dgman
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Everything posted by dgman
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Well Rick, I don’t see anything!
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Like Karl noted, it looks like the problem is tear out from the drill bit. As the drill bit exits the wood, it is breaking the grain on the bottom of the board.Three things to prevent or minimize this. First, make sure you use a sharp bit, second, you must use a backer board. The backer board supports the grain in the blank so it doesn’t splinter as the drill bit breaks through. Third, you must match the drill speed to the type of drill bit you are using. There are all kinds of speed charts available on line. Wood Magazine has a great one available online.
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Great idea Don!
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Nice!
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I do a lot of resawing but not on my band saw. My band saw is a crappy Sears tilting head. I have never been able to set it up properly for resawing even with a good resaw blade. So.... I resaw on my table saw. I use a thin kerf ripping blade. Starting with the blade height about 1”, I’ll cut the board on both sides, then raise the blade another inch and cut both sides again until it is cut all the way through. It is a very dangerous task, but with feather boards and push sticks, it works for me. Unfortunately, I can only resaw 6” because the blade will only rise 3” above the table. If I need wider boards, I’ll either glue up thinner boards to make up the width I need or, I’ll resaw a wider board, cutting from both sides on the table saw. That will leave an island of wood down the length of the board. Then using a Japanese pull saw, I’ll rip the board to separate to two halves. Then plane the boards to final thickness on my planer. I would love to get a good band saw That can resaw, but that may never come.
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Hey Robert, I usually have stock thick enough. It’s perfectly fine to glue up two 3/4” boards then plane or cut to 1 1/4” square. Just make sure you apply the pattern so the glue seam is on the side, not the front of the blank.The problem with using turning stock is it is usually cut on a band saw and aren’t always perfectly square. When cutting 3D items, you always want perfectly square Stock. Also, turning blanks are not kiln dried, so they may be to green. Ochooch Hardwoods sells 1 1/2” Blanks in any species Of wood they sell. They are perfectly square and kiln dried. The perfect solution! I like to use hard and soft woods such as Maple, walnut, mahogany, Cherry, Cedar and Redwood. I have even used Yellowheart, Redheart and Purpleheart although they tend to burn at that thickness.
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Sorry for the loss of your friend Pete. I’m sure he would be proud of his resting place.
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Very nice work Dan
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I could be wrong, but do you mean Advanced Machinery? They are the American distributor of Hegner scroll saws.
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Excellent cutting Charlie! Funny, it doesn’t look backwards!
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Very cool!
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Very nice bowl Bill! Love the wood!
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Great cut Brent!
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Very nice Ralph, you did a great job!
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This is an Al Bagetta plan. The overlay is red Cedar and the backer board is a local grown Oak. The stake was cut from a 4x4 redwood post. I cut two ad I have tomato plants in two different locations, however, my wife commandeered one to give to her girlfriend who is growing tomatoes also.
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It looks great Frank! You have been practicing!
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Great work Gary! Would definitely look wonderful in a hardwood.
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Beautiful work John!
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It’s never to early, nice work Marg!
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That is beautiful Fred! Where does the pattern come from? BTW, are you a race fan? How far away are you from the track? If they hold a championship race this year, it will be in your backyard!
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That’s the way it’s done Steve. I never cut anything thinner than 1/4” without a backer and I’ve been at it for 25 years!
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Ray, L.A. county is just 15 minutes away. I can buy it here in Ventura Co. or, you can order it from Amazon. BTW, isn’t it the Red team that runs Orange Co.?
