FrankEV

Very nice! Well done! The blue PPE works.

It would take a long time for me to collect enough sawdust just from scrolling to be of consern as to where to dispose of it. Small amounts of pure sawdust can be turned into gardens and will actually improve poor soils. However, since I do generate a lot of chips and much heavier sawdust from my router and tablesaw when ripping and profiling wood for frames I, like dgman, will also include it with the yard waste to be picked up by our waste removal service. Most of the wood scraps I generate will have glue and patterns still attached so they just go into the waste (garbage) bin for our weekly pickup. Now when I had my woodworking shop in NC and made furniture and did a lot of turnings, my collection system could fill up a heavy duty 40 gal garbage bag in just a matter of a few days or sometimes even just a few hours. I would keep Walnut out of the collector and the multiple bags of sawdust would go to a local Horse farm almost every week or so.

That is just a wonderful cutting job. Extreamly well done and framed beautifully. If you haven't already, do not forget to sign and date it on the back so years from now your daughter will remember when it was made. Where is it going to hang? Your home or maybe her dorm room? Eventually I'm sure she will want to make it her own.

Sorry, I read your statement as being sarcastic. Just don't want anoyone to think they "HAVE" to do what I do. I kanda agree that a project is not really complete until someone hangs it for, or puts it on, display. A lot of my projects are not on display and they live in a box, so hopefully still to be completed.

PLEASE, that is not quite what I said. This is only MY IDEA of when a project is complete, especially when I post my work here in SVV and/or when I sell or give away a piece. And a professionally looking photo of the project, TO ME. is also a necessary part of a projects presentation, wether herein or in other mediums like FB or on a website. For me I enjoy, and prefer, seeing a well done fully finished project (the way it is intended to be displayed) rather than just the cutting.

I guess this is a game because all you can do is play with it! Nautlus by S. Good. Click through the sequence quickly and it looks like it is rotating

NIce simple well cut job. The table top easel presentation is also very nice.

Hey guy, I'm 78, shortly to be 79, and as they say, age is only a number...although my body says otherwise sometimes. I just make the presentation part of the project. I enjoy doing the scroll saw work, but find the result is a little anticlimatic unless it is put it in to a "finished" presentation. For portrait type cutting it must have a proper backer and be framed. Early on I started using store bought frames, but now find it is less expensive to make my own and I can customise it as appropriate and standard photo stock sizes is not a criteria. It is now just part of the project making routine. I did make myself a little photo booth out of coreform board and some cheap LED lamps that I use to shoot the pics. Usually use a black cloth back drop and shoot using a tripod to insure a good centered/squared pic that I then crop.

In between projects and looking for something different I decided to make a sign to hang on the outside of my little shop. Found a S. Good fretwork Welcome sign pattern that I used but changed the wording. Panel is 1/4” x 12” x 15” Walnut Solid Core Plywood and affixed to a 1/2" sanded plywood backer. I deepened the contrast by staining the panel with multiple coats of Minwax Walnut Stain. The script is called "Handwritten" that I have individual .svg files for each letter in upper and lower case. All cutting was done with Pegas #0 and #1 spiral blades. The panel is glued into a 3/4” wide Poplar frame that I rounded over on the Router and made a 1/4” wide x 3/4” deep rabbet to match the panel depth. I stained the frame with Minwax Honey Maple. After fully assembled, the sign was protected for outdoor use with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Polyurethane spray.

I forced myself to learn how to use spiral blades and very happy I did. They are my go to blades for a lot of my projects now. Cutting time is reduced significantly because you do not have to spin your work. All it takes is practice. Suggest you get a bird pattern (like an eagle, owl or hawk) that has a lot of holes in the body representing feathers and go at it with spiral blades. These patterns are very forgiving. Don't try to be toooo precise. Keep a light grip on the work panel and let your eyes control your hands. Don't try to force the blade path...think/visualize it. You will find you will follow the lines much easier. Also, it is not necessary to split the cut lines so rather try to keep the blade just inside the cut out rather than outside. it is much easier to shave some off but you can not put material back. Oh, and when parreleling an adjacent cut line....try not to look at it. Just look at the line you are cutting. It is like riding a bike or MC, you will tend to go where you are looking rather than staying on the line/path you want to follow. And once into a long cuts, keep moving as long as possible. if you stop along a cut line it is almost impossible to start again with out some buggering up of the line a little. I'm willing to bet that by the time you finish that first pattern you will well on your way to being well versed in the use of spiral blades.

Good work...like everything else, there is a learning curve.

Very nice.

I have tried the direct application of the spray adheasive to the wood to apply a pattern and then removal with mineral spirits. It works, but I find two things happen. One, adheasive is very difficult to remove completely requiring a significant amount of sanding and, Two, the mineral spirits actually change the color of the wood slightly, almost like a natural stain. I personally do not have any difficulty using the Duck Brand shelf liner I purchase at Walmart wich is much cheaper than using Blue Painters tape. Removal after cutting is not difficult as I sand my cut panel very well before applying the linner. After cutting, I need to do a bit of sanding on the rear side to clean up fuzzies, but little or none on the front side. And, I also often maintain the pattern attached to the panel until after the panel is affixed to the backer, especially whan I do coloring to the backer.

Simply awsome...as usual.

You make great patterns, but just wondering...when are you going to make some more of your great fretwok patterns like the Santa, Chineise Dragon and Eagle In Flag I did of yours? Might want to think about some of us more traditional scrollers that prefer the simpe, athough a lot more more intricate, one cut panel, portrait patterns.

Very nice and well done. Wondering how you plan to display it? Mount it on a backer?

Nicely done. If you plan to add a finish, please make sure it is a toxic free child friendly coating.

I know it was fustrating, but the end product is very well done. Had to look the name up to see who/what is was. Not an everyday name over here in the USA. The pine must have had been still wet with pine sap ozzinfg to surface causing the paint to bubble. Lumber yard pine is often still full of sap. An inexpensive wood like Poplar is a better choice for a backet if you want to use solid wood. Of course, plywood may have been a better choice as it is more stable and dry. Using a primer will also make a better paint job and may have prevented the bubbling.

Very well done! Botas pattern of the wise bird is really nice.

Love it. Nice cutting. I would be quite worried about the fragility of Red Oak for a wide open cutting like that.

Great Pattern, great cutting, great likeness.

Beautiful cut, but I totally agree with what wombatie said, the drastic grain coloration of Pine really distract from the cutting.

Cutting is great and the framing is well done. Your choice of wood...argh, to me, not so much. The deep tonal differences in the grain is distracting. I'm thinking ii is pine which is not generally thought of as good looking wood for scroll saw art. I know cost of wood is a factor but Maple, Birch or even a White Oak would have been much better choices. I believe that is why many of us use the BB Plywood or other solid core Plywood products. The grains of surface vaneers are much more appealing. Also, and this is just me and my very personal opinion, I'n not thrilled with thick wood cuts for portraits (faces or otherwise). The deep cuts, when looked at other then dead straight on, tend to distort the image.

Well done on the cutting. I want to say something about the subject, but just can't find the words.

This is a verion of what HRRick was talking about available from Lowes. Rated at 75#, but I know it will hold more as long as it is secured into a stud, Two can be used if the hanging piece is wide. I used two to hang a Booze rack which holds abut 20+ full size bottles of Licquer (mostly cordials if you must knnow). Has been on the wall almost 7 years with no problems. What is nice about this system is that it is nearly a flush mounting with no outward lean. If the back of the hanging pice can be routed out slightly it can be made perfectly flush. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-6-in-Hangman-Picture-Hanging-System/3058191