munzieb

Paul, If you didn't say it, I wouldn't know it. Looks great to me. I do alot of patterns with black backers and my wife always gives me her brush on black acrylic paint. It drys in no time and always comes out great. Give it a try.

Me too. I posted some pictures from the Klingspor show a few years ago that included pictures of Steve Good. I have not had any luck finding them. I also referenced previous postings on various projects I did in the past and can't find them either.

Wife says she wants another Mantel Clock with contrasting colors. I had enough working with oak (too brittle) I had some bubinga and poplar and started cutting. Will be gifting some clocks for Christmas.

It looks like it was a great show. Impressive building too. Amazing wood working. For all the times I drove out to Islip and Farmingdale I should made some time to visit the museum.

Fish, great job on the peacock panel. It is a lot of work!. I did the same a few years back and actually cut 8 panels and made into night lamps. I used amber lexan as an inside backer. The original pattern was done by Tiffany and are 2 curved doors in The Chicago Palmer House Hotel. It may be a challenge but they made wonder lamps. Message me if you want more details.

Martin, you have been scrolling the shadows. It's about time you brought out your fine work to the sunshine and let the rest of the folks on SSV enjoy. Welcome, Bernd

Thank you John. This was not really that hard. The lower fret work were 3 individual pieces and the top were 2 pieces. The section holding the clock face is one piece but it is easier to hold when it's larger. All the pieces are key and slot assembly. There are a lot of pieces to cut but most are straight cuts. It does take a little to figure out how it all goes together since there is no exploded view for the assembly. I spend about 4 days, a few hours each day to complete it with finishing. Because I modified the original on the top and tonges, It did take a little longer. It cost me about $50 for material and finish.

I was surprised how quickly he responded once I ordered the pattern.

Thanks Paul. For smaller projects I'll use regular paper but for larger projects that I take to the copy store, I'll use card stock. I'll have them print up 3 sets incase I want to make more or if I screw things up. Their machines print better on it and it's not as floppy as regular paper. I use mostly skip tooth blades and it also tends to force the dust down.

Thanks, the fret work is not overly complicated. It's better to do all the inside cuts and then cut the outsides so you are working with larger pieces so they are easier to hold. It's more complicated to layout all the pieces on the wood to get the maximum usage out of the wood with minimum waste.

My wife said we need a mantel clock and found one on Pedro's Web site finescrollsaw.com. Contacted him and he send me a PDF file after I purchased. It all went very smoothly. Took it to my local UPS store and were able to print it on card stock using A6 paper format dimensions. 12" x 17" I wanted to do it in Bubinga but my wife wanted a lighter color, so I went with oak. I used 3.5 pieces of 5.5 x 48" 1/4" oak. I did modify the top from the original pattern so that the top was narrower than the piece below it. I also added a 1/8" shim between to bottom and next piece up. I also rounded the extention pieces on the base plate. Finish in Gloss Lacquer.

It looks like you have arrived but now the journey begins. I see mountains of saw dust in your future!

It's possible that the rheostat/controller may be dirty or some of the windings internally may be worn. There are postings "rheostat" that may help.

Kevin, you're back and running at full speed!

Great looking project! If you added a motor, you may help people to cool down too!

Bingo! Bingo!

Thanks Todd, I limited my time in the shop to AM because of the heat. I'm a glutton for punishment and we are heading to HHI for some sand and sea food and more humidity. When I'm back, I'll contact you about swapping more SS stories over some good food.

Hi Todd, I used to have this happen to me until I started using blue tape on my cuts outs. Before removing the whole pattern I would pull off the blue tape first and then all of the dark pattern cut off pieces would either drop off or lift off. What was left, I would push out with an exacto knife, then I would remove the rest of pattern using Goof Off. It drys off clean. Not sure how deep the bleeding is but when it has happened, I usually had to sand it out. When I do my paint-in method for tires and the like, if I go outside the lines, I use a razor blade to scrape the over run paint (acrylic)Hope that helps.

Thanks Kevin, It's been a long while since I did some serious wrench bending. Still have my aircraft tools but I have more wood tools now. I gave up the smell of jet fuel for the smell of Padauk, Bubinga and Baltic Birch.

Yikes! that is a stunning project. There looks to be some serious wood in there and very $$$.

I was wandering through Pinterest and came across and picture of the Dassault Falcon 900DX. In an earlier life, I had been an aircraft mechanic and had worked on some of the previous versions of this aircraft. The twin engine Falcon 20 came out in 1965 and was initially marketed by Pan AM. This was one of the first corporate jets for major companies like Pepsi and Bristol Myers. When the economy turned down in the early '70's , many were sold. The fledgeling Fed Ex was being started up by Fred Smith and he purchased several and had them modified for a large cargo door. They eventually had 33 aircraft but had to migrate to larger aircraft as the business grew. The economy started to turn around in the mid 70's and Dassault started building larger aircraft like the F50, F200, F2000 and the F900 series to satisify the demand for more fuel efficent range, more seating and updated avionics. The F900DX was in production for '04 to '11 and is still sought after as reliable large mid size corporate jet. The plaque is 11 x 14" on BBPW with a shellac/lacquer finish. Hardest part was probably the landing gear because of all the small cuts and I used the "paint-in" method on the engine cowlings and tires. The aircraft looks to be in the approach mode with flaps down and the DLE (Droop Leading Edges) down to slow the aircraft down for landing.

Another master work! Colors are amazing!

Thanks Kevin. I hope you are getting better.

Thanks Frank, you're right, they are a challenge and they are double cut. I've had alot of practice with all the car grills I have done. It's important to go SLOW!

My wife's niece from Germany visited us last month. She is crazy for everything Lufthansa. She knows many of the crews and has even been written up in their in-flight magazine. She is a Dr. of research oncology but would give it all up to fly for them. She has her private licence. Problem is she is too short and can't reach the pedals on the airliners. I told her I would do a Lufthansa plane for her. She always loved the Junkers JU-52. This aircraft came out in 1932, shortly before the DC-3 and was Lufthansa's first airliner. It looks similar to the Ford Tri-motor and has the same corrigated skin. Several aircraft are still flying and there are some Youtube videos of one based in Switzerland. The cutting was a challenge because so much of the aircraft is painted black and all the straight lines of the corrigation and I also elimated the doors underneath. They close up in flight. I had to add some extra bridges to keep it all together.