FrankEV

I did a very quick cut of a Horse Head pattern I converted from a free stencil I found on-line. The cut panel is 5/32 x 10 x10 solid core Maple mounted on a ¼ x12x12 Cherry Backer that I stained dark with Minwax Honey. I added the “Mr Ed”(*) to the pattern, and yes I had to glue in the center of the “d”. The Frame is ¾” wide pine, primed and then painted with Glidden Max-Flex Chocolate Pretzel/Satin. It is not the Tan I was hoping for. Their colors are strange! Everything was competed in just two days. Comment and critique always welcome. * I recently delt with a Hearing Aid Specialist that treated me very well. When he mentioned his name he made a point of saying it was “Ed”… like “MR. ED”. The Show and the horse popped into my head and just had to cut a piece for him to display in his facility. Could not quite get a good likeness of the actual horse from the show, but thought this simple horse head pattern would do. I have a follow up appointment with him tomorrow and will give it to him then. EDIT 7/22: He loved it. Hung it up right next to the reception desk. I was pleased.

That is really outstanding!!!!!

While looking for a different color for painting a Frame, I found this Glidden product in HD and tried it on a lark. I’m happy to state that it pretty much does what it states on the can. “Dries withing 5 minutes (to the touch - my words) without drips or streaks.” It also states “Flawless Finish” which could be questionable, but quite close to the truth. It also states it is a Interior/exterior Paint + Primer. I found doing a good sanding job and applying a primer (I use either Krylon or Rustoleum) prior to applying the finish Glidden product makes for even a nicer finish. It should be noted that you must be careful not to apply it in too heavy coats. The paint lays very flat without puddleing, and because it dries quickly it allows multiple coats to be applied rather quickly. However, although it dries quickly to the touch, it takes a day or so to become hard and durable. Very easily marred before then. The available colors were limited at HD and the color names are quite unique, to say the least. I personally like the product better than most other spray can paint brands mainly because of the quick dry time. Makes finishing a frame a lot quicker. Doing a little research, I found that there are more colors and finishes available, that I did not see on the shelf in HD. Herfe is a link to HD Glidden products: https://www.homedepot.com/collection/paint/glidden-max-flex-spray-paint/Family-320730528 Hope some of you find this review useful.

Adding to my flower themed Art pieces, I was able to convert this illustration of Iris Flowers Into a scroll saw pattern. Due to the proportions of the illustration my pattern became 9” wide by 19” tall. The cut panel is 5/32 solid core Maple Ply mounted on a Hand Painted ¼” x 12” x 22” BB Ply backer. Again, Artist Acrylics were used to do the coloring. Most of the cutting was done with a Pegas #1 MGT R Blade except for a few small cuts that were done with a #0 Spiral. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Because I planned to paint the Frame, I used good grade of ¾” Pine, instead of my usual Poplar, that I ripped down to 1¾” widths. More cost effective. The well sanded frame was primed painted and then finished painted with Glidden rattle can Max-Flex all surface ultra-durable finish, this time a color called Black Elegance (really a dark Grey)/satin. Comments and critique always welcome. FYI, I will post my review of the Glidden product in the TOWN SQUARE/ GENERAL SAW SAWING topic.

Yep, I see the joint. I know you are experimenting with using the floor samples, but the exposed edges ruins a very well cut, beautiful cross. Just my opinion but not sure the free samples is worth it as a nice selection of solid wood, to me, would be a much more appropriate choice.

Nicely cut and framed!

The only thing the User's Manual says about Maintenance is. and I quote: " After a period of time, the belt may be aging and relaxation, resulting in image printing offset. You can use a screwdriver and inner hexagonal wrench to adjust screws ath the two positions of the machine, so as to re-tighten the belt". Translation is not to well done! BTW, I discovered the white 'what ever you call it' thing is a felt tip pen but have no idea what the sponge thing in the cap is for.

