dgman

They were 95% FD UR blades in various sizes. The rest were Pegus blades. The UR blades have a reverse tooth every third tooth. When the blade starts to dull, i reposition it to get fresh teeth. This is easy to do with the Pegas saw. I load the blade as low in the clamp as i can. When dull, i move it up in the holder as far as i can so there are fresh teeth cutting. It’s like doubling the life of the blade! This works on any skip tooth blade and FD UR reverse blades. If you use a regular reverse tooth blade, you will loose the reverse teeth when you reposition it.

Very nice job! I cut that one a few years ago. Mine have a Cherry frame.

Just for the heck of it, I decided to save all the blades i used this year, starting in January till today. I am done cutting for the year, so i decided to count them. 576, which comes to 48 dozen or 4 gross. I actually thought it would be more. Now, what to do with them? Maybe I’ll send them to Jimmy!

Welcome to the Village Roger! Lots of folks here willing to help, just ask. It will help us knowing what part of the world you are in.

I have my scroll saw as well as all other machines hooked up to my dust collector. A lot quieter and better suction. I don’t have it switched to the saw but have a remote control. It stays on between blade changes. Been doing this way for twenty five years. It also has a homemade separator.

I used to do stained glass in another life. Still have a glass grinder, it has a diamond wheel and water reservoir. It works like a drum sander, but for glass. If you think about it, its like intarsia but for glass.

What a beautiful piece Richard! Walnut is indeed a joy to work with!

For 3/4” puzzles I like to use a #3 FD UR reverse blade. You need to make sure the blade is a perfect 90 degrees to the table and make sure you don’t apply any lateral pressure to the blade. When you do, this bevels the cut and the pieces will not slide out on both sides.

Nice work Don!

Great work Marg, it looks just like him! I assume you are a fan?

It looks like a Jet Saw clone. Bottom feeding only. Otherwise, it looks good!

Beautiful work Barb! Question, I have never heard of pink maple. Can you tell me about it?

Not for me. I learned on a bottom feeding saw. When the DeWalt saw first came out, it was advertised as a top feeding saw. I so hated bottom feeding that I had to have one. I quickly learned to top feed and never went back!

Jerry, never use silicone on woodworking machines. Silicone can interfere with finishes. It can cause fisheyes in your finish.

Very Nice!

They all look great Jerry! I make about 100 each year and they all get sold! 50 are sold to a local bird feed store and the rest I sell at a two day Christmas Boutique coming up. If any remain, I give away to friends, the mailman, ups driver and so on. Btw, I never get tired of seeing what everyone makes!

Question, why do you want to replace the spring? It is only there to apply tension to the lever. If the lever is popping out of tension, the lever needs to be replaced. It is a common replaceable item.

Beautiful work and well deserved award Marg, congratulations!

It’s important to understand what causes the warp or twist, and for the most part, its uneven moister absorption or drying. If you purchase thin boards, it is important to provide equal air movement around the board. If it is just a few boards, then just lean them against a wall or work bench to allow equal air movement. Do not lay them flat on any surface. This does not allow for equal air movement. The same applies if you resaw or plane your boards. You must provide for equal air circulation around the board. If it is a lot of boards, it is best to stack and sticker the boards. That is stacking the boards on top of each other with stickers or thin sticks in between each board to allow for equal air circulation around each board. Either way, you must allow for some time to allow the boards to equalize to the environment of your shop. As for trying to take the cup out of a warped board, you might spray a little water on the cupped side of the board, then apply a little heat with a heat gun or hair dryer to the wetted surface. This trick works sometimes. I make and sell a lot of ornaments each year, so I stack cut all of my ornaments. Beacuse I have a full woodworking shop, I can mill all of my thin stock. I either plane or resaw my blanks to 3/16” thickness. I will usually stack three layers. If any of the boards have a cup in them, I’ll stack the cups against each other, then clamp the stacks together along the length of the boards. This will flatten the stack. Then I apply hot glue along all edges of the stack. After the hot glue sets and removing the clamps, the stack will be reasonably flat enough to cut. These picture show a stack of boards I bought online before I got my band saw for resawing. I cut the stickers from 3/4” pine.

Nice, I like it!

See if this helps dick

Now that is a score!

Start making toys to donate to hospitals and needy children.

In addition to that, you need to seal the ends with latex paint or end grain sealer available at any woodworking store or catalog. If you don’t seal the ends, the boards will check or split. Also available at Amazon.

Very cool Dan!