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BadBob

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Everything posted by BadBob

  1. BadBob
    I've seen better looking plywood at Home Depot and Lowes.
  2. BadBob
    I use paint thinner. It isn't milky and it is a lot cheaper although it does smell a bit stronger.
  3. BadBob
    I tried the soap and water. No joy. It did reduce the odor to near zero, but it came back after 24 hours. The odor was not as strong, but it is still there. I don't like applying a top coat over any oil finish. So no more Watco Danish Oil for me. I tried it because many had posted here that they use it, and I wanted to give it a try. I tried boiled linseed oil a few years ago with much the same result. It took weeks for the odor to dissipate.
  4. BadBob
    I found posts that said it would take that long, but I could never find the original source. I should dig out my finishing books and see if it talks about this.
  5. BadBob
    Here is what Rust-Oleum Product Support said: I am going to try this. I post the results.
  6. BadBob
    I have an open support ticket on this subject with Rust-Oleum Product Support. They said "generally goes completely away in a few weeks." I was asked several questions about what I was doing and told me they would look further into the issue. A few weeks is way to long for my purposes.
  7. BadBob
    The can I have has stoddard solvent in it. I used stoddard a lot in the military it is slow to evaporate compared to other solvents. It has been a long time, but I think this is what I am smelling. Stoddard is some nasty stuff. I think this can is going to hazardous waste disposal on my next trip.
  8. BadBob
    I use lots of shellac. Mostly amber and all of it is Zinsser brush in the can from big box stores. The shellac they sell as clear is not clear. It is pale amber. According to the manufacturer, the only shellac they have that is dewaxed is the sanding sealer. The sanding sealer is as clear as it gets, and it isn't clear. There is no such thing as clear shellac, as far as I can see. Yes, I know they label it as clear, but it isn't.
  9. BadBob
    The piece is poplar. I brushed it on and wiped it off almost immediately. No dipping. I have some sanding sealer that is almost completely clear. I think I am going to try coating it with that.
  10. BadBob
    Doesn't the shellac change the color?
  11. BadBob
    I make toys and puzzles mostly. I cut a puzzle that I wanted to have a contrasting color on a couple of the pieces. I used WATCO Danish Oil for one of the colors. It has been two weeks, and it still smells. How long does it take for WATCO Danish Oil to cure completely? Checked their website, but no joy. They say ready to use in 8-10 hours. Ready to use is not cured. If I can smell it is still outgassing.
  12. BadBob
    Would these work? https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-Universal-Fence-Clamp-4-Pack/dp/B09Q4LP3FC/ They are called L-Hooks. You can get the from McMaster-Carr although may be to large. https://www.mcmaster.com/l-hooks/ Google search for "L-Hook" https://www.google.com/search?q=L-hook
  13. BadBob
    I use a dowel is inserted into an existing hole in the body to provide a handle and stand. The dowel must be a tight fit. The dowels work well until the toy is heavy. I sometimes use long nose locking pliers to hold the dowel. For a larger toy, I glue a dowel into a hole in the bottom of the toy at the center of gravity to use as a handle. I cut the dowel with a flush-cut saw when the finish has cured. The advantage of this method is that I can paint batches of toys in a small space.
  14. BadBob
    The right airbrush will work well for ornaments. I use Badger Anthem 155, and Patriot 105 airbrushes to spray everything from shellac to acrylic house paint.
  15. BadBob
    Try Pirate Ship. I don't know if they will work with that large a package but they are a lot cheaper.
  16. BadBob
    I picked up one of these years ago for a couple of dollars on clearence. They are quite handy when building with 2x4s. Google "Universal Square".
  17. BadBob
    A baby dinosaur.
  18. BadBob
    That is an expensive piece of plastic.
  19. BadBob
    I would keep both. I have two and would have three if I had space for the third saw.
  20. BadBob
    I use two pieces of wood and some spring clamps for this. I have tried every method, but I prefer the spring clamps because I never need to readjust them. Other clamps will loosen as you cut. I like the plastic/nylon clamps because they will not damage my blade if I cut into the clamp accidentally.
  21. BadBob
    All of my bits but one are Freud Precision Shear bits. The one is Steelex D1019 2-3/8" I purchased for the clock. I could not find a 2-3/8" Freud bit. I don't think they make one that size. The largest Freud I could find was 2-1/8. The Steelex worked, but I was not happy with the hole it cut. Next time I will buy clock movements to fit the bit I have or can get. I had a set of the cheap Forstner bits for years and barely used them until I started making toys. I soon discovered that they drilled ragged holes. I did a test where I purchased one of each brand I could find and bored holes in the worst piece of softwood I could find a "whitewood" 2x4 from home depot. It was not a contest. None of the tested bits came close to the Freud Precision bits. I did not test Fisch forstner bits because, at the time, I could not buy them in the US. I suspect the Fisch bits would work very well.
  22. BadBob
    Do you drill the hole for the clock movement or cut it with your scroll saw? This year, I made my first clocks for Christmas gifts and drilled the hole as prescribed by the instructions using a Forstner bit. After that experience, I think I will cut them next time.
  23. BadBob
    I have some toys in my shop that will not sell for a long time, then one day someone buys four of them. The owls are cute.
  24. BadBob
    I like to use contrasting wood when I can. The nacelles and fuselage are poplar, believe it or not. The dark wood on the horizontal stabilizer is walnut. The wings and vertical stabilizers are ipe. The wheels are birch. I have a friend that sends me dark wood cutoffs from his larger projects that he can't use.
  25. BadBob
    I make these reindeer I found in an old magazine. I didn't do much to them and I have sold two sets so far. I had one person that wanted the larger ones. Larger than I could cut on a scroll saw. After several attempts at it with a bandsaw equipped with a carter guide and the smallest blade I could find I gave up. I could cut out the reindeer, but the antlers kept breaking. I could probably have cut them from some better hardwood. I spoke to the customer about pricing and she was not willing to pay enough for me to cover wood cost. I wasn't willing to spend $40 on an experiment that I could not sell. The experience got me to lusting after the Pegas scrolling band saw. I could not find one anywhere in stock or I would have bought it. I love photography as well. My Cannon T7i just recently rolled the counter over. That's more than 10,000 photos. Sitting on my hard drive right now are more than 47,000 photos.
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