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orangeman

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Everything posted by orangeman

  1. Alexey, Nice that you found us here. Go ahead and post the one you did for me on commission for my granddaughter. bb
  2. The only blade I have found that will cut 3/4" purpleheart into puzzles is the Pegas Modified Geometry blade. I usually use the #5 blade. bb
  3. I recently toured a shop that makes furniture. The gentleman uses a 50-50 mixture of pure tung oil/mineral spirits and then adds 20% of Behlen's varnish to the mixture. I haven't tried it yet but intend to do so. bb
  4. Looks good Sarge! Maybe you can help me. I get requests for name puzzles all the time. The font you use would be perfect for these puzzles. Is there a computer program out there that would merge the letters closer together so they were actually touching? That would make it a lot easier to design the puzzle. BTW, you mentioned what the font was some time ago but I forgot and didn't write it down. Thanks, bb
  5. I have an extra DeWalt 788 for sale in the Atlanta area. Used less than 10 hours. About a month left on the warranty. Saw only - no stand. $300. bb
  6. This is no doubt a stupid question. So I purchase a CD of fonts or download a font. What is the next step? How do I get it into my word processor? clueless in GA
  7. I haven't tried this but heard about it from a fellow woodworker. 50/50 tung oil/mineral spirits; then add 20% Behlen varnish. bb
  8. For 3/4" woods of all types (cherry, walnut, maple, etc.) I ONLY use PEGAS Modified Geometry blades: #1 - #7. I have found them superior to Flying Dutchman blades. For puzzles from 1/4" Baltic Birch I will use the Flying Dutchman puzzle blade. I haven't tried Olsen blades yet. bb
  9. Try Constantine's; large assortment of veneers. http://www.constantines.com/ bb
  10. Bill, I'm not familiar with the concept of a starting pin. I'll have to look at that further. Also, none of my bits have bearings - need to check that out as well. thanks for your response. bb
  11. I have a question on a router. I have a router table and have used it occasionally. How would I do a round over on an oval piece of 3/4" thick maple? The oval is 6" x 3.5" Up until now I have gone to Hobby lobby and bought the ovals already rounded. bb
  12. Maybe if you pedaled 10 strokes forward and 6 strokes backward you wouldn't need reverse tooth blades? bb
  13. what is it? looks like a combination of a tractor, bicycle, and Wright Bros. airplane. bb
  14. Very nice. Can you tell me what font you used for HOME and ROXY. That font wold be perfect for name puzzles. thanks. bb
  15. Ralph, Wowee. You were an FAO! Even more jealous! bb
  16. Nice job on the Fire Engine! Engine 11: 5885 Live Oak Pkwy, Norcross, GA 30093. I love fire engines. Always wanted to drive one but that will never happen unless i can find one like they have tanks, and CAT machinery somewhere to drive around. Years ago we took a tour of San Francisco on a fire engine. A couple bought the fire engine and the firehouse. They had been in the entertainment business prior. They sang throughout much of the tour with lights and siren. Fun trip. Again, good job on the fire engine Ralph! Are you getting any comments on your other fire engine? bb
  17. DW, Yes, I could have found an outline of a triggerfish free of copyright but the image I found lent itself perfectly to a puzzle with only slight modification. And I was willing to pay the nominal fee of $10 to use the artists design.
  18. I designed this puzzle last week after seeing a clip art image of a trigger-fish when I was surfing for something else. I bought the rights to the image for $10 which gives me a commercial license to make and sell this puzzle. The first one I made was a little different as the fish was even with the oval. It was hard to get out of the frame; so I planed off the oval part so the fish is about 1/8" higher than the oval. I used Iroko wood for the puzzle and it is a tray type puzzle with 1/8" baltic birch glued to the bottom. I stained the frame with a walnut stain to give some contrast and coated with lacquer. The fish is natural wood with one coat of Watco Danish Oil. I contacted the folks I bought the image from and asked if I could submit my puzzle to a magazine for publication. The answer was NO WAY. The artist retains the copyright! If this item sells at the next craft show I will probably try doing other kinds of fish along these lines and maybe even larger ones. I was thinking of a starting price of $20. It is a triggerfish or humuhumunukunukuapua’a; Hawaii's state fish.
  19. How about a simple puzzle? Maybe from Judy Peterson's book "ANIMALS". I have been working on a lecture myself and have put together a list of tips. I posted it somewhere on this forum several months ago. Maybe Travis started the thread - I don't know. Anyway, others added to it and it is a valuable source of info for a class.
  20. I like that a lot. Do you have a pig version? bb
  21. I was afraid of that. They are all puzzimals. They just don't sell for me. bb
  22. I'm confused. Where are the patterns? Any puzzles? bb
  23. That's very nice. Impressive! Fighter jets use the moibus strip concept to sneak up and attack those that follow. Cool if you could cut fighter jet figurals into the ribbon. bb
  24. I'm using the Aluminum accordion flex stuff to connect from my metal Oneida duct work to my scroll saw. I think it is normally used for dryer vents. I'm using 5" and 3" diameter flex. 5" Below the table and 3" above the table near the blade. I can see the large particles being sucked up into the 3" diameter flex. And if you can see the large particles being sucked up then I know the smaller particles are going there too. Principles of particle dynamics and fluid flow. I used to do stack testing on power plants etc and we had to be isokinetic all the time to insure accuracy. If our testing device sucked in too much volume we would get more fine particles vs large particles.
  25. Randy, 10 years ago I was attempting to design a pvc central collection system and gave up! I needed Y's, reducers, T's, elbows, etc, etc! And since I didn't know much about fluid flow I was perplexed on when to reduce the pipe diameter. I gave up! Called my woodworker cousin for help and he steered me to Oneida in Syracuse, NY. VERY helpful. They designed the pipe collection system with proper sized reducers etc. Gave me a quote on the metal pipe system and a cyclone/cartridge filter system. I bought it, installed it, and glad I did after 10 years. They make their own fittings. For example I have a reducing Y that goes from a 6" dia to 5" & 4". other configurations as well that you will just not find in pvc. Back then there was a charge for designing the collection system but it was refunded if you bought the system from them. A word of caution. You should pay particular attention to grounding with copper wires. Some will poo-poo this as not necessary but believe me it is. I just toured a wood shop last week. The gentleman makes early American furniture and he has a self designed pvc collection system. He said he had to go back and install grounding because he was getting 6" arcs of static electricity! Don't know exactly how he did it but evidently he has copper wires inside the pvc pipes now. A further note: static electricity is the #1 safety consideration in petroleum refineries, chemical plants, and grain elevators. More explosions are caused by static electricity than any other factor. Here is link to Oneida: http://www.oneida-air.com/ Good luck. and be safe. bb
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