dgman

For 3/4” puzzles I like to use a #3 FD UR reverse blade. You need to make sure the blade is a perfect 90 degrees to the table and make sure you don’t apply any lateral pressure to the blade. When you do, this bevels the cut and the pieces will not slide out on both sides.

Nice work Don!

Great work Marg, it looks just like him! I assume you are a fan?

It looks like a Jet Saw clone. Bottom feeding only. Otherwise, it looks good!

Beautiful work Barb! Question, I have never heard of pink maple. Can you tell me about it?

Not for me. I learned on a bottom feeding saw. When the DeWalt saw first came out, it was advertised as a top feeding saw. I so hated bottom feeding that I had to have one. I quickly learned to top feed and never went back!

Jerry, never use silicone on woodworking machines. Silicone can interfere with finishes. It can cause fisheyes in your finish.

Very Nice!

They all look great Jerry! I make about 100 each year and they all get sold! 50 are sold to a local bird feed store and the rest I sell at a two day Christmas Boutique coming up. If any remain, I give away to friends, the mailman, ups driver and so on. Btw, I never get tired of seeing what everyone makes!

Question, why do you want to replace the spring? It is only there to apply tension to the lever. If the lever is popping out of tension, the lever needs to be replaced. It is a common replaceable item.

Beautiful work and well deserved award Marg, congratulations!

It’s important to understand what causes the warp or twist, and for the most part, its uneven moister absorption or drying. If you purchase thin boards, it is important to provide equal air movement around the board. If it is just a few boards, then just lean them against a wall or work bench to allow equal air movement. Do not lay them flat on any surface. This does not allow for equal air movement. The same applies if you resaw or plane your boards. You must provide for equal air circulation around the board. If it is a lot of boards, it is best to stack and sticker the boards. That is stacking the boards on top of each other with stickers or thin sticks in between each board to allow for equal air circulation around each board. Either way, you must allow for some time to allow the boards to equalize to the environment of your shop. As for trying to take the cup out of a warped board, you might spray a little water on the cupped side of the board, then apply a little heat with a heat gun or hair dryer to the wetted surface. This trick works sometimes. I make and sell a lot of ornaments each year, so I stack cut all of my ornaments. Beacuse I have a full woodworking shop, I can mill all of my thin stock. I either plane or resaw my blanks to 3/16” thickness. I will usually stack three layers. If any of the boards have a cup in them, I’ll stack the cups against each other, then clamp the stacks together along the length of the boards. This will flatten the stack. Then I apply hot glue along all edges of the stack. After the hot glue sets and removing the clamps, the stack will be reasonably flat enough to cut. These picture show a stack of boards I bought online before I got my band saw for resawing. I cut the stickers from 3/4” pine.

Nice, I like it!

See if this helps dick

Now that is a score!

Start making toys to donate to hospitals and needy children.

In addition to that, you need to seal the ends with latex paint or end grain sealer available at any woodworking store or catalog. If you don’t seal the ends, the boards will check or split. Also available at Amazon.

Very cool Dan!

A few weeks ago, I smelled smoke in our family room. I looked around and found nothing. There was no smoke, just a smell. This happened a couple mornings for about an hour, then would go away. On the third day, I came in from the shop to get a drink, and this time there was actual smoke. No fire just smoke. It was coming from my wife’s area where she sits and stitches her cross stitch projects. She uses a lighted magnifying glass on a stand. The way it was standing, sunlight coming in through the window was focused on some books next to her chair. Fortunately, there was no real fire but it did burn several of her books but nothing else. I’m just happy that I was at home and caught it before there was actual fire! This reminded me of another incident. A few years ago I was at a friends shop that had the same thing happen to his DeWalt saw. He had a magnifying light mounted to his saw sitting in front of a window. Sunlight from the window shining through the magnifier melted all the plastic on his saw! So, this is a warning, if you use a lighted magnifier, make sure it does not sit next to a window!

Congratulations Barb, it is well deserved!

More information is needed. What kind of wood are you using? Are you using blue painters tape or are you using clear packing tape. Do you not usually use the blower?

The pattern is drawn like a portrait pattern. All black with no discernible lines to follow. The waste is white. Yes, it is cutable that way, but with my tired eye, it is very hard to cut. So I had it redrawn with red lines to make it easier to follow. Here’s the original pattern

Yes, that is Birchbark’s pattern. It is one of my favorite patterns also. I converted it to a line pattern to make it easier to follow the lines. It can be found in the free pattern section here at the village. Unfortunately, Russel hasn’t been on for quite a while.

So sorry about the loss of your sister Charlie. I’ve been there with several family members. It’s a tough thing to deal with. What a wonderful plaque you made. I wish I had your talent of design.

A simple trick I use, I wipe the nozzle with my finger nail after each and every use. Doing this prevents it from building up and clogging. If my finger gets too sticky, I just wipe it off with a shop towel sprayed with mineral spirits. If you can’t get mineral spirits, use paint thinner. Wiping the nozzle with the wet shop towel will work too.