BadBob

Are you using one of these tools for setting the angle for making bowls etc?

I have a collection of squares. A few years ago, I decided to test all my squares and eliminate anything out of square. I got a big surprise. A Stanley over 40 years old and bought out of a clearance bin at a lumber store was dead on. A 12-inch plastic rafter square currently selling for $4.99 at Harbor Freight was dead on. A 12-inch combination square, I got free in one of those deals where you qualify for a gift when placing an order was dead on. An adjustable try square I got free when placing an order was dead on at 90 degrees, and as far as I could determine, it was correct for all the preset angles. A cheap 12-inch framing square that was the first square I ever purchased more than 40 years ago was dead on, and considering how low my income was then, I would be shocked if I paid $5 for it. None of my most expensive squares was square. I tested them by using a Starrett straight edge and a granite plate.

That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

1-3/8 inch is what the pattern says, but I could adjust to fit.

Where can I buy small round picture frames to insert in a hole?

Looking forward to your review.

That is a very good question. I bought mine because I was having issues with my stock EX21 clamps. I didn't do a lot of research. Of course, they fixed my problem, but the difference was amazing. If you are happy with what you have, keep them. If you are having a problem and need to replace them, buy the Pegas clamps. I don't think you can find a non-Chinese factory replacement for the EX21 clamps.

I keep spares on hand.

When I bought mine, you could not get the brushes separate.

I have the Glue Bots, and I primarily used the Baby Bot. I stopped using it because the tip would clog quickly, and the cap broke. Fast Cap replaced the cap to their credit and sent me a bag of replacement parts. Today I use Mainstays 12 Ounce Plastic Squeeze Dispense Bottle from WalMart for my glue dispenser. I make toys and apply tiny amounts of glue on irregularly shaped parts. These are the best tools I have found for this. Dried glue peels off easily should I forget to clean them. The kit is available from many sources. I got mine here. I have used the pinking shear but found it spread far too much glue for my purposes. A piece of threaded rod works great, but you need to clean it quickly. I have used silicon basting brushes. They work well when spreading large amounts of glue. I use a Paint Tray Palette a lot for gluing. Dried glue pops right off and it works gret for paint too.

This is in my Pegas Manual.

My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and could not find any place where it talked about adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring. This is the first saw I have ever had that has the guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was rum at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside. While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I could not get to without removing the table, I reinstalled the top and checked all of the alignments. I did my first cut. I cut some kittens from a 3/4-inch piece of oak. It works great. There is minimal vibration at high speed, and the cuts are smooth. The Grizzly mobile base that came with the saw will have to go. It adds about 10 inches to the width and gets in the way. One of the wheels is where I want my foot switch to go. Only two wheels are casters, making it more challenging to maneuver in tight spaces. In short, the mobile base takes up to much room. I'm thrilled with the new Pegas Scroll Saw.

I bought this one owner never used Pegas Scroll saw Friday. The seller said he bought it for his wife to use, and she never got around to it. It cost me $700 and a 12-hour drive to get it. Patience paid off. My old RBI is moving out.

I keep posting the video when the subject comes up because I would not be surprised if more store-bought paste waxes disappeared.

There are a lot of scroll-saw groups on face book. The format is terrible, and there are way too many members of all who post the same thing in all groups—lots of repetition and poor or no moderation. There are four scrollsaw forums I visit at least weekly. In three of those I only look at new posts to see if anything is interesting. There is very little. Scrollsaw Workshop Community should shut down. Very little traffic is there, and Steve doesn't monitor the forum. Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts Message Board is better, but there is very little activity. I do participate there occasionally. I don't think anyone from the publisher actually monitors the board. If it went away, I would not miss it. The Scrollers Cafe seems to mostly have threads about what members are having for breakfast. There is very little other activity. I get an email once a week with a list of all the new topics. Scroll Saw Village is home. There is something new and interesting here every day. I regularly send people here.

I cut two of these years ago on my first scroll saw. If I remember correctly, they are the only flowers I have ever cut. It is solid wood, not plywood.

I should have known you would have thought of that.

I will be using Johnson's Paste Wax for a long time. When I learned they had discontinued it. I bought every can I could find locally. That still had the old price.

"Johnson’s Paste Wax was discontinued at the end of 2021 due to its suspected carcinogenic properties." I suspect this is the Stoddard solvent used in making the wax. You can make paste wax.

I prefer the Roman numerals for most clocks. I don't make many.

Why not order the clocks without the battery?

I run my saw as fast as it will go except when I cut thin stock such as 1/4-inch plywood. This may be because I used as single speed saw for years and it is what I am used to. I would use a finer blade with the single-speed saw if the cut was too aggressive.

I used hole saws for a long time and have a collection of every size they make. Cutting them with the scroll saw gives much better results and lets me use small bits of wood I would never try cutting with a hole saw. I first used the scroll saw because I was making wheels from some wood that was tearing badly, and I had to cut them oversized and sand them to the size I needed to get smooth edges. I tried cutting them with my scroll saw and was pleased with the result. Another benefit to using a scroll saw to cut wheels is that I can make any size wheel I want, and there is no need for a collection of hole saws.

I have made lots of wheels. My preferred method is to drill the center holes first, cut them out free hand with the scroll saw, and sand them with a belt sander and a jig. The jig is a dowel in a piece of wood clamped an appropriate distance from the sanding belt. It is fast and easy, and I can produce a hundred perfectly round and sanded smooth wheels. The jig is so simple that I never keep them. I have made wheels from squares using a coarse 60-grit sanding belt. This works great, but if you think scroll saws make a lot of dust, you should try this.

It happens to me and usually goes underneath something. I used to lose small pieces while using my sanding mop. Two things helped that a lot. A tall fence on the back of the drill press stops 98% of them, and a net over the end of my dust collection to keep them from entering the shop vac.