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Dave Monk

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Everything posted by Dave Monk

  1. Looks great! Glad to see you are back at it.
  2. I have a Pegas and love it. I really like the indexing pin that is set at 90 degrees. I can set it at an angle and put if back at a perfect 90 in a second.
  3. Haven't tried any more yet. I need to order more. Just debating which type to buy.
  4. Roberta, Are you using the Nylon or the Rayon?
  5. Do you have a surface planer or belt spindle sander? I use those tools a lot.
  6. I use use hot glue on the edges. I think some use blue tape.
  7. Love your puzzle. Did you design it?
  8. Thanks for you flattering words Dick. Time sure does fly by. Just about three years now since I became addicted. I owe all of you guys for all the help.
  9. Any time I cut 1/8" or 1/4" I always stack cut at least 2.
  10. Awesome job Dick! Are you using all spray paint? Isn't if hard to glue the black piece on as thin as it is?
  11. I have never tried the latex type. As long as I can get the original I will stay with it. I don't think mineral spirits will work but I have heard acetone will work but I have never tried it.
  12. I always keep a can of solvent. When it gets a bit stiff I just add a bit. As long as I keep the lid tight it will last forever. The solvent is a bit harder to find. Luckily my local lumber supplier carries it. Some of the colors don't match perfectly mainly because every piece of wood is a different color. I have the hardest time with a real light maple. I keep red oak, maple, alder, walnut, and natural. A lot of times I use alder fill to fill oak.
  13. That is gorgeous Jim! You are the one that originally inspired me to do inlays. I have a ways to go to catch up.........that's for sure.
  14. I have to push it to go below the surface. When I put on the glue it is pretty well flush. That is when everything is working as it should. I do not mix wood glue and saw dust for filler. I use the solvent base Famowood. It comes in different colors to match my wood species. For me it is easier than making it.
  15. Doesn't look like it comes with a fence. If I buy a band saw I want to be able to resaw.
  16. It is a technique called double bevel inlay. You can find a video I did in the tutorial section on page 2. Jim Flynn (who is an expert at it) also has a tutorial there.
  17. Small drill bit and a bit of filler works wonders.
  18. Jim, When I do a test I like my piece to go in 1/16" to far. I use quite a bit of glue all around the piece. That will pretty well take up the slack. There are times when I change my blade and my pieces don't fit quite as well. My guess is that the kerf is just a bit different.
  19. Jim, I use 3/8" for both pieces. If I go much thicker my results don't come out near as good. I used a #63 drill bit, #3 Pegas MGT blade, and set my saw at 1.7 degrees. I check the fit of my pieces as I go and if they start to feel a bit too tight I will change my blade. I think I went through about three blades on that one. I use a lot of soft maple and walnut together which makes easy cutting.
  20. Thanks for the kind comment. The round box came from SSWC issue number 59, page 36. I changed it to suite me.
  21. This is my first attempt at flocking. As mentioned in another thread I was not very happy with the outcome. The first time I did it my coverage was not great. I went ahead and put more coat of glue over the existing flocking on the bottom. I did a lot of research and no one recommended doing this but I am always willing to try something once. The results weren't great. The coverage is good but ended up with small bumps. I won't try that again. Octoolguy inspired me to do the round box. He made one and posted it probably about a month ago. I did change it up a bit.
  22. I am using a wine with the same color glue.
  23. Jim, It is a fairly thick oil base glue. Are you thinning the paint? The only thing I would worry about is that I don't know if the paint would stick to lacquer.
  24. Don, I am sealing first.
  25. This one is not mine but notice the inside.
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