FrankEV

My cutting was pretty neat, so it did not require a lot of sanding. Just needed to smooth everything with a fine grit and fix up the tight intersections a little. However, cutting and sanding Padauk creates that fine red dust that gets all over everything. Although it feel dry, it stick to all surfaces like filings on a magnet.

Steve Good recently issued a pattern for a Heart Tray. I had some Maple and Padauk boards left over from the Heart Box I made back last February (https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/45466-my-version-of-dave-monk%E2%80%99s-%E2%80%98box-for-valentines-day%E2%80%99/#comment-486165). I thought the Tray would make a good companion for the Box I gave my Lady. Was going to give it to her on Christmas but she saw and claimed it already. Laminated the Maple and Padauk making the tray walls 1 1/4” high. Stack cut the outside of laminated tray walls along with the 1/8” thick maple bottom first, then after removing the bottom, cut out the interior sections. Fairly easy cutting with Pegas #5 Skip tooth Blade. Lot of hand sanding creating the red dust everywhere. Attached bottom to walls with Superglue and applied multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Used the inside dropouts to trace and cut out the red felt bottom liner which I attached with spray adhesive. PITA to fit the sticky liner in its proper place. Comments and Critiques always welcome

Beautiful, simply beautiful! All 6 grandkids must be Artist, Draft Persons, Engineers or Architects....right ?????? I used pencils and one of those metal erasing shields for many years in my engineering carreer until the pencils were replaced by computers.. Didn't need to use it on a PC screen .

Nice work. Interesting design...looks to be somewhat oriental. What is the wood and finish?

Nobody stated the most important reason to use sawtooth hangers for scroll saw portraits and plaques. They keep the work almost flat against the wall where the wire hanger method tilts the work. Tilting is OK for paintings and such, but for proper viewing of scroll saw portraits and plaques, they should be viewed straight on, vertically flat to the wall, and hung about eye level, to be best enjoyed. Also, I have not found any of my work, even up to 18"x 24 and framed, to be too heavy for just one small drive in saw tooth hanger and the piece hung on the wall with just a small headed 3/4" long brad. And, generally plaques made of cuttings mounted on 1/2" ply or solid wood are not very heavy either and one sawtooth hanger works well. For some of the same reasons, I only cut my portrait work in 1/8" thick material that is mounted on a 1/4" backer for rigidity. I find the visability of the vertically cut edges in work cut in thicker materials is very distracting, especially when viewed from any vantage other than straight on. A quick edit: If I was to make a large heavy cutting (like maybe a wall hanging sculptured piece), my choice for a hanger would be the French Cleat. Keeps work nearly flat to wall, easy to plumb, available in many sizes, and is very strong.

I tested this app on a few different script fonts. It works to some degree but it doesnt take care of loops like often found in letters like "L's" and "k's". In some letters it actually adds more brides than necessary. Great app where it works, but not overly usefull IMHO. I wish some of those talented font designers would develope a series of scrollable script fonts fo us.

I developed this Fairy Night Light pattern from free silhouettes I found on -line. The lamp body is cut from 1/4” solid Cherry x 4 1/2" square. The top and bottom are made from 1/2” solid Cherry x 5 1/2” Square. For this lamp, the overall height of the lamp is only 10 1/4” due to the body panel pattern layout I developed. The cutting was mainly done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades while I used Pegas #1 MGT R blade for the straight cuts around the perimeter. I Stack cut only two panels at one time as the connections from the image to the surrounding frame area are VERY TINY. I was very careful during cutting not to cut through any, but, yes, some got broken in handling. However, we all know superglue is a scrollers best friend. This lamp is the fourth I have made basically using the same construction techniques. I have found I can make all the miters on the Table Saw and have developed clamping methods that provide me with relatively neat joints that I can live with. And, I now have a good grip on the step by step construction process so I don’t get things messed up assembly wise. From conception, my idea was to make this lamp for a young girl, so it had to be “PINK”. I ordered the wood from Ocooch Hardwoods and the Plexi through Amazon a while back, and was just waiting for a reason to make the lamp. Christmas is coming and a gift for my Granddaughter became the reason I was waiting for. My Granddaughter, who is a young adult lady, still loves Fairies. And as we all know, Cherry wood is not actually Pink, so I had to stain it. I used five (5) parts Minwax Natural stain and one (1) part Minwax Barn Red to get a light pink color stain which after application, was immediately wiped off making the wood just “PINK” enough. The 1/8” thick translucent Plexi panels are also Pink and frosted with an application of velum affixed to the interior surface with spray adhesive. The lamp was finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The electrical components are again just a candelabra bulb base mounted on a threaded nipple through the bottom, a pre-made lamp cord that I added a in-line switch to, and a LED Candelelabra equivalent 25W bulb. Edit: Unlit view And BTW, my first Grandson came along when I was only 40. I said I was too young to be called a Grandfather...so just call me "Grumps". It stuck with all my Grandchildren to this day. Figured I needed to sign and date this lamp for her. I’ll post the plans in the New Pattern Announcements. Comments and critiques always welcome

Great job. Very well done. What is the overall finished size?

