dgman
-
Posts
6,555 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Content Type
Store
Profiles
How-To & Articles
Scroll Saw Reviews
Clubs & Organizations
Clubs & Organizations International
Pattern Shop
Suppliers
Village University
Help Desk
Forums
Gallery
eBooks
Everything posted by dgman
-
I have a lot of experience cutting on a scroll saw. Have used Olson brand 2/0 skip tooth and Reverse skip tooth blades with great success, but when I tried FD Scroll Reverse 2/0 blades I could not control them no matter what I tried! I finally gave them away.
-
If Seyco needs someone to test drive one, I will volunteer!
-
I agree with Ike and Dan however I use an FD UR 3 blade for stand up puzzles. It make for a narrower kerf so the puzzles stays together better.
-
Nice work Rusty. What did it warm up to?
-
They came out great Dan!
-
What a wonderful gift Kieth! A great pattern and great execution, and great pictures too! What's not to love!
-
Beautiful cut Jim! Combining the two patterns to suite your needs was brilliant!
-
Nice work Pete! I made a bunch of them this past year and sold half of them @ $15 a piece.
-
Cool Jim!
-
Nice work Keith!
-
Thanks everyone! I was an original member of an other forum that started the ornament exchange. Although I no longer participate there, I still exchange with others. Members that I knew from that forum include, but not limited to include Marg, Danny, Rob Roy, Merlin, Kefie, JT the Clockman, Newfie and Marmoh. There are many others that aren't coming to mind. It's true I need a bigger tree, I just don't have the room!
-
Looking good Pete!
-
That pup needs a cookie! Beautiful work!
-
Ole DW's back! Very nice box DW!
-
Everything on the tree was was made by someone else! As you can see, I have yours front and center!
-
i dont use Danish oil, but I do use the 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I keep the oil in quart size mason jars. I pour the oil in an old metal backing pan and soak the project in it. I let it soak for a few minutes then take the project out and let the excess oil drip into the pan. Then using a clean lint free rag, I wipe the rest of the oil off. I may use compressed air to blow the oil out of small fret holes. Then let the project dry for 24-36 hours depending on humidity. I then pour the oil back into the jar. Make sure you don't pile up the used rags as they can spontaneously combust. I lay them across the edge of an old metal trash can for a day to dry, then you can toss them. For me, the oil brings out the grain and color of the wood without using stain. I then use a spray semi gloss Laqcuer as a top coat.
-
This is on a shelf on the middle landing of our staircase. Handmade ornaments from exchanges I have done over the years from folks from all over the world. I can't keep track of all the makers, so if you see something you made, feel free to take credit. I actually have more than I can fit on this tree!
- 20 replies
-
- 14
-
-
Thanks guys, it was a lot of fun to cut!
-
Great work Todd but it needs a Moose!
-
One thing I didn't mention above, and is the most important tip of all is make sure your table is completely perpendicular to the blade. Do not trust the angle gauge on your saw. Use a small square or a protractor or even the side of a credit card. If you are not square, the pieces will not fit together from both sides of the puzzle
-
Do not use puzzle blades for thick standup puzzles. They are a 3/0 blade and designed for jigsaw puzzles. I use FD UR #3 blades for standup puzzles. Anything smaller will force you to apply lateral pressure on the blade causing it to cut at an angle. When that happens, your pieces will not fit together from either side of the puzzle. I use my sanding mop to round the edges of the pieces. It's quick and easy to do. Make sure you keep a firm hold of the piece as they tend to go flying across you shop.
-
Excellent Ike!
-
Nice work Jerry!
