fredfret
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Everything posted by fredfret
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Staining & Sanding Your Scroll Saw Projects
fredfret replied to Toothpick's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use watco oil most of the time applied using the dip, wipe method. I rarely stain because it makes such a mess and I suck at it. Painting is reserved for toy cars there I use rattle cans or brush on acrylics starting to use rit dye and food coloring then spray shellac. -
You may want to clean the ends of your blades. There is a small amount of oil left on them from the manufacturing process and while not a problem for the finish the buildup of it on the blade clamps can be a problem. I use s piece of 400 grit paper and just wipe off both sides and ends of every blade I use. Others use solvents but I try to stay clear of them. Way to many baths is weird chemicals from aircraft and equipment than I really needed. Fredfret
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How to understand classification of scroll saw blades
fredfret replied to Ash's topic in Scrollers Q&A
The r stands for reverse meaning the blade has reverse teeth at the bottom of the blade. The difference between a 3 and 5 for example is only a few thousandth . Different manufacturer us slightly different sizes some use size 2. Check the tpi teeth per inch, and size in thousands for all dimensions you will find the difference is pretty small in some cases between mfr a and mfr b. -
How to make a back board and frame my scroll saw art piece?
fredfret replied to Ash's topic in Works In Progress & Tutorials
I use black felt for most of my backers. I simply place the project on the felt after I put a few dabs of wood glue on the project back where it will not show then press the project on to the felt, allow to dry for a while and use a pair of scissors or a craft knife to trim around the edge. If i.m using wood I mark the backer then cut it to size , paint/stain then glue using a little more glue than with the felt. I seldom frame things as my taste in frames differs from the customers and they feel like they are saving money as I don't charge them for a frame they may not like. Fredfret -
Love the rope carving. The rest are great also.
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When you have to start pushing on the wood instead of guiding it.
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The blade you are using likes way to large for fine detail my guess the wood is 1/8th or 1/4 thick for that I would use a #3 or #1. On the spot turns taka a while to master. I use my index finger to hold the wood down and the other hand to turn it. That is index finger acts as a pivot point. After doing it for 20 years I don't even think about it anymore. Get some scrap wood and practice then practice . Your work looks very good just keep at it. Fredfret
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Any blade with reverse teeth will tend to lift the work. For 3d you do n I think need the reverse teeth as the bottom of the work is not finish side. I use fd 5 non reverse.
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I use a dust be gone mask. Any dust mask is better than no dust mask.
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I use needle files. I try to use blades that leave a smooth cut to eliminate as much sanding as possible. I also have a set of diamond burrs for my dermal tool but very seldom use them.
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I would still let them dry for a few months before cutting.
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I never use a plastic container if I can help it. I buy or save aluminum trays, pans when I have several things to finish they hold the finish and can be cleaned and used again or trashed. For single items I have used zip lock bags for a quick dunk but never keep them for more than a few minutes I dispose of the bags in a metal trash can used just for oily rags an bags.
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Hotshot is that last one some of your work? Several of these had me laughing.
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The notch does not appear to be any smaller than the solid (non tooth) area of the blade location of the notch when installed MAY create an issue but I don't see it being a major weakness. The point notch I can see being an issue if the access hole is close to the size of the thickest part of the blade. Fredfret
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I'm sort of confused over the whole C/A glue subject
fredfret replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Hobby lobby, any rc hobby shop carries several types of ca glue and accelerator -
Happy thanksgiving! For all our problems we still live in the best country on earth. Thankful for all the men and women who will not be able to be home for the feast. Please remember them. Fredfret
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Glad you are okay and back. Hopefully your home gets repaired soon.
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The hardest parts of this pattern are the antenna and the grill. I would make sure to protect those areas after cutting by leaving the waste pieces in and taping them. Take your time
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I have never cut anything at 45 degrees with a scrollsaw. I would make a very rough cut then use my disc sander to sand up to the line.
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May I recommend slowing the saw speed and your feed rate. Spirals take some time to get used to. They are a tool that scrollers can use for larger projects.
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At least a #3. The detail of the pattern may dictate a smaller but that will probably mean broken blades. Post a picture when you are done.
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Try Rick Hutchinson's site scrollsaws.Com he has a lot of information and it is short topics.
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Olson, pegas, flying Dutchman are all quality blades some swear by one brand or the other. Others swear at them. Try a few of each brand in the same size and style. Your cutting style and saw will make you like one better than the other. There are many dealers of all these brands prices are very close . Welcome and good luck. Fredfret
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If I remember correctly the speed control is on top of the upper arm in front of the power switch. I know that the switch can fail due to dust/dirt getting in could be that the speed control pot is dirty and is causing the problem. I haven't used my dewalt in 5 years and never had the problem myself just a guess. Fredfret
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Zero clearance table or something to cover the most of the blade hole in the table. This happens due to the table having a large hole and therefore not supporting the wood as well. I have used business cards, tape and a sheet of plexiglass with 1/8 in hole drilled in the center for my zero clearance needs.