Very nice job. I have never used Basswood, so these are just my thoughts. Since the Basswood is very white and the grain is not prevalent, I might consider applying a simple neautral stain that will darken (slightly yellow) the overalll blank. you might also consider using a small brush, and using a slightly darker stain, like Pecan or Honey, paint the image to improve its readability, Nothing fancy, just keep the darker stain within the image itself. Now, I'm an avocatre of finishing my panels with a durable protective coating like Lacquer or polyurethane. If by any chance this plaque is to be displayed outside, I would recommend multiple coats of clear gloss poly. As an alternative, no stain, but some handpainting of the Image with Artist Acrylic Paints would bring the image to life on the very light color background. Easy to select colors: Yelow Helmet, blue pants, any color shirt, black boots/belts, brown pole and roap, etc. Then finish with a Clear satin Polycrylic protective coating. Many options. Show us what you do!!!!! I have this image and have been just waiting for the right opportunity to cut it.

The Sleigh Image was a free downloadable zip file that included a SVG file which I was able to manipulate in Inkscape. I sized the image to fit within an oval I created (approximately 11 1/2” x 15 1/2”) that I cut from a piece of 1/2” x 12” x 16” sanded ply. The image was cut from 1/8” thick BB ply. The backer was painted white with Krylon rattle can paint. I used Artist Acrylics to paint the cut panel (originally image was only B&W) and the perimeter vertical edge of the backer. The assembled Plaque was protected with multiple coats of Clear Minwax Polycrylic finish. Just another Xmas decoration that will be stored away 11 months of the year. Comments and critiques welcome.

Very Nice. I know the photos can lie sometimes, but I can't see anything wrong with your painting skills.

Absolutely great work. Wish I had the patience.

Almost every job gets better, but I also throw away a lot more.

I'm working hard on just being able to blend my colors a little. I would probably do well as an Astract Expressionism painter if I just throw the paint at the canvas!

I converted this Tiger image I found on-line into a 12” x 16” Scroll saw pattern. The cut panel is 5/32” Birch solid core ply affixed to a painted black 1/4"thick BB ply backer. Cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 and #1 spiral blades. The cut panel was hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss spray Polycrylic finish. Panthers was a free downloadable SVG file I found on-line. Although it was a SVG file, it required work to resize it into a 12” x 15” scrollable pattern. This pattern has well over 500 small cutouts and although very easy cutting, it was time consuming to complete. I used about 15 Pegas #2/0 spiral blades due to a lot of blade breakage caused by blade kinking, as a result of the many very small blade hole threading’s required. The cut panel is 5/32” Maple solid core ply affixed to a painted black 1/4"thick BB ply backer. This cut panel was also hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints and the assembled panel protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Satin spray Polycrylic finish. Although I have consistently used clear spray lacquer to protect the assembled panels in the past, I’m giving the clear spray Polycrylic a try. Although it looks very wet with a milky blue color when first applied, it dries quickly to a clear hard finish. A very light sanding with 1500 grit paper between coats results in a nice smooth finish. Polycrylic is quite a bit more expensive than Lacquer, but it is more compatible with the Acrylic Artist paints I use. The frames for both are 1 3/4"wide Poplar, primed and painted with Glidden spray Gloss Black. As always, comments and critiques are welcome. I will post PDF’s of these patterns in New Pattern Announcements.

Absolutely great work on the cutting and frames. Dad's Garage reminds me of the posters of the 40's and 50's.

Yep very cute! Well done! sculpturing and paint work is just fantastic.

