orangeman
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Everything posted by orangeman
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Cutting 3/4" off a blade would not work on my current DeWalt 788. There is only 1/8" of blade above and below the blade clamps. I've been using DeWalt 788s for 10 years now and this is the smallest clearance I have ever seen.
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Thanks dgman!!!! I am so sick and tired of hearing about FD blades I could puke. Except for their puzzle blade which I use on 1/4" Baltic Birch. There are superior blades for cutting puzzles from 3/4" hardwoods, namely the Pegas Modified Geometry blades. I had an RBI Hawk, before Bushton, and had to send it back because of excessive vibration which they could not solve. Maybe the new Hawk's are better but I will never buy another saw and have it shipped. Also bought a HEgner that way and I think it got whacked in shipping and it is most difficult to tune to get the 90 degrees absolutely required for puzzles. And I agree with you on the quality deterioration on the DeWalt 788's! That was why I was asking about the Excalibur for my next saw. When I am ready to buy the Ex, I will go to Woodcraft with patterns, wood, and blades in hand and give it a whirl. Thanks again for your response.
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I would like opinions on whether the Excalibur-21 would be a good choice for cutting puzzles from 3/4" hardwoods. I need an accurate 90 degree angle between blade and table and a lot of blade tension so the blade doesn't bend when cutting the puzzle keys. Input would be appreciated. Thanks.
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I like the name puzzle immensely!! Looks great. What font did you use? What is the idea behind the 50% shellac treatment prior to applying the food coloring?
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I've exercised the $259 rebuild option several times, mostly with success. However I have found the saw only lasts me another 2 years before it has to go in again, usually for a different problem. The last time however was a different situation. The saw came back worse than when it went in. Discovered that an inexperienced tech had worked on it. So they gave me a brand new saw for the $259! BUT that saw turned out to be defective! I will try a different brand next time I need to buy a saw. Probably an Ex since Woodcraft sells them locally.
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I see many accolades for FD blades BUT seldom do the writer's say what they are cutting! The devil is in the details. Betcha no one can cut a 3/4" puzzle from Purple Heart with an FD blade!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I used to use FD blades exclusively but I believe the blade quality has deteriorated in recent years. Whereas I was able to cut wooden puzzles from very hard woods (cherry, walnut, padauk, etc} with the FD#5 and FD#5ultra, the blades will not do the job today. So I switched to Pegas Modified Geometry blades and have been extremely pleased!!!!!!!!!! The only FD blade I use today is the FD puzzle blade; it works well on 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood.
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Thanks for posting! I will add "Practice patterns" to my "Best Friends" list!
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Maybe cherry would work better? p.s. we went through Gilroy once. Love garlic!
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Swamped with Christmas ornament orders WHOA!
orangeman replied to amazingkevin's topic in Bragging Rights
Really really nice work! Plus you are a marketing master! -
I'm adding the wood overview! good suggestion. Some folks like a foot switch; I do not because I use a swivel drafting stoool and my feet are on the stool's foot rest which does not lend itself to a foot switch. Plus the saw switch is right up front and on top which is no problem.
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The best blade I have found for cutting puzzles from hard woods is the Pegas Modified Geometry Blades; #3, #5, and #7. Beats the socks out of any other blade I have tried and I have tried most all of them.
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I revised the list based on comments received. Thanks!
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Some good comments. Re #77 3 M spray: I will only use that if I am intending for a permanent bond; otherwise I will use an Elmer's spray glue which is much cheaper. Dust mask: Good comment! I don't use one because I have good dust pick-up above and below the table with a central dust collection system. I can see the larger particles being sucked up and therefore I know the smaller particles will follow due to transport theory. Good comment however for those who do not have a good collection system.
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I am going to do a workshop on scrolling for a local woodworkers club. I thought I would start by stating the scroller's best friends and go on from there. So far the 'best friends' list includes the following: 1. small engineer's square for getting the 90 degree angle which is critical for puzzles 2. packaging tape for blade lubrication. 3. paste wax for the table 4. band aids for those inevitable nicks on the fingers. 5. Magnifying light. 6. Good quality blades 7. Dust mask or central vac system with good pick-up. 8. Adjustable height chair with back support (drafting stool) 9. Subscription to "ScrollSaw Workshop and crafts" 10 3M sanding wheels (for use with drill, drill press, or lathe) 11 3M "77" adhesive spray for permanent bond or Elmer's spray adhesive for temporary bond. 12 Overview of wood types Any other suggestions?
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Yes, poplar is a problem with grain raising. It is also tends to break easily because it is so soft. Try 3/4" soft maple next time. I use food coloring for all my puzzles and was amazed at th brillance. Check out my website; all the colored puzzles were made with food coloring and then coated with lacquer.
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Ike, Where did you see the pattern? They are my original designs that I came up with in the last couple days.
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I wouldn't expect that Harbor Freight included top of the line blades with your saw. There is a wealth of information at this link: http://www.mikesworkshop.com/DaveG.htm Personally I use Pegas blades for my hardwood puzzles and Flying Dutchman puzzle blades for my Christmas cards made from 1/4" Baltic Birch.
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I bought my dust collection system from Oneida, http://www.oneida-air.com/ I gave them a layout of the equipment in the shop and they designed the proper size duct work and fittings. I purchased a cyclone/cartridge filter and the duct work and fittings from them. Very happy with their service!
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Travis, Can we get a separate "PUZZLE" category/topic?
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What type of lighting do you use?
orangeman replied to kywoodmaster's topic in General Scroll Sawing
My shop was outfitted with 4' flourescent fixtures 10 years ago. Now the ballasts are starting to fail. I recently purchased 4' LED lights from Costco @$40 each. They are the plug in type so I am waiting for an electrician to come and hard wire install them. I'd do it my self but I'm not too steady on a ladder anymore. Here is the product description: http://reviews.costco.com/2070/100155638/feit-electric-company-feit-electric-4-led-shop-light-2-pack-reviews/reviews.htm -
Thanks everyone for your nice comments. No, they will not fit together as I have to take liberties with some of the state outlines and I aim for a size that will contain 16-20 animals. If I ever do a show in Chattanooga I will definetly have to make a TN Wildlife Puzzle. There are multiple solutions but I provide a cheat sheet with one solution. Prices range from $44 to $54 and they are good sellers at shows.
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This weekend I finished the last 3 puzzles in my state wildlife series. I now have GA, AL, FL, NC, SC, MS, LA, and TX. We do shows in the Southeastern States but get many requests for TX. Our next show is the Peter Anderson Festival in Ocean Springs, MS, Nov 7 & 8 and I had to make a LA puzzle because LA is so close.
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Mabel, For all my hardwood puzzles I use Min Wax Tung Oil Finish. Other puzzlers use Danish Oil. I like the Tung Oil finish because it is a little thicker and also dries faster. I'm thinking you could use any oil for wood. Orange Oil comes to mind. For the maple puzzles that I color with food colors I will use a lacquer from Sherwin Williams which I buy by the gallon. For touch up work I will then use a rattle can lacquer from Ace Hardware. Hope this helps.
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I like those a lot. Nice job. Do you use a template for the lettering or is it all freehand?
