fredfret
-
Posts
505 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by fredfret
-
Looks Good! I see you are cutting plexiglass and did a very good job on a somewhat tough material to not mess up. Your choice of wood the sign teaches a good lesson on grain and detail. Course grain and fine detail may not be the best combo but the cutting looks real good. Trust me I have had more than my share of designer firewood some after many hours of cutting. Keep at it. Fredfret
-
I use a #9 after nailing the book together in the waste don't recommend a reverse tooth blade as the dust stays in the kerf. Fredfret
-
Canned air usually found in the electronics section of the store. I use it for small areas indoors and the compressor for the large areas that I do outdoors. I have also used unwaxed dental floss to clear dust from cuttings. Fredfret
-
A walnut hollow woodburner is about 20 bucks at Michaels. I use a colwood detailer to sign things for my family.
-
Direct drive. 13.5 in diameter table, 1year warranty, no dust collection. Fredfret Wichita, Ks
-
Decorative not for functional use I hope. Great job thou.
-
I cut them off with a pair of wire cutters and use the metal lid inside. I keep the lid when I run out and use it with the replacement can.
-
Dewalt is metric I think m6. Bushton uses 1/4-20 Fredfret
-
Barb, If you use a regular puzzle pattern just turn it 45 degrees make sure it covers the complete picture then trim the pattern to size. Fredfret
-
I think the black gets cut out. The center of the a,o,r, and scissors could be cut then glued to the backer by saving the rest of the letter or scissors for locators. Letters are hard. Fredfret
-
Ray, I've tried them and they are good blades very sharp and do last a long time. They are also quite agressive. I don't do production cutting or try to make large numbers of any thing in a short period. I like a less agressive blade for thick stock 1.5 inch they would be great. Most of my stuff is in 3/4 or thinner stock. By all means try a dz of each size you may love them. Blades are like trucks some like ford some gmc some ram. Fred fret
-
I have a Colwood detailer basic kit I think I paid 150 for it in a plastic carrying box. Most wood carving companies carry colwood or razortip both very good tools. Fredfret
-
Good idea!! I use the saw to make a teardrop shape to blend the hole into the line. Fredfret
-
Mineral oil is nontoxic but never completely dries. Any finish sold in the us is supposed to be nontoxic when completely cured. Fredfret
-
Possible copyright issue. If you draw your own using the basic premise that would be ok. Otherwise you need to ask the designer . Fredfret
-
Scrappile I agree about the size with the Pegas MG blades I go down one size from the FD blades with no loss of control or capability. As a top feeder blade flexability is not very important as I don't really bend the blade to install it. But I have noticed they do seem more flexable. Fredfret
-
I like the Modified Geometry blades a lot they are reverse only on the bottom but I think they perform well. They are a little more aggressive than the FDUR Try a dozen then decide. Fredfret Wichita, Ks
-
Aint Never Scrolled With a Chain Saw Before
fredfret replied to Rockytime's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Try using the 0.100 in heavy duty blade from Olson. I used it for some 2" stock prep, cutting to length and width. Cut fine but no way could it cut anything that had curves. Fredfret -
Bill is correct there are so many opinions expressed on forums that new people can become confused especially about blades. I recommend finding a blade chart and learning what the Mfr. recommends for different uses. The Olson one is one of the best as it gives most blade configurations and sizes with recommended uses. This provides a starting point. Determine what type projects interest you then what material check the chart for a recommended style and size then try a dozen maybe a different mfr ( a size 5 will be very close to a size 5 by a different mfr.) Getting into tooth count, blade thickness, tooth configuration can confuse me and I have 20 years experience. Thin wood use smaller blades thick wood use larger blades Metal use metal cutting blades. I have my favorite blades for cutting jigsaw puzzles ( FD Puzzle) Portraits ( FD new spiral and #1 Pegas mg) other than that wood, details and what I have determines. Fredfret
-
1 inch clear pine could be very hard to find as most starts as 1 inch and is planed or sanded to 3/4 by the mills. Fredfret
-
I use both hands to guide the blade into the clamp hold the clamp with blade inserted in my right and push the arm down with the left tightening the clamp with the right. I hope this helps. I seldom have a problem. Fredfret BM-26 and DW788
-
For 1/4 I use #1 or for high detail 2/0. I have both pegas and flying Dutchman I don't have a real favorite.Fred fret
-
I would buy local but all the stores here only have the really crappy blades.
-
First Puzzle project... Blade selection and questions
fredfret replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Try each blade on scrap wood using a pattern similar to the one you plan to make the project from. decide what cut best fits your taste/idea of the correct fit and then use that blade. I cut the whole puzzle with #3 blades for kids puzzles I use a #5 for a looser fit. Using a #1 or 2/0 for "standup) puzzles is way too small for me. Picture puzzles is 2/0 or even smaller but the wood is only 1/4" thick not 3/4 like for standup puzzles. Fredfret Wichita, Ks -
I found the pattern at diypuzzles.WordPress .com. copyright info is unknown . You could contact the magazine for a leftover copy. Fredfret