I've previously posted about mounting a dremel drill press holder above my work bench upside down. I've been using mine for about 3 years now without any problems for all my flat work progects. I've been able to do panels as large as 24 x36. Actual depth is just about 11 inches. (Limited only by where the upside down mounting surface is off the wall.) Another Limitation is only the depth of material to be drilled because of the dremel high speed. When drilling 3/4 material with a longer small bit the bit tends to burn and not plung perectly straight throug the wood. However for 1/8 and 1/4 panels it is more than accurate enough using the very small bits for 2/0 blades. The dremel drill press is not a heavy duty piece, but has been working well for me. However, my original small dremal tool I was using did burn up. I replaced it with a little more pricy model which has been going strong for quite a while now. Here is a copy of the previous post I made: This is my solution! The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide. However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45. I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning. After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result. There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal. The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary. I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top. Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed. From the bit to the wall is about 11" so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide. I have two Dremel Rotary Tools so this one will be a dedicated drill for drilling blade holes, although the tool holder body can be rotated up to 90 degrees and used for other operations. I don't think I will be braking as many drill bits with this setup. I located it near the rear corner of the workbench so it should not interfere tooooooo much with other workbench usage. As the say, where there is a will there is a way. And when space is at a premium, you have to think outside the box and make evey square inch count.

I can for just the sailboat. Watch for it in a little while.

First is a 11” x 12” Russ Beard Pattern that I cut well over a year ago, simply called “Leopard”. Coloration was done using Artis Oil paints at that time. However, I was not happy with how it looked, so it sat on the shelf. I only revisited it a short time ago and with some improved painting skills I have developed and a little work with the paint brush, I believe it now looks better. Its been some time so I’m guessing, but I think the cut panel is 5/32” solid core Maple which has now been affixed to a painted black ¼” BB ply backer. The Fame is 1 3/4” Pine with a black Lacquer finish. I think he has his eyes on you! The second is a “Wile E Coyote – Standing” image I converted into an 11”x 17” scroll saw pattern. Since my previous “Wile” project left my collection for a new home rather quickly, I decided to fill the void with another, but of course, a different pose. The cut panel is 5/32” solid core Birch, hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The frame is also 1 3/4” pine with a primed and painted gloss Black Finish. The third is also of a free, non-credited image, simply called “Sketch of a Sailboat” that I converted into an 11” x 17” scroll saw pattern. I found this image, although very raw, very intriguing and works very well as a piece of Scroll Saw Art. The cut panel is 5/32" solid core Maplet hat was left natural and only the backer was hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The frame is once again 1 3/4” pine with a primed and painted gloss Black Finish. All cuting was done with various Pegas regular and spiral blades and all assembled panels were protected with multiple coats of clear Gloss Lacquer. My work has been coming in groups because I tend to leave the frame making until I can do more than one. Comments and critiques always welcome.

If you are jumping in here please go back to top and see the Updated original post. I think you will like the lamp a lot better now.

Why don't you cut them and let your wife put on the hooks. Win Win. BTW, well done!

Posted in "New Pattern Announcements".

Gus, At Home depot I found; Candlelabra socket base (comes two in a pack), 8 ft lamp cord with inline switch (separate items), three inch nipple (two pack), and a package of nuts. Any light bulb with the small candlelabra screw base will fit. Ten watt night lite, clear xmas bulb or any of the fancy Candlelabra bulbs (LED or incandescent) will work. The smallest 110 Volt LED I couold find in HD is 25W Candlelabra bulb that is abou 2 1/2" tall. Small Xmas light type Socket and Bulb may be available on-line.

I found this free Dragonfly Pattern on-line and realized it would make a good box type Nightlight Lamp. I used solid 1/4” thick Red Oak for the body and connectors, and 1/2” thick (planed down from ¾” thick material) for the Top and Base. The four body sides are 5 1/2” wide x 11 1/2” tall and were stack cut with Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. All chamfering and mitering was done on the table saw. The Top sits loose on the top of the body to allow access for bulb changing. The natural Red Oak color was darkened with one quick wipe on wipe off coat of Minwax Red Oak stain. All stained surfaces were finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer prior to installation of the Amber Cast 1/8” thick Translucent Acrylic panels. The panels are held in place with small dabs of Gel Superglue. I originally intended to use a 25W LED bulb but found that it was too bright. I replaced it with 10W clear nightlight lamp bulb. However, I plan to add some translucent velum sheets, attached with spray adhesive, to the inside face of the Amber panels and see if the lamp has a nicer soft glow with the 25W bulb. I was very unhappy with the much too transparent plexi with either the 10W or 25W bulb. Applied Translucent Velum using spray adheasive to the inside on each side. Now with the 25W LED Candlelabra bulb the glow is much softer amd you can't see inside. Next time I make a lamp like this I have to remember to apply the velum to the plexi before inserting them . Comments and critiques always welcome.