fredfret
-
Posts
505 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by fredfret
-
Address of the dumpster?
-
Staining & Sanding Your Scroll Saw Projects
fredfret replied to Toothpick's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use watco oil most of the time applied using the dip, wipe method. I rarely stain because it makes such a mess and I suck at it. Painting is reserved for toy cars there I use rattle cans or brush on acrylics starting to use rit dye and food coloring then spray shellac. -
You may want to clean the ends of your blades. There is a small amount of oil left on them from the manufacturing process and while not a problem for the finish the buildup of it on the blade clamps can be a problem. I use s piece of 400 grit paper and just wipe off both sides and ends of every blade I use. Others use solvents but I try to stay clear of them. Way to many baths is weird chemicals from aircraft and equipment than I really needed. Fredfret
-
When you have to start pushing on the wood instead of guiding it.
-
The blade you are using likes way to large for fine detail my guess the wood is 1/8th or 1/4 thick for that I would use a #3 or #1. On the spot turns taka a while to master. I use my index finger to hold the wood down and the other hand to turn it. That is index finger acts as a pivot point. After doing it for 20 years I don't even think about it anymore. Get some scrap wood and practice then practice . Your work looks very good just keep at it. Fredfret
-
Any blade with reverse teeth will tend to lift the work. For 3d you do n I think need the reverse teeth as the bottom of the work is not finish side. I use fd 5 non reverse.
-
I use a dust be gone mask. Any dust mask is better than no dust mask.
-
I use needle files. I try to use blades that leave a smooth cut to eliminate as much sanding as possible. I also have a set of diamond burrs for my dermal tool but very seldom use them.
-
I would still let them dry for a few months before cutting.
-
I never use a plastic container if I can help it. I buy or save aluminum trays, pans when I have several things to finish they hold the finish and can be cleaned and used again or trashed. For single items I have used zip lock bags for a quick dunk but never keep them for more than a few minutes I dispose of the bags in a metal trash can used just for oily rags an bags.
-
The notch does not appear to be any smaller than the solid (non tooth) area of the blade location of the notch when installed MAY create an issue but I don't see it being a major weakness. The point notch I can see being an issue if the access hole is close to the size of the thickest part of the blade. Fredfret
-
I'm sort of confused over the whole C/A glue subject
fredfret replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Hobby lobby, any rc hobby shop carries several types of ca glue and accelerator -
Happy thanksgiving! For all our problems we still live in the best country on earth. Thankful for all the men and women who will not be able to be home for the feast. Please remember them. Fredfret
-
The hardest parts of this pattern are the antenna and the grill. I would make sure to protect those areas after cutting by leaving the waste pieces in and taping them. Take your time
-
May I recommend slowing the saw speed and your feed rate. Spirals take some time to get used to. They are a tool that scrollers can use for larger projects.
-
For the cops are coming. I ask when to expect them as I'm tired of running or good the can feed me at the jail.
-
Forgot to add I use a jig to hold parts in no tape.
-
For compound cuts I attach patterns directly to the wood.
-
One way to get better is to challenge yourself with more difficult patterns. You will be very careful and learn more than by just cutting the same thing. That is a great pattern. Good luck with it. Fredfret
-
I use scotch blue painters tape and with the exception of some fiber damage ( both with short and long term attachment) I have had no problems removing it when keeping the project in a climate controlled location. I had a project that had to take a long break due to work and other things ( think 6 years) when finished the tape came off fine. I did a project for a friend that needed to be done outside (dust) left it in the shop (90 deg) for 3 days with the tape and pattern on. After a day of heating, mineral spirits and sanding I managed to get all the tape off. Make sure you keep the environment in mind. Fred fret
-
Very nice. I believe this level of project is a great challenge and a wonderful skill and confidence builder. If you take your time and remember each cut is done one at a time it's not that bad. Innar you did a very good job. Fredfret
-
Metal that thick can be cut but you have to use blades made for cutting metal. Stainless steel I doubt you can cut that in an efficient way. Fretwork can be cut using any wood you like. Some woods are very brittle and fine detail breaks easily.
-
Blade not at 90 degree to table, side pressure. Front to back alignment could also be at work. It only takes a very small amount of offset like .25 degree to cause this.
-
You are getting some "fuzzies" and the edge of the blade hole is catching them. For compound cutting I glue straight to the wood or tape the wood then glue straight to the tape (blue Painters).
-
Most hobby stores like hobby lobby and Michael's sell rounds for wood burning that are cut from basswood.