Jumping on Ray’s thread with my story. My new NEJE Master 2 that I purchased from Walmart arrived yesterday. Assembled and mounted it on a board today. Setup was simple and the operating software installed without a hitch. However, the User's Manual would probably be more useful if it had been just printed in Chinese. The English instructions are for the pits. Section on focusing the Laser beam made absolutely no sense. I think I have it figured out, but only because I watched some videos. Smallest sharp laser dot is the best. Then the section on inserting a file was useless. I only figured out by trial and error how to insert a file. It wasn’t obvious to me that I only needed to click on the words in the middle of the box. Haven't gotten into any of the additional software yet. Might not really need it. I was able to make a Logo image in Inkscape and exported it as a PNG file. I was able to load it (after a lot of experimenting) and figured out how to locate it in the 150 x 150 mm area the laser operates within. I was then also able to add it to 'My Collection' for regular use. This is all the plans I have for using the engraver at this time, so I do not need to raise it up as all my panels are basically 3/8" thick, which is right in the focus zone with the unit just mounted directly on the board. I have spent the better part of the day running test to find the combination of setting that I like the best. For now, I'm running it in the 'Fast' mode, with Laser Power at 30%, Burning Time of 20mS and Laser Brightness at Default. I set my Logo image size to 120mm wide which gives a vertical height of 48mm based on my image proportions. To allow the image to be placed in the back lower right side of a panel, I rotate the image and lower it to the bottom of the 150 x150 mm box. I have already marked out on the mounting board where the lower right corner of a panel should be positioned. It takes about 40 minutes to engrave the Logo. I’m happy, since the engraved Logo looks a lot more professional than the burning pen I was using. The marks locate the back bottom right corner of a panel. This is how in comes out, ready for a felt pen signature and a hand written year numeral. The bolt is jut there to hold up the end of the test panel as the lose panel underneath was smaller than the test panel. EDIT: Hey Ray (or any one). Do you know what these items are for. Came with the Engraver, I think the black thing is for focusing and maybe the wood blocks and papers are for doing some testing, but have no Idea what the green plexiglas, brush and the 'what ever you call it' is for.

Very nicly done! Those parralel straight lines must have been a challenge I know I have done some cuts with similar lines and they are a bear to keep straight and difficult to keep the cuts on the lines. Again, good work!

[email protected] Thanks

No, just finished. I was thinking I might see if they wouild like to hang it on loan.

I live in Ormond Beach Florida. I found on-line, some very old B&W photos of famous places here in Ormond Beach, one of which is the Ormond Hotel from back in 1894. It is now called the “Ormond Heritage Condominium” but looks amazingly like it did in its heyday. Here is the Photo. I posted a copy of this photo on 6/19 in Pattern Central/ Pattern Requests with a request for someone to help me out with a pattern. Grampa (Paul) stepped up and produced a Pattern for me. Thank you, Paul. From his pattern I was able to modify it a little (well maybe a bit more than a little). Paul’s pattern is a very simplistic representation of the hotel in the photo as the photo is very grainy and lacked sharp detail. So, I decided to take some artistic liberties to enhance the image to present a credible image while trying to maintain the original image of the hotel itself. Using Paul’s pattern overlayed on the Photo I was able to add lot of details to the trees and bushes, even adding some Palm leaves so the tree trunks look like trees and not poles. There are some trees in the photo on the right side that interfered with view of the building so I eliminated them for clarity. The cutting is 5/32”x12”x18” Solid Core Maple Ply mounted on a1/4” thick BB Ply backer simply painted with Krylon rattle can spray Flat Black. I used various Pegas spiral and regular blades to cut the pattern. As none of the line work was straight, it was necessary to take a lot of liberties during the cutting. Most apparent is the baluster spacing of the Hand Railing. I protected the assembled panel with multiple coats Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 2 ¾” wide 5/4” thick pre-primed molding. I used a frame making router bit to produce the profile. The cutting was not as good as I expected and although I did a lot of both machine and hand sanding, the defects became obvious (in the photo) after the frame was primed and painted. From a viewing distance it doesn’t look tooooo bad. The Paint is a Glidden MAX-FLEX rattle can spray product called Phantom Hue (Silver) in a Satin finish that dries quickly and lays very flat and is supposed to be very durable. Critiques and comments welcome.

Did you do the delicate patterns on the platters using an engraver or a wood burning pen?

If you read any of my posts you know I color my work, primarily with Artist Acrylic Paints. I would be happy to give your process a try. So if you still need testers, please feel free to send my the patterns and info. The Geese look intesting. Thanks

I learning about colors. However, I try to use something to go by to select my colors. In this case the Illustration is in color and I basically did what the original artist did. In other cases I will look at photos of the real subjects. The hardest part is blending the paints to get the colors correct. Not alwasys easy. Yes I do use Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner before staining. It is supposed to reduce blochyness, but does not always work. That is one reason I keep trying new stain colors. This Fruitwood color worked well with the Poplar. First coat brushed on and then wiped off in about two minutes, let dry well. Second was a thin coat, applied uniformaly with a foam brush and allowed to dry throughly. No bloches or streaks. It was the first time I used a throw-a-way foam brush to apply stain...It may be the trick to uniform application. Gonna have to try with some of the dark stains that tennd to be blochy and streak.

Had to look this word up. Informal Ausie word usage for "something Impressive". I'll take it...thank you!

Converted a H Donovan illustration to a 11’ x 17” scroll saw pattern. Cut panel is 5/32” solid core Maple mounted on a hand painted ¼” thk BB Ply backer. Hand painting done using Artist Acrylic Paints. Panel cutting done using Pegas #0 spiral blades. Assembled panel is protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar stained with Minwax Fruitwood and finished with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Tried the Fruitwood stain, a new color for me. I like the way it looks for a light color frame on some nice clear pieces of Poplar that I used. As always, comments and critiques welcome and appreciated.

