Badgerboy

Thanks Kevin!

I am having challenges with the big black parallelism adjustment knob on my Pegas moving after an hour or so of cutting. The table is flat and level and it passes the standing nickel test for vibration. After I have verified and set upper arm parallelism lock in a blade and start cutting I eventually notice the knob has moved after an hour or so. Parallelism is gone and I need to go back through the process. Which nut or bolt needs to be retightened to eliminate this problem? Thanks for the help

Hey Barb, I love the “wine down” piece, do you recall where you got that pattern?

That’s some dang good painting Paul!

Well no satisfaction on removing this blight. I have rinsed the various solvents away and let it dry. I took to some light sanding yesterday and made no improvement..At this point I am guessing this may be a part of the BB glue up as I can’t make any progress in its removal. I guess this will remain one of those great mysteries and I will have to recut. Thank you to all for the various suggestions.

Thanks Bernd, I hope all is well in this heat.

I will try some acetone and then carb cleaner. I hope one of those works as I don’t want to have to cut that script again, it was a slow process using a mgt #3 and going back over a few sections with a #0 spiral blade. Thank you for all the suggestions.

My only guess is that the MS caused some of the toner to bleed thru. Otherwise I have no idea.

My daughter gave a list of wedding projects to cut in the shop for her impending nuptials. One was this little sign. After cutting the script and peeling the pattern I was disappointed to find that apparently some of the toner ink bled into the BB ply when I sprayed mineral spirits on to remove the pattern. I have never had the happen before and I know the mark was not there before applying the pattern. I have tried a slurry of baking soda and just plain bleach but no luck. Does anyone have some wisdom to share on how to remove this black streak above the “n”?

Denny Rocks!

Yes, as in the picture above dewaxed shellac will be labeled as such or just look at the contents. Here is an example, these two signs are cut from the same sheet of BB ply, both have the same shellac. I sanded the darker one more and let the stain sit 30 seconds longer otherwise everything else is the same. Grain pops but is not splotchy.

Ray, when I am staining BB, I always apply a coat of WAX FREE or dewaxed shellac then lightly sand with 320 after it is completely dry, tack cloth then stain. It is important to use dewaxed shellac as waxed shellac does not play nice with water based or solvent based final finishes. The amount of sanding you do can be played with is you want a less consistent stain job, play with it and you will figure it out quickly.

Finally! I have been making these signs for a couple of years now but my graphics guy disappeared and I was out of luck. My Inkscape skills are not developed enough to recreate my signature design so I was dead in the water. I took a shot and asked @don in brooklin on if he could help instruct me to recreate the design. I had flat file, single layer pdf files but could not edit the various layers to create a new design. Don not only gave me the help I needed but created a template of the design with the necessary layers so I can easily edit the names and out put a finished pattern for my printer. I CANNOT thank Don enough for his time and expertise. Don you are a huge benefit to this forum and the scrollsaw community!! The top layer is cut from 1/4” bbp and the backer is mdf. I cut these on my Pegas using a #3mgt blade. I edge the sign with copper tape used for computer pcb board repair. The Wade sign is my original and the Roach and Steinberg signs were patterned from Don’s template in inkscape. I glue a burned logo disc on the back to brand it and also to help keep the sign flat when hung on a wall. Interestingly the Roach and Steinberg signs were stained with the same color stain just using a different technique. The Roach sign is for my adopted daughter who gets married on Saturday and the Steinberg sign is for my daughter who gets married in September neither of which would have been made without Don’s skill, talents and wonderful generosity.

Bernd, those corner joints look so perfect, nice woodworking my friend. The finish looks impeccable, did you use a filler of some kind to flatten out the oak?

i am 100% with Bernd. I use the same brand bought at the same woodcraft location. I have had a bottle more than 6 months and still useable. IF you decide to use accelerator you MUST spray in a direction or a bit away from your open CA bottle. The spray mist May contaminate your CA. Good luck.

Thanks for the info, these are all so cool!

Ohh, I really like that! What an awesome idea, well done. Where do you find your designs or do you create them?

Thanks Bernd, the finish drove me crazy. Trying to get the poly to lay flat when brushing across scrolled edges made me insane. It took some sanding between layers to get it right. I just don’t like the results on a piece like this with a rattle can so resort to a brush and time.

Here is another pic where you can better see the scrolled images and painted backer.

RJ, the horse and name are scrolled into the 1/2 lid. The lid is backed with 1/4 mdf cut to size to fit snugly inside the box to align the lid. The mdf backer is painted black for the horse and red for the name before installation, it is hard to see in the picture. Placement of the mdf is tedious to make sue when it slides inside the box the actual top edges are square and aligned with the exterior box walls.

I was asked to make a memory box by my future son-in-law for his mom who recently lost her favorite horse. She wanted a place to store the horse’s bridle. I haven’t made a box in quite awhile so I went with with a simple design using corner splines to add some visual splash. The top is a modified Sue Mey design which I enlarged and added the horse’s name. The box is made from hard maple with walnut splines and finished with 3 coats of poly. I lined the box bottom and cover with felt. Everyone seems happy with the outcome.

Those are awesome. Where can I get Don’s pattern?

Those minute bridges are amazing

This Steve Good pattern was published recently. I made one for my wife and posted it on my instagram, didn’t take long and I had requests for several more. I added a couple of creative touches including the little ball on the cap. The beard is painted then covered with Aileen’s True Snow which works great. I also used it on my snowflake ornaments. Simple fast cut, I actually spend more time painting and assembling. Be blessed.

If you want to learn more: https://www.boone-crockett.org/download-bc-score-charts