dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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You didn't sat what kind of wood it is. Personally, I don't like staining, and I don't like a shiny finish. I would soak in a 50/50 mixture of boiled linnseed oil and mineral spirits. The oil will bring out the grain and natural color of the wood. The MS allows the oil to dry in 24-36 hours. After soaking, wipe off all excess oil, then let dry. After dry I like to use a semi gloss spray lacquer. This is how I finish all my scroll saw projects and have been happy with it for many years. P.S. You did an excellent job on the ornament!
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Great work Dan, and a great gesture!
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Very nice work Becky!
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I think a better question would be who are the great pattern designers, scroll saw instructors and promoters. That list is endless so I won't even start.
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It's great when your work can demand such a high price. It says a lot about your work, congratulations Brian!
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Beautiful boxes Ron, you are quite the woodworker!
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Way to go Monti! It looks great!
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Great work Todd!
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Great work Kris!
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Nice work Mike, it's nice to see your smiling face!
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Nice work Scott!
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Beautiful work Tony! Just goes to show you don't NEED expensive tools to complete an Intarsia project, but it sure helps! Great work!
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Monti, Scrollsaw Woodworking and Crafts used to be called Scrollsaw Workshop. Currently, Scrollsaw Workshop is Steve Good's blog and community forum.
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Personally I would not make any scrollsaw project for outdoors unless it was painted, and I hate to paint!
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I don't subscribe to any magazines but I would recommend Wood Magazine for general woodworking and Scrollsaw Woodworking and crafts for great scroll saw projects and patterns.
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Great looking plaque Denny, nice job!
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Great work Denny!
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Hi Stephanie, welcome to the Village! So many sanding options. My number one is a random orbital sander. Most of my projects meet the RO sander. Other sanders I use: 1" belt sander, oscillating spindle sander, 4x46 stationary belt with 9" disk sander and a 4x9" inflatable sander for shaping Intarsia pieces. I also have mop sanders in 180 and 220 grits for softening and rounding edges on stand up puzzles. I also have a couple of portable belt sanders that haven't seen the light of day in years. So with that, come on in and join the fun!
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I could be wrong, but it looks like the bevel cuts are done so you can remove those sections to cut the inside cuts in them as most saws won't acomadate the length of the project using flat blades. If you use spiral blade for the inside cuts, you don't need to remove those sections.
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If you replaced the thumb screw and set screw and still slipping, then you have either cracked the blade holder or stripped the female threads. You will have to replace the blade holder.
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Excellent work Steve!
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Hey Loren, welcome to the Village! Two things to look at. First, make sure the table is a perfect 90° to the blade. Don't trust the gauge. Use a small square, or a small protractor, or even the side of a credit card to check that the table is square to the blade. Second, make sure you have proper tension on the blade. You want to hear a high "ping" when you pluck the blade. If you hear a "clunk", it's not tight enough. So, come on in and join the fun!
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Very nice Monti! I see you used some of that Purpleheart. Pretty hard cutting, huh?
