dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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I don't cut the Woodimal puzzles, but t do cut a lot of standup puzzles. I always use hard woods like Cherry, Maple and Red Oak. Why? Because the harder, the less likely to break. Poplar and Alder are hardwoods but are softer than others, so I don't use them.
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Nice work Don!
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Great work Don, they should be well received!
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Excellent work Steve! Your neighbor is going to love them! -
Al, yes, the fine details require the 2/0 size blade. But that's ME. I'm sure it could be done with larger blades, like maybe a #1, but I would prefer the smaller blade.Someone mention that the smaller blades require less tension, not true! I use as high a tension as I do with larger blades, and I rarely break blades!
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The framed portrait is from an issue of Creative Woodworks and Crafts, now Defuncked. It's by Dirk Boleman and should be available at The Art Factory.
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Here's a couple Al. Santa's Workshop by the late great Dirk Boleman. Pictures aren't that great as I just took them with my phone. The other is a clock by Dirk called Santa's Workshop Clock. If you look over Mrs. Clause shoulder, you will see the same clock! Naturally, I used larger blades for the larger cuts, but used Olson 2/0 reverse tooth blades for the fine details.
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I have a lot of experience cutting on a scroll saw. Have used Olson brand 2/0 skip tooth and Reverse skip tooth blades with great success, but when I tried FD Scroll Reverse 2/0 blades I could not control them no matter what I tried! I finally gave them away.
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If Seyco needs someone to test drive one, I will volunteer!
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I agree with Ike and Dan however I use an FD UR 3 blade for stand up puzzles. It make for a narrower kerf so the puzzles stays together better.
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Nice work Rusty. What did it warm up to?
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They came out great Dan!
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What a wonderful gift Kieth! A great pattern and great execution, and great pictures too! What's not to love!
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Beautiful cut Jim! Combining the two patterns to suite your needs was brilliant!
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Nice work Pete! I made a bunch of them this past year and sold half of them @ $15 a piece.
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Cool Jim!
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Nice work Keith!
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Thanks everyone! I was an original member of an other forum that started the ornament exchange. Although I no longer participate there, I still exchange with others. Members that I knew from that forum include, but not limited to include Marg, Danny, Rob Roy, Merlin, Kefie, JT the Clockman, Newfie and Marmoh. There are many others that aren't coming to mind. It's true I need a bigger tree, I just don't have the room!
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Looking good Pete!
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That pup needs a cookie! Beautiful work!
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Ole DW's back! Very nice box DW!
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Everything on the tree was was made by someone else! As you can see, I have yours front and center!
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i dont use Danish oil, but I do use the 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I keep the oil in quart size mason jars. I pour the oil in an old metal backing pan and soak the project in it. I let it soak for a few minutes then take the project out and let the excess oil drip into the pan. Then using a clean lint free rag, I wipe the rest of the oil off. I may use compressed air to blow the oil out of small fret holes. Then let the project dry for 24-36 hours depending on humidity. I then pour the oil back into the jar. Make sure you don't pile up the used rags as they can spontaneously combust. I lay them across the edge of an old metal trash can for a day to dry, then you can toss them. For me, the oil brings out the grain and color of the wood without using stain. I then use a spray semi gloss Laqcuer as a top coat.
