

Agree with others on Mike's for blades and bits. For the spiral - you will never know until you try them. I use them and they do work for lots of details. I use FD New Spiral 1 and 3/0. Add a dozen of them to your next order and give them a run. Larry

Interesting that they can come up with identical although mirrored images that members here have produced and claim it to be their design. Travis - locking the patterns for members only would offer protection to those that post their patterns here. Like a lock on the door though, it keeps honest people honest. Probably would not stop all but it will eliminate easy pickins. Larry

TripleJ - Looks like ereplacementparts has a good selection of parts for the 694. You can check availability here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-40694-variable-speed-scroll-saw-parts-c-3275_3505_418339.html?q=40-694 check 788 parts here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw788-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-1009_2631_207564.html and warranty on both at these: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/machinery-scroll-saws-dw788.aspx http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/scroll-saws/item/40-694 LArry

Thanks y'all for your kind comments and encouragement. The offer for the blades is great but I probably will not be doing this eye opening type of cutting until around a year from now. Used Gimp and Inkscape for this project and did use the village tutorials on learning how to use them. However I am self taught in cutting both the black and the white at the same time. Later, Larry

They are None brand blade. Do not think they are even available anymore. Guess I covered up the oops fairly well?

From my own pattern. The Invisible Man.

I would PM moderator and/or administrator on a situation of this nature and give them all the information you have on this. Believe they would in turn contact member in question and make determination on what should be done. If fact, I would be surprised if one of them does not send you a PM to get more information as soon as they are aware of this posting. Sometimes patterns may look the same but are actually patterns made by different pattern makers. Larry

Ray, this video will help you locate all the bearings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjgSKrlt7LE Larry

Nice work, Perk. Larry

Never run my clone at high speed. More at 3rd gear than wide open. I believe you are working on the vibration solution with that heavy wood stand. Four legged stands can be very hard to get set level on the floor. Just a little off of level and they will start dancing. I used to have problems with getting the blade holders tight and then loose until a posting on anti-seze compound popped up. Got myself a tube of that and with very little effort knobs are tightened and loosened. Larry

Good work. It is addicting. Larry

I use tite bond and elmers wood glue. Very thin layers of tiny dots help prevent squeeze out. Also have pin nailer. For clamping I often use large piece piece of 1/2 ply with old tee shirt on it, lay face of project on tee shirt, backer on top then another large piece of 1/2 ply on backer and a couple of bricks, cinder block or rail road rail pieces on top for weight. Not very successful with CA glue. Seems my fingers want to stick together more than the item I am trying to glue up. Larry

Steven, I use the new spiral. The ends have a slight twist to them so I place the ends on a piece of metal and lightly tap them flat with a small hammer. Still have a few flat end spirals. Both the new spiral and flat end spirals have the same ends with slight twist. The new spiral has more cutting teeth than the flat end. Picture of spiral blade on Mike's page shows the spiral is full spiral from end to end. The new spiral, I believe, is the latest design to spiral blades not that they have just come out with them. Found post today on another site from Oct 2010 about the new spiral. larry

Feel your pain. Been there done that but I will not tell anyone. Taping to a cheap ply backer will be my next try at resizing a finished piece. Even when making my own frames, sometimes have to resize. Must be my tape measure is off by a bit? Larry

Been using both spiral and flat blades all the time. Depends on what I am cutting. Flat blades, spiral and riding the bike all have a learning curve. I can mess up with either blade and would probably still fall over if I got on the bike. The earlier spiral blades could make you swear and stomp the floor but better design, better cutting. Not adding my two cents because I am saving for more blades. Larry

Looks like you are making room for some new blades. Good cuttings. Larry

Neat idea. Larry

Been doing that. Is a good way to save money. The more I save on printing is more to put into blades Larry

Ray, Here are some pictures of my table I posted last July on another forum. Front of table is 25 1/4 inches high. Back is 30 1/2 inches high. Table top is 18 x 26. Front legs are 2x4. Rear leg is 2x6. Legs are cut at 10 degrees to join top. Saw table sits at 32 inches above floor and front of saw table extends about 8 inches to the front of table I made. Foot switch sits on floor a little right of center of front legs. The front legs do not get in the way when I saw and saw is about 6 inches from my chest when most of cutting is done. I sit in a swivel office chair on rollers with back. Back lets me lean back to relax. Rollers allow me to move back and forth quickly when turning a long piece of wood usually without stopping the cut when I move. I do not have any problems with chair trying to move on its own. Chair adjusts for seat to be between 15 and 20 inches above floor. I am around 5’11†and the saw sits a couple of inches high for me. Next time I move saw I plan on cutting legs down a bit. A long time ago I heard you can determine the height of your work table by placing your chin on your fist and looking straight ahead and with arm straight down height of elbow above floor is height you need to set your work surface. My table was made of reclaimed wood. I figure it does not need to be pretty to work good but it does need to work pretty good. Larry

In response to comments that blades could still be ordered from Mike: I sent him an e-mail this this evening asking if he was still taking orders. Here is his answer: Hi Larry, I am still getting order but tell the customers that I faxed the order to the Wooden Teddy Bear. www.woodenteddybear.com Phone # 1-503-760-1614 I did not sell any blades after last Sunday. Mike On the scrollsawer.com forum he posted that wooden teddy bear also bought his home page. So, maybe by ordering from Mike's Workshop is the way to get the 3/0 spirals for now. Larry

Believe you get those fonts by downloading one of Steve's pattern printer programs. Larry

I did a search for Niqua blades in UK and got several hits for availability there. Larry

Looking good! Larry

Ray. Mineral Spirits(MS) or the cheaper Paint Thinner(PT) that states "100% Mineral Spirits" is the way to go. I use the Paint Thinner. Soft rag or soft bristle brush will remove the glue after it sits a bit. It will not interfere with staining the wood. Another trick MS or PT does is - wet the surface and you will get a sneak look at what the wood will look like after you apply finish. It will show any glue that is left on, bad sanded spots and the other general bad stuff you do not notice until after the finish is applied. Also is a way to remove the hidden sanding dust. Just wet and wipe off. Be careful on the fragile parts. Most of my cuttings get the PT treatment before the finish goes on. Use with lots of ventilation and hang the damp rag where it will dry. Note: I do not use the "low odor" PT as it tends to leave a white residue on the wood. I also try to remember to slip on the rubber gloves before I use the PT. Larry