I've looked at this option from time to time. It is a good option but it is also a custom made item if you want it to include a signature, which I was looking for. The custom irons are not cheap. My other problem with the Iron is I like to date my work, so I would still have to use a burning pen to add the date, Have no idea what a small laser engraver cost is but it may not be too much more than a custom Iron, and it can be used for other supplemental details on a scroll piece. I have also entertained this idea but just have not done any research, so answers to rays question would be welcomed by me and others as well, I'm sure. Update Edit: I watched Steves Video and did some research. And yes, a small engraver is less expensive than a custom Branding Iron. KKmoon makes a small engraver that lists for around $113 that has great reviews but, unfortunately, it is so popular that it is Out Of Stock and there is no indication when if will be available. It appeared to be the perfect choice for my wants. So the next choice is the unit Steve reviewed, but no longer avaialble on Amazon. Howwver, I did find it available at Walmart: KKmoon 7000mw Desktop Engraver Portable Engraving Carving Machine Mini Carver DIY Mark Printer for Metal Engraving and Deep Wood Engraving and Cutting $219.99 +tax. There are a ton of laser engraving products, but I kind of liked the fact this unit works with Inkscape. And the unit can be position on any size board. I want the engraver to predominently add my Logo,Signature and Date to the back of my panels. I've been using a burning pen in the past, but would like to have something more professional looking. So, I decided to jump in and order it. There is a 30 day return policy if I don't like it.

I posted the pattern on Feb 11 in New Pattern Announcements

Like wombatie I was expecting to see a cutting of a Ford Tbird. Like this a lot more. Great cutting and coloring. The black border around the assembled panel works very well. The frame is well done. How did you do the coloring? Spray cans?

WOW, what more can I say. As said earlier you are a better (more patient) man than me for sure.

I can not speak to using any kind of indoor living space being used to do scroll saw work. From my experience though, even a small amount of dust will penetrate every nick and granny and stick to any and all surffaces whether hard or soft. Even deligent regular cleaning will not eliminate all of the dust and if you expect guest to use the space for sleeping the wood sawdust smell and finite particles will be difficult for them to handle. As a option, if you plan to down size, a small self owned/rented home with a bit of property would be more appropriate to aquire than a apartment or condo. when I moved to Florida I gave up a large house including a large seperate beautiful dedicated woodworking shop for a small home (actuallyjust half of a duplex) on a tiny piece of property. My home now does not even have a garage. I missed my shop and wanted to be able to do some woodworking and specifically got interested in scrolling. Even on my small piece of property I was able to install an 8'x12' Suncast Plastic shed I purchased from Lowes and turned it into my shop. I'm able to have a small dewalt contractors table saw, a small workbench, a sanding station with a bench combination belt/disk sander, a roll around Router table and my Scroll Saw. I also have tucked away in a corner a Craftsman 12" planer on a little roll around table. I do a lot of the table saw and planer work outside the double doors of the shed. I can only do short cross cuts and panel cutting on the table saw while inside. I actually have two sheds, the second being for my garden tools and storage. it is located 6" away from my shop shed. I was abel to install a small dust collector in the garden shed. I insntalled collection gates from each piece of equipment and hoses that are piped from the shop to the collector in the other shed. This keeps the noise of the collector to a minimum in the shop. All the above being said, my shop is very dusty all the time but I am happy to be able to do small wood working and scroll saw projects with out dust in my home (except what I carry in on my cloths that my lady always yells at me for). I can't imagine an indoor space that could be kept clean of the dust created by the saws, routers and sanding equipment we use regularly in our hobby. Then there is finishing to daal with..... I could go on and on. Hope this helps!

Not quite. The pics can be taken anywher you have enough light and/or even with a flash. However, bounce back can be a problem when using Flash. If you shoot outdoors overcast days are the best to minimize harsh shadows. What I mean by a neautral background is something like White, Black or my preference Light Grey back drop paper you can get a Hobby Lobby (or a Photo store) for very little cost. Comes in Rolls in various widths. For our kind of work the 48" or 54" wide is more than enough. For small items , like yor crosses, a piece of poster board would also work well. Just make sure it has a dull sheen and not high gloss that will reflect the light source.

Very well done. Whose pattern? One of the nicest cat patterns I've seen.

This Image has appeared in many Pinterest searches. Rather simple conversion to a 12” x12” scroll saw pattern. The cut panel is 5/32 solid core ply Birch (if I remember correctly) that I painted Black with Krylon rattle can All-in-one Flat Black Paint and Primer. The backer is ¼” BB Ply that I beached for a few days to get a very bright light wood “Moon” color that was then hand painted in the Grey and White areas using Artist Acrylic paints. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 Spirals and #3 MGT R. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Stain and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Wipe-on Clear Satin Poly. Comments and critiques always welcome.