dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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It is very nice work Les!
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Glad it worked for you Bobby! I wish there was a way to make a post a sticky so I could direct folks to it with having to find it and bump it.
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Very nice work! What thickness wood did you use? What blades did you use and did you stack cut?
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Hey Bobby, go over to Works in progress ant Tutorials. I just bummed a post callEd Simple Jig for blade slippage. You will find a simple solution.
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Nice work Edward!
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They both look great Ralph!
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Nice space Brenda. I bet you will outgrow it soon though!
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Very creative Jason, nice work!
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Very ambitious Bill! I think it’s coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing it completed.
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Looks great Dan!
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Any chance you can make the pattern available?
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Sounds like a very interesting project Scott. Looking forward to seeing it progress!
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As a woodworker and crafter, I always prefer wood over metal. If I were selling these, I would even consider turning the pegs myself!
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What a wonderful gift for your anniversary! Congratulations and well done!
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Fantastic play set Ron! You always do such great work! Are these for sale or for gifts?
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Well Rick, I don’t see anything!
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Like Karl noted, it looks like the problem is tear out from the drill bit. As the drill bit exits the wood, it is breaking the grain on the bottom of the board.Three things to prevent or minimize this. First, make sure you use a sharp bit, second, you must use a backer board. The backer board supports the grain in the blank so it doesn’t splinter as the drill bit breaks through. Third, you must match the drill speed to the type of drill bit you are using. There are all kinds of speed charts available on line. Wood Magazine has a great one available online.
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Great idea Don!
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Nice!
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I do a lot of resawing but not on my band saw. My band saw is a crappy Sears tilting head. I have never been able to set it up properly for resawing even with a good resaw blade. So.... I resaw on my table saw. I use a thin kerf ripping blade. Starting with the blade height about 1”, I’ll cut the board on both sides, then raise the blade another inch and cut both sides again until it is cut all the way through. It is a very dangerous task, but with feather boards and push sticks, it works for me. Unfortunately, I can only resaw 6” because the blade will only rise 3” above the table. If I need wider boards, I’ll either glue up thinner boards to make up the width I need or, I’ll resaw a wider board, cutting from both sides on the table saw. That will leave an island of wood down the length of the board. Then using a Japanese pull saw, I’ll rip the board to separate to two halves. Then plane the boards to final thickness on my planer. I would love to get a good band saw That can resaw, but that may never come.
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Hey Robert, I usually have stock thick enough. It’s perfectly fine to glue up two 3/4” boards then plane or cut to 1 1/4” square. Just make sure you apply the pattern so the glue seam is on the side, not the front of the blank.The problem with using turning stock is it is usually cut on a band saw and aren’t always perfectly square. When cutting 3D items, you always want perfectly square Stock. Also, turning blanks are not kiln dried, so they may be to green. Ochooch Hardwoods sells 1 1/2” Blanks in any species Of wood they sell. They are perfectly square and kiln dried. The perfect solution! I like to use hard and soft woods such as Maple, walnut, mahogany, Cherry, Cedar and Redwood. I have even used Yellowheart, Redheart and Purpleheart although they tend to burn at that thickness.
